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Discussion Starter #1
ok guys here goes... i just got my beast a week ago (i know, pics coming soon) and i am noticing what i would precieve to be some clutch slip... laying down the hammer in 1st and 2nd is no problem but then in 3rd in RPMs above 4500 at WOT the rpms shoot up wit no change in speed... so for the days after i consciencely paid attention wit shifting rpms and clutch engagement and no noticable slipping?!... but then last night when i tryed to dump the clutch and light em up the rpms shot up thru first and second... but no noticable slippage in little to mild throttle... i did a search and found many theads indicating that the clutch is on its way out... but my car only has 36K miles on it... what gives?????:dunno:
 

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You have no idea how the previous owner drove it, and that's a big factor. Looking at the service history of mine, the first clutch change came at just 14k miles. Then another one at 35k, I think.
 

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As the other posters indicated, clutch replacement in these cars is not uncommon. I'd plan on replacing it soon.
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
i just wanted to be sure that this was the problem since i see alot of post on here about owners beasts with 100k miles and the original clutch... i mean i knew it was clutch slippage the minute it happened but i guess i didn't want to admit it to myself because when i did a 60 miles test drive wit the car, i found no slippage at all... i was trying to convince myself that i had my foot slightly on the clutch... lol... but i will be pricing it out and getting it done within the next week or two...
 

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i just wanted to be sure that this was the problem since i see alot of post on here about owners beasts with 100k miles and the original clutch... i mean i knew it was clutch slippage the minute it happened but i guess i didn't want to admit it to myself because when i did a 60 miles test drive wit the car, i found no slippage at all... i was trying to convince myself that i had my foot slightly on the clutch... lol... but i will be pricing it out and getting it done within the next week or two...
It's the clutch ... REMEMBER, not to hit the loud pedal (other than for rev matching) UNTIL AFTER your left foot is off of the clutch pedal. These cars are NOT meant to be dragsters.

Also, DO NOT REST YOUR FOOT ON THE CLUTCH PEDAL. EVER!
 

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Discussion Starter #7
It's the clutch ... REMEMBER, not to hit the loud pedal (other than for rev matching) UNTIL AFTER your left foot is off of the clutch pedal. These cars are NOT meant to be dragsters.

Also, DO NOT REST YOUR FOOT ON THE CLUTCH PEDAL. EVER!
yes i know... i was trying to tell myself i had my foot resting on the clutch... but i know better then that... i just feel like ive kinda been had in a way that i could have gotten the car for less money or had the previous owner replace the clutch first... oh well sh!t happens... is there a DIY clutch replacement thread on the board??... i know how to do it but i would just like to have the extra info to go wit the job... thanks guys!!
 

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yes i know... i was trying to tell myself i had my foot resting on the clutch... but i know better then that... i just feel like ive kinda been had in a way that i could have gotten the car for less money or had the previous owner replace the clutch first... oh well sh!t happens... is there a DIY clutch replacement thread on the board??... i know how to do it but i would just like to have the extra info to go wit the job... thanks guys!!
Clutch is a known weak spot, don't worry about it.

Do a search, there was a discussion about getting the same parts as OE much cheaper in the aftermarket. A good indy can do the clutch, there is no magic to it. Replace disc, pressure plate, flywheel, throwout bearing, shift fork and probably the rear main seal (as long as the tranny is out, but make sure the mechanic is careful in seating the rear main seal).

Make sure you check the board, or your owners manual about proper break in after the clutch is changed out. From memory, 800-1000 shifts, moderate speeds, somewhere around 600-1000 miles depending on how you drive.
Regards,
Jerry
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Clutch is a known weak spot, don't worry about it.

Do a search, there was a discussion about getting the same parts as OE much cheaper in the aftermarket. A good indy can do the clutch, there is no magic to it. Replace disc, pressure plate, flywheel, throwout bearing, shift fork and probably the rear main seal (as long as the tranny is out, but make sure the mechanic is careful in seating the rear main seal).

Make sure you check the board, or your owners manual about proper break in after the clutch is changed out. From memory, 800-1000 shifts, moderate speeds, somewhere around 600-1000 miles depending on how you drive.
Regards,
Jerry
thanks jerry... yea i plan on doin it myself... ive done it twice on my LX 5.0 mustang... i was just looking for all the little intracacies of the M5 clutch replacement and a step by step instruction type of thing.. like what normally needs replacement and the easiest and most efficient way to get it done... which i found by searching... can anybody recommend an online source for and OEM clutch kit at a nice price??... cause i haven't been around the board that long and don't really know who to buy from... and would it be worth it for an after market performace clutch, b/c ive been reading in some other threads that some people weren't pleased with some of them.... thanks in advance...:thumbsup:
 

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Discussion Starter #10
p.s. i think when i get to it in the next couple weeks im gonna put in a short throw and exhaust while it's all apart...
 

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Clutch is a known weak spot, don't worry about it.

Do a search, there was a discussion about getting the same parts as OE much cheaper in the aftermarket. A good indy can do the clutch, there is no magic to it. Replace disc, pressure plate, flywheel, throwout bearing, shift fork and probably the rear main seal (as long as the tranny is out, but make sure the mechanic is careful in seating the rear main seal).

Make sure you check the board, or your owners manual about proper break in after the clutch is changed out. From memory, 800-1000 shifts, moderate speeds, somewhere around 600-1000 miles depending on how you drive.
Regards,
Jerry
+1

... and, unless you have other specific needs, buy an OEM one.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
i was also just doin some reading by way of search and found that i might have just glazed the surface of the clutch and to drive it mildly until i wear the glaze off??... i really don't know... is there anyway to tell if the clutch is almost out of comission or just glazed??
 

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ok guys here goes... i just got my beast a week ago (i know, pics coming soon) and i am noticing what i would precieve to be some clutch slip... laying down the hammer in 1st and 2nd is no problem but then in 3rd in RPMs above 4500 at WOT the rpms shoot up wit no change in speed... so for the days after i consciencely paid attention wit shifting rpms and clutch engagement and no noticable slipping?!... but then last night when i tryed to dump the clutch and light em up the rpms shot up thru first and second... but no noticable slippage in little to mild throttle... i did a search and found many theads indicating that the clutch is on its way out... but my car only has 36K miles on it... what gives?????:dunno:
kindanutz,


Unfortunately the undersized 9.45 inch OEM clutch design cannot tolerate much long-term abuse and high RPM driving. Upon extended slipping during clutch engagement the organic disk lining can overheat and glaze. This causes permanent gradual loss of the disk coefficient of friction which in turn generates excessive slipping on high RPM driving. That is why we have engineered an all around larger 10.5 inch E39 M5 Power clutch using a carbon semi-metallic disc which cannot glaze and can handle very high temperatures. Amazingly this material also provides a smooth OEM pedal engagement feel with no chatter or vibrations. We have also combined the CNS Racing Clutch kit with a high clamp pressure plate and dualmass flywheel to provide a quiet operation with no gearlash or rollover noise. Our design objective was to provide a clutch kit that can handle the long-term power to weight requirements of the E39 M5. This in turn saves our customers money on parts and labor by not having to reinstall the undersized OEM or aftermarket clutches multiple times.

www.CNSracing.com


 

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Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
well fellas it's official my clutch is shot and im gonna need a new one fast... the car drives fine under what i would call slow acceleration, but this is not what i bought the beast for... i need to transfer all 400hp and 370ft/lb torque to the wheels without any problems... i am more then interest in buying a CNS clutch, im desparate... acouple of things have to know before i buy within the next day or two... is this really what im looking for??... an oversized clutch and dual weight flywheel... is the CNS a SAC??... and will it last me... if anybody has recently purchased one please let me know your opinions... as i don't want to have to keep replacing OEM clutches if they are really not up to par... and is the group buy still available??
 

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well fellas it's official my clutch is shot and im gonna need a new one fast... the car drives fine under what i would call slow acceleration, but this is not what i bought the beast for... i need to transfer all 400hp and 370ft/lb torque to the wheels without any problems... i am more then interest in buying a CNS clutch, im desparate... acouple of things have to know before i buy within the next day or two... is this really what im looking for??... an oversized clutch and dual weight flywheel... is the CNS a SAC??... and will it last me... if anybody has recently purchased one please let me know your opinions... as i don't want to have to keep replacing OEM clutches if they are really not up to par... and is the group buy still available??

CNS should be able to tell you, but I doubt they have the SAC, it is one of the problems with the OEM setup.

PM RufM5, he has the CNS kit.

Regards,
Jerry

P.S. Here is the thread regarding cheap parts if you go OE...
http://www.m5board.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=110474&highlight=cheap+parts+flywheel
 

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My parts supplier sells a OEM LUX clutch kit for $337 but before ordering one I did a search and found the exact kit for $215 + $25 shipping on ebay. Its a company called Gripforce out of CA. Got it in today and will change it soon. But I too am looking for a thread that might clue me in on any out of the ordinary things to look out for. and do I need the self centering clutch stab BMW part ct1012?
Thanks
 
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