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Discussion Starter #1
A few months ago I had the clutch replaced after it failed catastrophically and left me by the side of the road in true M5 clutch failure style...

I've not been happy with the shift ever since, with the shift indicator flashing and a seemingly excessive shift time at lower RPMs even in S5/6. I had it back to the dealer with this and even after I went out in the car with their chief mechanic the advice was that this can be normal.

I am now getting a whirring noise when manoeuvring that sounds to me (at least from my experience with other cars) like a clutch release bearing sound - when they changed the clutch they also replaced the flywheel. I am wondering if the CRB could still be a issue after they changed both the clutch and flywheel. Ay advice welcome - thanks, Steve
 

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my understanding is they should have replaced the bearing/bush when they replace the clutch/fly.. what is the mileage on the car? over 30k and high chance the bearing/bush were also damaged... incidently, were you experiencing any noticable signs leading up to the clutch failure? what was the cause of the failure?
 

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I think the issue is whether or not the CRB was installed properly which would include proper lube. Seems to be a common issue, do a search.
 

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I think the issue is whether or not the CRB was installed properly which would include proper lube. Seems to be a common issue, do a search.
i had my bearing/bush replaced a couple of weeks ago and was told no lube was added. i mentioned the fact on forums the consensus is to lube the item and why they did not.. the technician informed me that BMW did not instruct them to do so and his personal opinion is also not to lube the component. who to believe?!!
 

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They should have bloody lubed it!!!!!!!! The reason for the failure is the lack of lube. Take the car back mate, get them to justify the no-lube policy and counteract it with info off here and PH. The lube is actually a specific part number for that purpose too. They make me sick.

OP, do a search fo god sake. Ive just done a mass of research regarding this issue and have just had my clutch, fly, bearing and bush replaced under warranty - damaged bearing and bush due to lack of lube. All the info is on here!
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I did not experience any problems before it failed and left me stranded waiting for a low loader.

I have read the threads about the bearing grease with interest. I guess my question was is that bearing replaced when the clutch/flywheel is replaced. It may be that the new clutch just has slightly different characteristics than the old one but to me the changes are not as crisp. I also am finding that the auto blip on downshifts is not quite where it should be. A racing driver who was piloting my car recently also commented on this.

It's going in for MOT next week so I will ask them about the bearing etc then.

Thanks
Steve
 

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Try an SMG reset when youre next on the motorway. Might help smooth things out for you.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
ecain

Thanks - just read your post after I submitted mine. I was aware of the issues re: greasing but I wasn't sure if it should have been replaced when the clutch/flywheel was replaced. I can't find the answer to that for sure on searching but it sounds like they should have done.

I'll have a more detailed look over the weekend and talk to the dealer on Monday.

Cheers
 

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Part of the clutch change is to replace the bearing - period. The clutch comes as a kit: clutch pack, bearing and fitting / adjustment kit. If you buy the clutch as a kit then the bearing is not greased and needs greasing, however if you buy the bearing seperately it comes greased. Thus the rule is that if it comes dry - grease it. If it comes greased - make sure its greased enough.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Update

Had the car in to the stealer today - their M-power specialist tech (they do see quite a few M-cars at my dealer to be fair) took some time to chat with me. His view was that all have slightly different characteristics but he did seem to take the point about the throttle blips being out of sync. He stated that the CRB would have been replaced as part of the clutch/flywheel job and said it would have been lubed - but his take on this discussion is that if it is lubed too much it will pick up particulate matter and make early failure more likely!

Anyway, they fiddled with the electronics by "resetting" the clutch electronically (they say that pulling back both of the paddles is a fairly useless exercise) and charged me fifty quid for investigating it. On the short drive home it does seem a bit better and the downshift blips certainly seem to be improved.

I do object to paying the investigation fee especially as they fitted the clutch only last year but one has to pick one's battles I guess...

Thanks for all the advice folks. ;)

Steve
 

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I just had this happen to me. Beast was down for the past 2 weeks to diagnose and replace ECU. Finally running again, my mechanic takes it for test drive and hears loud bang while shifting. Went to shop after work as they had my tranny out and showed me exactly how a rivet was worn down and eventually snapped off and bent the flywheel.
 

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my understanding is they should have replaced the bearing/bush when they replace the clutch/fly.. what is the mileage on the car? over 30k and high chance the bearing/bush were also damaged... incidently, were you experiencing any noticable signs leading up to the clutch failure? what was the cause of the failure?
In the morning I started hearing a clicking noise while accompanied with the normal buzzing sound of the smg transmission priming itself for driving. the clicking sound continued randomly at various points, when I was unlocking my car and the smg was priming.

2 days later, while driving in D3 at s3 around 40mph; transmission failure appeared on the screen and the car automatically switched into neutral and would not let me shift. Fortunately, I pulled off the road safely and it allowed me to drive home in automatic s1 after stopping. The screen said their were limited driving capabilities.

Had it towed to the dealership, the dealership said they would have to replace the clutch, flywheel, throwout bearing and a couple other parts the service advisor said were on order. After installing these parts they are going to test drive to make sure there are no transmission issues.

I drive a 2010 E60 with 10,000 miles. I drive the car properly, mostly highway miles averaging 100-200 miles per week. It had the proper break in period and the 1,200 miles service.

The car was acting perfectly fine until I began noticing the clicking noise as the smg primed. Still waiting to pick up the vehicle.

Hope this helps
 
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