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Discussion Starter #1
I am beginning to think my clutch may be on its way out as I can't get the car to even chirp the tires on a sprited 1-2 shift with DSC off and sport mode on. The engagement seems to be soft. I don't really notice slipping when accelerating while in gear. Is the clutch the most likely culprit here?

TIA
 

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Or MAF's, or something in the engine.

If your clutch doesn't slip in 3rd gear under full throttle or on a hard launch then you probably aren't making full power.

d-
 

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Or MAF's, or something in the engine.

If your clutch doesn't slip in 3rd gear under full throttle or on a hard launch then you probably aren't making full power.

d-
Sorry D how do you mean slip? I wouldnt want it to intentially slip.
 

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In this context "slip" means that your tachometer goes up without a corresponding increase in the speedometer.

OP mentioned he's think his clutch may be slipping, but that he can't feel it, because he can't spin your wheels in 1 or 2.

Try driving the car in 3rd at about 2500-3000 rpm under light throttle. Then nail it. If you don't see / feel / hear an increase in the rpms without an increase in speed, then your clutch is probably fine. A 2nd test is to firmly plant your foot on the brake while stopped, put the car in 5th, and slowly let the clutch out. The engine should just die out at the point of clutch engagement.

If these test ok, then you likely just aren't making all 400hp. Have you checked your MAF's?

d-
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I have replaced the MAFs, plugs, air filters and pre-cat O2 sensors within the last 1000 miles, so I think I'm OK there. I will try the two tests you mentioned for the clutch and see what happens. If it seems to pass those two tests OK I may need to get in dynoed to see what kind of numbers I'm getting.

Mike
 

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I can lay tire in first no problem. but as soon as I up shift to continue to go fast I red line no matter what gear I'm in and my speed does not increase like I think it should. My SES light is on and I did put in about a month ago K&N air filters. Which I now realize is a no no.

Clutch or maf's?

Jim
 

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Discussion Starter #8
OK, I did the two tests suggested by boardmember DouglassABaker and did not have bad results with either. When cruising along in 3rd at about 3000 rpm and then flooring it I got acceleration proportionate to the climbing of the tach needle and when at a stop with the brakes on firmly I let the clutch out slowly while in 5th and the engine stalled as the clutch pedal reached the engagement point. If that indicates that my clutch is OK, and I have replaced MAFs, plugs, air filters and pre-cat O2 sensors recently, where else should I look to see why the car isn't pulling as strong as I think it should?

I will probably schedule an appointment at the stealer or my local indy shop to have the car looked at and any stored fault codes read. I do not have any SES lights or other warnings, but unless I'm off base here, I expect that if I have DSC off and sport on I should be able to break the tires loose by flooring it as soon as the clutch is engaged in 1st and certainly get the tires to at least "chirp" when shifting into 2nd. I will also have them do a few dyno pulls to see what kind of power I'm getting, but in the meanwhile any advice from knowledgeable members on likely power robbing culprits would be appreciated.

Mike
 

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Hi Mike,

Interesting conundrum. What type of tires are you running? Stock width?

You should easily be able to break your tires free by hitting the gas in first (with clutch fully engaged!).

You've done all the normal things - I'm at a loss. Get your codes pulled (better yet - get a Peake!) and then you perform the dyno run, don't have a stealer do it (I doubt they will anyway). Make sure you get the printouts and then post them here.

Until then, without knowing any codes, and assuming you are running 93 octane, I'm out of reasons short of a dead cylinder...

d-
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
I'm running stock width Goodyear Eagle F1 GS-D3s as far tires. I'll either get the codes pulled or get a Peake tool and then go do 2 or 3 dyno pulls and post the charts. I am also running 93 octane and the car has an ECU tune done to it. (Shadowman/Conforti sw)

Hopefully it isn't something major or if it is it will be covered under CPO warranty. (CPO is the one reason I might go to the dealer to have the codes pulled.)

Thx,

Mike
 

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Discussion Starter #11
So I took the car to the local Indy shop that I use and had them look at it. Two different techs both drove the car and agree that it is way down on power. They told me that I seem to have excesive backpressure on my exhaust and the most likely culprit is failing cats. Since they s/b covered under the warranty (emission) they told me to take it to the dealer who can't get me in until next week. Hopefully it is as simple as them testing the backpressure, finding the cats to be failing/clogged and then replacing them under warranty. They pulled stored fault codes and the only thing they saw were some misfires on the driver side cylinder bank which is the side that they feel has the most backpressure.

Has anyone had success getting failing cats replaced under the emission warranty or CPO warranty?

The Indy shop couldn't even do my state inspection becasue they said it wouldn't pass the emission test.

Mike
 

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If it's your exhaust, might as well use this opportunity to upgrade. hehe
 

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Discussion Starter #13
If it is the cats and the dealer won't replace under warranty then it will be all the reason I need to put on SS headers and race cats. That should fix any exhaust bottlenecks. :M5launch:
 

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Discussion Starter #14
The saga continues...

I dropped the car off at the dealer on Monday to have them look into the performance issue and told them what the tech from the indy shop said about excessive exhaust backpressure. They called me back today and are saying that the problem is my clutch slipping and not the exhaust. They want $2254 to replace the clutch and another $1185 if they need to replace the flywheel.:eek:oohhh: Those prices seem insanely high to me.

I'm also wondering who I believe about what the real issue is. Is the dealer pointing at the clutch because they don't want to have to replace failing cats that are blocking my exhaust? The car has 50K miles on it so I'm not saying the clutch couldn't be going, but if it is slipping, it isn't very bad as I felt like it passed the two tests member DouglassABaker suggested.

For those who have had a clutch replaced, is this price reasonable?

I know a lot of people say to stick with the stock clutch, but at that price I could probably get a UUC or rogue unit and have it installed?

Thanks,

Mike
 

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Sorry guys, I'm new to the forum so hopefully this is an appropriate time to interject.

I just bought an M5 with a one year old UUC 11'' clutch upgrade, and my clutch just started slipping in 4th gear (tach climbs quickly.... speedometer doesn't).

I can't vouch for the previous owner's driving, but this seems pretty premature, don't know if I would recommend the UUC aftermarket.
 

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The saga continues...

I dropped the car off at the dealer on Monday to have them look into the performance issue and told them what the tech from the indy shop said about excessive exhaust backpressure. They called me back today and are saying that the problem is my clutch slipping and not the exhaust. They want $2254 to replace the clutch and another $1185 if they need to replace the flywheel.:eek:oohhh: Those prices seem insanely high to me.

I'm also wondering who I believe about what the real issue is. Is the dealer pointing at the clutch because they don't want to have to replace failing cats that are blocking my exhaust? The car has 50K miles on it so I'm not saying the clutch couldn't be going, but if it is slipping, it isn't very bad as I felt like it passed the two tests member DouglassABaker suggested.

For those who have had a clutch replaced, is this price reasonable?

I know a lot of people say to stick with the stock clutch, but at that price I could probably get a UUC or rogue unit and have it installed?

Thanks,

Mike
Yeah that is high. I paid $350 out of pocket to replace the clutch & flywheel. How, you ask? My extended warranty picked up the tab for the flywheel and labor.
 

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The saga continues...

I dropped the car off at the dealer on Monday to have them look into the performance issue and told them what the tech from the indy shop said about excessive exhaust backpressure. They called me back today and are saying that the problem is my clutch slipping and not the exhaust. They want $2254 to replace the clutch and another $1185 if they need to replace the flywheel.:eek:oohhh: Those prices seem insanely high to me.

I'm also wondering who I believe about what the real issue is. Is the dealer pointing at the clutch because they don't want to have to replace failing cats that are blocking my exhaust? The car has 50K miles on it so I'm not saying the clutch couldn't be going, but if it is slipping, it isn't very bad as I felt like it passed the two tests member DouglassABaker suggested.

For those who have had a clutch replaced, is this price reasonable?

I know a lot of people say to stick with the stock clutch, but at that price I could probably get a UUC or rogue unit and have it installed?

Thanks,

Mike
Clutch job is way high. Total including flywheel should be around $2500, less 10% if you are a BMWCCA member and they honor the discount.

Dealer invoice on the flywheel is around $750. You can pick up the clutch and flywheel for half of what the dealer would charge, getting the exact same parts. Do a search, someone even posted part numbers IIRC. Look for a thread something like "cheap parts".

An indy should be able to do the clutch for about $1500 including parts. It books for around 6-7 hours, a good mechanic experienced with this car can do it comfortably in 4 or 5 hours.

As to stock vs. upgrades, there have been a variety of experiences, not all good with aftermarket. Do some reading, but if the car is basically stock and you don't beat on it or take it drag racing, I suggest stock will work fine.
Regards,
Jerry
 

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If you have CPO try to get the clutch replaced at the dealer. I am on my way to go pick mine up right now. The clutch and flywheel were just replaced for the total sum of $0 to me. CPO to the rescue! :)

As an aside, try to get a tech to take a ride with you to point out the issue first hand. Be buddy-buddy during the drive and you'd be surprised what kind of help they can be getting stuff done under warranty for you. YMMV.

Eric
 

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Discussion Starter #19 (Edited)
I did try to get it covered under CPO, but the SA told me that is one of the specifically excluded items so it would be on my dime. I did check with two of the local Indy shops I have used in the past and at least got the price down to $1700 for clutch and $2600 if the flywheel needs to be replaced. Both prices are before CCA discount, but the discount will only be on the labor so I hopefully $100 - $130 off those numbers and it also includes replacing the pivot pin, release fork, input shaft sleeve, etc.

I think I have read every post on the board about clutch repairs. :confused3 I really thought of doing it myself as I can get clutch and all other little parts to replace for about $300 and if necessary the flywheel for about $450, but I figured it would be a PITA by myself and the car would be tied up for at least a week or maybe two since I would only have the weekend to work on it and I don't have a lift or trans jack. Since it is my daily driver that's a little tough to do.

I should have the car back late tomorrow or early Thursday with a new clutch. The toughest part will be going easy for those first 1000 shifts while breaking it in!

Mike
 

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I'd be more than happy to copy my invoice for you to show the dealership that it is indeed an item that has been covered.

I just got back home and I have to say there is a noticeable difference in feel for the better. Everything seems to have smoothed out as well. Let me know if I can help you out. Can't hurt anyway.

Eric
 
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