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Discussion Starter #1
What happened was that I was cruising along on highway one day, my car was suddenly not picking up anymore even though gear was shifted; I had to stop at the side of highway and had my M5 towed back to BMW dealership workshop.

What they found out was that there was a burnt film on the clutch plate, but
the clutch itself was still quite new (it has about 5000Km). They think
that this burnt film caused the slipping of the clutch. They cleaned the
burnt film, put everything back and the car is OK again. They told me that
they do not know the reason for this burnt film, and asked me to pick up the
car. I do have some dougt if I should ask the dealer to replace with new clutch anyway.

Recently, 2000km after, when I downshift by rev matching, the foot pedal seems to vibrate or bounce a little during releasing the clutch.

How can you tell when the clutch is due? If you were me, will U replace the
stock clutch? What other clutch would you recommend for street driving and
a little spirited driving.

Please understand that I do not want to jeopardize the longeivity and
(reliability?!) of my car for making all these changes.

Thank you guys for your input in advance.
 

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Hopefully someone more knowledgeable will offer a definitive answer, but until then...

You need a direct, specifc technical description of the failure. "burnt film" and "cleaning the burnt film" are not descriptions that would appear on BMW records or work orders. Did they resurface it? Or just a gentle washing? :) In any event, the majority of the cost in the clutch is the labor- if you paid for this work, I would have insisted on new parts. Actually, either way I'd insist on new parts.

The clutch has a 'self adjusting mechanism' which can fail and lead to clutch damage. If I recall, a 'funny' feel to the pedal (clicking/strange release) may be an indicator that the mechanism is not working right. Unless the full force of the marginal pressure plate is applied to the clutch, then slippage will occur leading to glazing and burning.

that's my 2 cents...

A

PS The reliability and longevity of the stock clutch are questionable, depending on your driving style and luck. Do a search for 'clutch' or 'self adjusting' here..
 

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Same here, clicking/popping noise from clutch about half way down. Had it inspected by dealership, they said there was a service bulletin issued, and the pressure plate is to blame. They also said it does not interfere with or cause premature wear on the clutch mechanisms. :3:<!-- / message -->
 

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It is extremely important to run a new clutch in carefully. You need to do about 1000 smooth gearshifts before the clutch is ready for full load.

David
 

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Sorry marcuslo,

After replacing many clutches on all types of cars "burnt film" and "cleaning the burnt film" are terms unusual to me. Sounds like the dealer said one thing and did another.
A very common practice. If I'm R&Iing the tranny your getting a new clutch. I think that's the proper way to handle slipping clutches.

Board member Lscman has a petty good handle on clutches maybe he can comment on this thread for some clarification on the terms.

Just MHO
Joe
 

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My take on this is that BMW is losing their profit margin on these cars to premature clutch failures, so they're coming up with all kinds of excuses to try and cut costs. I agree that the labor involved is so great that it's insane not to replace the parts when you have the thing apart. But that's what you'd do if you were the dealer and BMW told you they won't reimburse for the parts if they're not actually defective. Maybe I'm just too cynical.

FWIW, when paying for repairs myself, I always do a bit of research to do a cost of labor/parts calculus. For example, if a water pump has gone bad, I'll look to see which belts and hoses have to come off to replace it, and usually at a minimum will decide to do the belts and hoses that have to come off anyway, since the incremental labor is low. Often depending on the increment above that, I may do all of the hoses so that the one I don't change isn't the one that leaves me stranded down the road. ouich
 

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I'm no expert but it does sound like the SAC mechanism. If you're going to replace the clutch, the general advise on the board I think is to go aftermarket. My clutch is still holding at the moment, but after it's gone I'll go for the new UUC direct fit organic clutch, it's about the same price as the OEM clutch but no more SAC and supposely better performer than stock. You might want to check it out too...

And what year is your car? My car is currently in the Kln dealer as well with clutch problem. My clutch pedal pin broke and my car was tow in by the dealer too, as it turn out there was a recall for the welding on the clutch pedal pin and
they gonna pay for the towing and the replacement even though my warranty's out. Might want to make sure if it's a recall issue :)
 

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Need4Spd said:
FWIW, when paying for repairs myself, I always do a bit of research to do a cost of labor/parts calculus. For example, if a water pump has gone bad, I'll look to see which belts and hoses have to come off to replace it, and usually at a minimum will decide to do the belts and hoses that have to come off anyway, since the incremental labor is low. Often depending on the increment above that, I may do all of the hoses so that the one I don't change isn't the one that leaves me stranded down the road. ouich
Good advice Need4Spd

Joe
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Dear Larry,

Mine is a 00 M5. I do all of my repairs at Chai Wan BMW. However, I am losing confidence with their judgement on what repair should be performed and the result. This "clutch probelm" occured the same day after I picked up my car from repairing differential seal leak.

I suspected that the test driver went for some abuse on the clutch during his test drive. Certainly he denied it.

How are the guys at KLN BMW? Are you satisfy with thier service?





Larry's M5 said:
I'm no expert but it does sound like the SAC mechanism. If you're going to replace the clutch, the general advise on the board I think is to go aftermarket. My clutch is still holding at the moment, but after it's gone I'll go for the new UUC direct fit organic clutch, it's about the same price as the OEM clutch but no more SAC and supposely better performer than stock. You might want to check it out too...

And what year is your car? My car is currently in the Kln dealer as well with clutch problem. My clutch pedal pin broke and my car was tow in by the dealer too, as it turn out there was a recall for the welding on the clutch pedal pin and
they gonna pay for the towing and the replacement even though my warranty's out. Might want to make sure if it's a recall issue :)
 
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