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Discussion Starter #1
I just got done changing my rod bearings and Vanos pump. What a fun job. Lol. I bought the car with a little over 95k miles on it and new it was time to change them. However I also knew the car had been babied by an older gentleman and never tracked. They looked far less worse than I was expecting. I'll post pics on Monday when I get back to work. My car is a 9/05 production with the old style pump, so it had to go as well.

I removed the air boxes, supported the motor, and dropped the cradle. Removed the oil pan and went to work. The biggest pain was probably doing the torque setting 3 times to stretch the bolts properly. And being that I was changing to the new style pump, I had to remove the damper, and change the front crank sprocket. Then install the pump and set the backlash. Which wasn't easy with the pos dial indicator I had.

Reassembled everything, and fired it up. Started exactly as it always had with no abnormal noise. I was expecting a crap ton of vanos noise since I changed the pump and pressure hose, but it didn't make a sound. No check engine lights, no vanos bleeding or anything. I filled it with Castro synthetic 5w -30, and after about a thousand miles, I'll change it again. I've got 10 quarts of 10 60, but not sure if I'll go back to that oil or not.

Comments? Questions? Feedback?

Btw, not sure if my signature shows or not, but I'm a BMW master tech at a dealership. Luckily I have full access to all the instructions, catalogs, etc. And get parts cheap.

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This is a great post! Now the question I have is, could one of us average joes do this, with instructions, or is that unrealistic? Is it possible to obtain the manuals for these cars? Thanks!
 

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Thanks for sharing your process and success with the rod bearing change. If your located in the DC Metro area; there are many of us looking for a BMW Master Tech to do side work.



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This is a great post! Now the question I have is, could one of us average joes do this, with instructions, or is that unrealistic? Is it possible to obtain the manuals for these cars? Thanks!

If you can change you clutch/fly, I feel you can do the pump & bearings. It is of similar difficulty


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Discussion Starter #6
It really is a lot of work. And does require a few special tools. Since I was changing to the updated pump, I had to change the sprocket on the crank. That required removing the damper, and the hub. The crank has to be held in place to remove the 4 crank bolts. So I used the special tool to hold it in place. Then the front seal has to come out. I've changed front crank seals before without the special tool, but this one wasn't budging. I used the special tool to remove the front seal. Then replaced the crank sprocket. And then used the special tool to install the new seal. I've done seals without the tool before, but the way the lip faces, the tool worked perfectly and set the depth of the seal exactly. Then back on with the damper, and pulley. Installed the new vanos pump and set the depth. Used a ****ty dial indicator, but I think it did the trick. Required a lot of tightening the bolts, checking, loosening, then adjusting. A real pain because it's just trial and error. The holes on the pump are slotted so the pump will slide back and forth to set the backlash. A shim design or an eccentric bolt would have been much easier and precise.

So bottom line, could you do it at home? Just rod bearings? Probably with a good set of tools, and an engine support brace. But no way I would try it. I'd never go back to laying on my back working under a car. And the Vanos pump? If you didnt have to change the crank sprocket, it'd be a lot easier. But still requires a dial indicator and a little trial and error.

So no go on the 5w 30? It's only going to be in there for 1k miles until I change it out. I think we need to start a new oil thread with all the info of what oil and why.

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
But why. I used the 5 30 just because I have a nearly unlimited supply. Based on the tight clearances a thinner oil is better, but due to the high rpm these motors spin, a high shear resistant oil is needed right? So, 0 40 is the best compromise?

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If you are tracking the car, I would run a 10-30 only for the track event since the oil gets hot hot hot.

Other then that, 0-40 is optimal.

My crankshaft guy said that for the dimensions of the rod bearings and crank journals that a 0-40 is best


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Discussion Starter #10
So why does bmw use the 10 60? I know a thinner oil is better with the really thin bearing clearance. But what about the high rpm range. Any advantages to a 60 shear resistance? Like I said, I'm not an oil expert. Just wanted to know what's best to run when. I change it 1k miles from now

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Great job. I agree the rod bolts are the biggest pain by far. I too used oem bolts when I did mine. I'm doing my fathers M6 in a few weeks and this time I bought the ARP rod bolts. Only 1 torque pull to 45 ft/lbs and your done. There is a newer version that just came out and those get torqued to 60 ft.lbs. Saves several hours and the bolts are reusable. If I ever get back into mine, I'm switching to ARP.
 

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So why does bmw use the 10 60? I know a thinner oil is better with the really thin bearing clearance. But what about the high rpm range. Any advantages to a 60 shear resistance? Like I said, I'm not an oil expert. Just wanted to know what's best to run when. I change it 1k miles from now

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There are a few guys in the M3 community with a great deal of knowledge, experience, and machine access who worked on this problem. One has access to a spendy little oil analysis rig for a NASCAR race team and ran a few oils through it. Mobil 1's 0W-40 had an additive package nearly identical to TWS and didn't shear as fast. It's been the choice of many since as it gives some margin for improvement over the TWS for cold starting and low temp operation.

Nice job on the rebuild, very satisfying once you know it runs. I would recommend bleeding the VANOS though, it may not have enough trapped air for noise, but can affect VANOS actuator performance. Run the VANOS performance test in ISTA, then run the ventilation procedure 2, even 3 times. Then run the VANOS performance test again and watch for improvement. I was surprised at the difference.

Did you replace the VANOS discharge hose while in there? Curious how hard your bolt-up was if you did. I had to flex that pipe quite a bit to get it to bolt up to the new pump.

I did mine all on jackstands at the end of last year and although not impossible, it wasn't pleasant. In Maine. In the winter. In a detached, uninsulated garage. I guess that was really the more miserable part of it than the car itself. I had to improvise on a lot of things, especially pulling the harmonic damper off the front. I had a flywheel lock I could of used if the transmission was out, but another lesson learned, don't try to drop the transmission if the engine is already in the "installation position"...you can't.

Finally, I'm glad to see a BMW tech on the forum. Forgive me if I speak harshly from time to time of the ones I've dealt with in the past, I get extremely frustrated with the lack fundamental knowledge that is often seen when people get their Ms worked on.

Looking forward to your pics as well as knowledgeable input here in the future.
 

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Discussion Starter #18 (Edited)
Yeah, I think I can post pics. I didn't take any of the bearings yet. I was in a rush to get out of there yesterday. I'll post some on Monday.

I did replace the vanos pressure hose. And yes, it did have to be flexed a little to get lined up.

Maybe I'll reconsider what oil to use. Anyone want to buy some 10 60? $10 per quart. Lol


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Thought you said you run 0-40?


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I have tried both and saw no difference so went back to stock.

So far I have 5.5k miles on my oil and zero loss of oil :cheers: gauge still reads 1L.

Jim yes I did have a few minor mods done while the engine was out of which one was the journals but along with better rod bearings made a big difference.
 
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