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Discussion Starter #1
Hi All

I'm not sure if this is common knowledge, but was a surprise to me. I ordered a new key for my M5 (since I only got one with the car from the previous owner). The key arrived at the dealer and obviously needed to be programmed to the car. I was expecting a connection to the computer and at least half an hours worth of labour cost. But no...

The service rep hops into the car and preceded to do the following:

1) Get in and close drivers door
2) Open and close drivers door again
3) Insert old key into ignition and turn to position 1
4) Turn off and remove key
5) On the old key hold down the lock button (one in middle of key) and press the unlock button three times. You should hear the car lock.
6) Now take the new key and do the same. I.e hold down the lock button and press the unlock button three times. You should hear the car unlock - if you do it has worked.
7) Wait 30 seconds. Insert new key and see if car starts.

It did take two goes to get it to work on my car. It has also disabled the autolock feature for some reason, but this may be related to the fact that you can have different setups in the car for the different keys (the aircon temps were also different when I started the car with the new key)

Anyone else know about this? I think I got the sequence right - it happened rather fast and seems like he had done it a few times before.

This was also a brand new key from the factory so I don't know if it will work for an "eBay" key.
 

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Hi All

I'm not sure if this is common knowledge, but was a surprise to me. I ordered a new key for my M5 (since I only got one with the car from the previous owner). The key arrived at the dealer and obviously needed to be programmed to the car. I was expecting a connection to the computer and at least half an hours worth of labour cost. But no...

The service rep hops into the car and preceded to do the following:

1) Get in and close drivers door
2) Open and close drivers door again
3) Insert old key into ignition and turn to position 1
4) Turn off and remove key
5) On the old key hold down the lock button (one in middle of key) and press the unlock button three times. You should hear the car lock.
6) Now take the new key and do the same. I.e hold down the lock button and press the unlock button three times. You should hear the car unlock - if you do it has worked.
7) Wait 30 seconds. Insert new key and see if car starts.

It did take two goes to get it to work on my car. It has also disabled the autolock feature for some reason, but this may be related to the fact that you can have different setups in the car for the different keys (the aircon temps were also different when I started the car with the new key)

Anyone else know about this? I think I got the sequence right - it happened rather fast and seems like he had done it a few times before.

This was also a brand new key from the factory so I don't know if it will work for an "eBay" key.
this is the procedure for "coding" your key to the remote control, not to the car.

In addition to this procedure there is also a chip in your key that permits it to work only in your vehicle. That coding was done before the dealership received your key. In other words, don't expect to buy a key off EBay and get it to work with your car by following this procedure.

d-
 

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Hi All

I'm not sure if this is common knowledge, but was a surprise to me. I ordered a new key for my M5 (since I only got one with the car from the previous owner). The key arrived at the dealer and obviously needed to be programmed to the car. I was expecting a connection to the computer and at least half an hours worth of labour cost. But no...

The service rep hops into the car and preceded to do the following:

1) Get in and close drivers door
2) Open and close drivers door again
3) Insert old key into ignition and turn to position 1
4) Turn off and remove key
5) On the old key hold down the lock button (one in middle of key) and press the unlock button three times. You should hear the car lock.
6) Now take the new key and do the same. I.e hold down the lock button and press the unlock button three times. You should hear the car unlock - if you do it has worked.
7) Wait 30 seconds. Insert new key and see if car starts.

It did take two goes to get it to work on my car. It has also disabled the autolock feature for some reason, but this may be related to the fact that you can have different setups in the car for the different keys (the aircon temps were also different when I started the car with the new key)

Anyone else know about this? I think I got the sequence right - it happened rather fast and seems like he had done it a few times before.

This was also a brand new key from the factory so I don't know if it will work for an "eBay" key.

How much did you pay for the spare key?
I only got one key too when I bought my car, so I need to get an extra key also.
 

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this is the procedure for "coding" your key to the remote control, not to the car.

In addition to this procedure there is also a chip in your key that permits it to work only in your vehicle. That coding was done before the dealership received your key. In other words, don't expect to buy a key off EBay and get it to work with your car by following this procedure.

d-

exactly correct
 

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Discussion Starter #5
@DouglasABaker, indeed a good point. Apparently each car (not sure if only M5's or all BMW's) have 12 keys already cut and waiting for you at the factory. The local dealer had to first "block and bar" the missing key and then request one of the new keys. The chappie then did the coding thing to get it to work with the car.

Cost wise they are not cheap, but not the most expensive out there either. I guess I paid around $200 (local cost converted to USD)
 

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I just bought two new remote keys for my car at Seattle BMW - price was $443 for two keys, after tax, out the door. I think the non remote key was around $54, and the valet key was $32 or something like that.
 

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I've now received my new key (and also the thin plastic one as well, it's allready in my wallet).

A few points:
Plastic key went into ignition barrel and started engine. Key pattern and immobiliser code had been pre cut/coded by BMW before posting to the dealer.

The same was true of the new master key, it would start the car without any fiddling.

The procedure that was described in the link for coding the key to the car was used to get the wireless remote buttons on the key to work.

I was 5mins late arriving and the guys at the service desk were a bit slow in finding the parts, so by the time the key had been linked to the car, 'key memory' tested (and found to be not working) it was too late to use the diag to activate this feature.

I would have to return to get it done and it would cost about £50 +vat to have the feature switched on. I'll live without it for that much, it's only clicking in a particular box, seconds work!

HERE IS A LINK ABOUT THE AVAILABLE OPTIONS, it might help clear things up a bit.

I believe that the feature is activated in the same 'place' as the settings for the lights, windows, etc in the sss program. Am I correct in this?

Also (a bit ot) are DRL's the xneon dipped beams?
 

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@DouglasABaker, indeed a good point. Apparently each car (not sure if only M5's or all BMW's) have 12 keys already cut and waiting for you at the factory. The local dealer had to first "block and bar" the missing key and then request one of the new keys. The chappie then did the coding thing to get it to work with the car.

Cost wise they are not cheap, but not the most expensive out there either. I guess I paid around $200 (local cost converted to USD)
I do not think the keys are precut waiting for you somewhere. The computer can only allow a certain amount of keys though - I think around 10
 

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Are there many independent shops that can code the key options, or do you have to go to the dealer? I hate my DRLs, but everything else happens to be exactly how I want it and I don't want to pay the dealer $50+ just to cancel DRLs.
 

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Are there many independent shops that can code the key options, or do you have to go to the dealer? I hate my DRLs, but everything else happens to be exactly how I want it and I don't want to pay the dealer $50+ just to cancel DRLs.
They'd need an autologic or GT1. Dealer shouldnt charge but 1hour of labor to do that (and that's generous...takes all of 5 min to do)
 

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The are a limit of 10 reflashes allowed. There can only be 4 keys active at once. (and, you can deactivate lost keys, as well)
 

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The are a limit of 10 reflashes allowed. There can only be 4 keys active at once. (and, you can deactivate lost keys, as well)
I know this is a rehash...but then what happens? New CPU???

Does the "shark" injector and aftermarket tuning count as a "reflash"? How about recalls and SW updates from BMW?

I have never had a good picture in my mind of this issue
 

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Blockdoc ...

I am NOT talking from personal experience. I am only on my second "flash." (To correct unreadability of OBCII data for emissions testing.)

But, I have read in numerous places, mostly on this site, and which I tend to trust, that 10 is the maximum. After that, I'm not sure, but I would guess you would be buying a new "module" of some kind ???

Any BMW upgrades (like mine mentioned above) is counted, as are Shark and Dinan flashes, and such ... even reflashing back to stock for emissions purposes, I believe, is counted as a "flash."

At one time, 10 seemed like a lot, but now, with the reflashes required for emissions and all, it seems like too few.

Maybe Adam (ard) or Doug Baker can answer the question with some surety.

UPDATE: I just re-read your question. I don't believe the 10 key "reflashes" and the 10 DME "reflashes" are the same thing. But, then it is possible, and scary.
 
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The 10 keys that can be programed are a different matter then the DME.

Basically every key for the car has a different rolling table to comunicate with the EWS.
And only ten different tables are stored,hence the ten keys.

DME is more than ten reflashes until it locks and refuses to recieve new software via OBD.

But for that issue,there are nice workarounds possible:grinyes:
 

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Also to clarify, the maximum number of keys that can be duplicated pre-dates the electronics of the E39. BMW has had a policy for many years of a maximum lifetime number of keys which can be duplicated for any car. There are accounts of people with E32 and E34s who had to consider buying whole new keyed ignition assemblies and individual door locks (short of aftermarket generic keys) once this limit is reached. Obviously in the old days the electronics were in the key fob and it wasn't as crucial an issue.
 
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