Now my second clutch is starting to slip. The first was replaced under warranty at about 9,000 and now it looks like I need another at 20,000. This is starting to piss me off.
rennen
I feel your pain! I can make mine slip between 2nd and 3rd if I hit the gas a bit early. I think the clutch is the weakest part of the M5 (other than the cup holders). It seems to be a problem with the pressure plate. My dealer has said that they'll take care of it under warranty but only if they get it apart and there is no blueing from it being burnt. My question is, if it is slipping every now and then, couldn't it have blueing anyway?
:cheers:
:cheers:
Clutches ARE expendables... But should last more then 12k miles... I believe the reason some last only 10k and some 50k has to do with driving technique.. I have my car for 25k now, and my driving style is aggressive (tires last only 12k) but the clutch is still fine... So it depends where you you create the "slip" on hard accelerations: the clutch or the tires.. I make sure the clutch is fully engaged before I gun it. And I am not sure which one is less costly, a set of tires or a clutch... 
Doc-XrayMD said:
That was my reaction exactly. I had BMW deny that a problem even existed for the longest time. Finally, only when I did a side-by-side ride-along with the regional tech rep did he then claim to experience the same slipping symptoms. Once we agreed a new clutch was in order, they pulled her apart.
In my case, it was truly a warranty failure: the self-adjusting mechanism gave up the ghost (not uncommon on pre-05/00 cars), and I had insufficient clamping force against the pressure plate. However, there had been months and thousands of miles, including several attempts by techs to demonstrate that the clutch was slipping (the dreaded rolling third gear clutch drop), so I was concerned they would try to pin this on me.
When they disassembled the clutch, they found the friction material to be not too excessively worn (at 38K miles), and little indication of blueing. They then found the failed parts.
I still believe that if a clutch is slipping, it would be possible for an operator to heat it up, after the damage has been done, to the point of discoloration. If they indeed find your innards to be blue, then I'd put up one heck of a fight using that argument.
Good luck, and keep us posted!
10/99 build here. clutch *might* be starting to go now, ~28K miles.
i've noticed under hard acceleration on the 6th street on ramp to 280, the 2nd-3rd shift might not be what it used to be.
one of these days, i'll give up the beast and have them rip apart the clutch and see what's up.
original clutch, third set of tires, fwiw.
(second set was cut short after a nail in the right rear...)
i've noticed under hard acceleration on the 6th street on ramp to 280, the 2nd-3rd shift might not be what it used to be.
one of these days, i'll give up the beast and have them rip apart the clutch and see what's up.
original clutch, third set of tires, fwiw.
(second set was cut short after a nail in the right rear...)
I never thought about that. I am very careful with the clutch, but my tires seem to slip all the time! hiha1C00lVC said:And I am not sure which one is less costly, a set of tires or a clutch...
I think you may be on to something. I have to not worry about things as much. Fun just sometimes has a price!
52000 miles. original clutch. i drive mine hard too. burnouts, donuts, you name it. us philly guys are no punks when it comes to tearing up tires and clutches. the only time i got worried is when i tried to stand still burnout through first and then through second. it slipped the when i dropped it in second. also the tires really dont chirp in third anymore. before when they did, i was runnin 19in schnitzer type 111 one piece with avs. they were 9.5. now i run bbs lm's with so-3's and have a 10 inch wide tire. but, the car still pulls hard, just a little tuffer to get them burning through more than one gear. put the stocks on and it burns third hard.
Gotta tell you I thought anybody with a clutch problem was dropping the thing for burnouts, thought I would never have a problem and here at just under 15k she is starting to go. Have already advised my salesman of it and will fight till the bitter end to have BMW pay for it. My $.02, Murph
I'm with you Murph. I read all those early bad clutch postings in 2000 and thought all those people were slippin it like crazy and it had to be their driving style. In my own expierience, I did 60k miles in a boosted turbo car and then sold the car with the clutch still working fine. I also used to tell people a clutch is a consumable item but should last at least 50k miles if you know how to drive. While I'm at 28k now and still driving on my first clutch, I know it's clearly not what it used to be on those 2-3 shifts.
BTW - mine's an 11/99 M5 so when the E60 comes out and we all read a report in Motor Trend that says "The new V10 M5 includes a newly designed clutch with higher clamping force, a feature lacking in the early production of the E39 version..." I guess we'll smile.
BTW - mine's an 11/99 M5 so when the E60 comes out and we all read a report in Motor Trend that says "The new V10 M5 includes a newly designed clutch with higher clamping force, a feature lacking in the early production of the E39 version..." I guess we'll smile.
Does anyone else see the similarity between this clutch thread and Penthouse Forum?bmurphy said:
"I never thought it would happen to me. I was a student at a small midwestern university when it began
.... I experienced---the dreaded 2-->3 full throttle slip!"
Not poking fun at anyone's expense, gents, but it just struck me that way.
And by the way, prior to my own clutch problems, I was convinced all cases either were a case of abuse or ESO (equipment superior to operator).
Murph: I gotta sh*tload of information and data if you need to take this one to the mat. Just lemme know!
Live and learn! Fight the good fight. Don't let BMW try to pin it back on you!
Twice failed !
My 2001-M5 has clutch slips at 5K, replace it under warranty, failed again by 10K, closing to 15K and it finally seems to be working just fine. The last time they changed all the clutch gear...
we'll have to wait and see if I get to 20K with it...certainly dirve the card hard...then again, is there anyother way to drive an M5...if so...get a 540 !
regards to all
My 2001-M5 has clutch slips at 5K, replace it under warranty, failed again by 10K, closing to 15K and it finally seems to be working just fine. The last time they changed all the clutch gear...
we'll have to wait and see if I get to 20K with it...certainly dirve the card hard...then again, is there anyother way to drive an M5...if so...get a 540 !
regards to all
Make sure that they check the flywheel when replacing a clutch. I had a replacement before my engine was rebuilt and within 3000 miles I needed a new clutch. The flywheel caused the clutch to wear out incredibly quickly. The next clutch was replaced with a new flywheel and it lasted 19,000 miles without slipping (the car was replaced then).
You guys should talk to Centerforce about upgrading the OEM system to their recomended friction compound upon their inspection and recommendation.
I talked to them weeks back, and all they need is a new clutch so they can see what can be improved over the OEM set-up.... they have no probs in doing the work.
They said that it would be around $400 bucks for the upgrade. I don't know what the max clamping force would be rated at after Centerforce do the work but any improvement for $400+ would be well worth it......50-75lbs would cover it well
APPLES
I talked to them weeks back, and all they need is a new clutch so they can see what can be improved over the OEM set-up.... they have no probs in doing the work.
They said that it would be around $400 bucks for the upgrade. I don't know what the max clamping force would be rated at after Centerforce do the work but any improvement for $400+ would be well worth it......50-75lbs would cover it well
APPLES
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