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Has anyone tried the resistors designed to 'fool' the air flow meters into thinking they are getting colder air than they actually are? These items are all over ebay and apparently just fit into the connectors to the flow meters.
 

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swltd said:
Has anyone tried the resistors designed to 'fool' the air flow meters into thinking they are getting colder air than they actually are? These items are all over ebay and apparently just fit into the connectors to the flow meters.
No need to fool them, give them a more accurate reading with an IATS relocation.

The thinking is that the Stock sensor gets heat soaked, and therefore gives a false reading.

Move the sensor into the airflow, IE in the Air filter box, just below the air filter, and the sensor will no longer suffer from heat soak.

But it really is only effective for stop start situations, as the heat soak returns to normal relatively quickly whilst driving normally.

So its great for Drag racing where the car sits for long periods of time. But no huge benefit for continual circuits.

I have the IATS. It seems to work well. There is loads of threads on it. UF Motorsports sell the "kit" for want of a better word for around $100 USD.

Regards MJ
 

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A few weeks ago I posted some from ebay.
Do a search under "cheap power"

Question: why not make it think its over heating so it adds more fuel and spark advance trying to cool itself down?
Wouldn't it be good to tap into the electric thermostat also?
 

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In those kits, the two wires that go to the air temp sensor.
 

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The ECUs stategy when the engine overheats would be unlikely to include more advance. It's more likely to back off advance as temperature goes too high. On a forced induction engine you might see some extra fuel modulated to bring combustion chamber temperatures down and on those with a knock sensor a corresponding advance reduction if the ECU detects detonation.

When drawing cooler denser air you would expect to see a marginal increase in fuelling coupled with a smidgen more advance , that is the basis of these resistor kits, they assume that in most places the calibration is conservative WRT to fuelling and advance.

Dave
 

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See post on your other similar thread. Forget about them and just get the IATS relocation kit.
:cheers:
 
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