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Discussion Starter #41
UG!! are you saying that there's no stop when the new seal is inserted, it's just located like partially into the area where it sits so it is possible to push it TOO far in? this changes everything...
 

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Discussion Starter #43
Got my used head and it def appears to have a stop point inside where the seal goes. It was kinda damaged so I’m going to get another one for the test..

Few pics of ktmp from traffic today.

Hit 90 in stop and go traffic


Constant highway driving in 6th and it is still around 75C, but mixed highway driving with slow downs it will hover around 78 argh is it ok? This blows, I think I may be hyper focused too much now.






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Did you turn off the heater? That is the test if the temp comes back to 78 as is well. If you don't do the test you will never really know, although the test is subjective. If your drive is near the same as it was with the heater on then less subjective. Get in the open at X rpm when the temp is 75 turn off the heater maintain speed and rpm, if the temp rises to 78 turn the heater back on and see if it comes down.
 

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UG!! are you saying that there's no stop when the new seal is inserted, it's just located like partially into the area where it sits so it is possible to push it TOO far in? this changes everything...
I don't really remember IE the IIRC addition, I have been making it pretty clear in posts for sometime my memory is failing. Can't do much about that you just need to check other posts or make note when I say I am not sure or don't really remember.
 

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Discussion Starter #46
Did you turn off the heater? That is the test if the temp comes back to 78 as is well. If you don't do the test you will never really know, although the test is subjective. If your drive is near the same as it was with the heater on then less subjective. Get in the open at X rpm when the temp is 75 turn off the heater maintain speed and rpm, if the temp rises to 78 turn the heater back on and see if it comes down.
i did do this test. With heater on, hovers around 75C, with heater off yesterday, it only came up to around 76C on the highway, but mixed driving I will def see around 77-78C with the heater off. Turn it back on and it will go to 75 if cruising on the highway.
 

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Discussion Starter #48
If it's normal for the coolant temp to fluctuate between 75 and 85-90 during highway driving and then gridlock stop and go traffic, I may just stop looking at it. Except that I am still going to replace the seal and T-stat since I have them. But I need to stop obsessing.
 

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Stop obsessing and replace the seal and thermostat. IMO anything less than 78C once the car is warmed up is a sign that the t-stat is starting to stick open. Temperatures above 79C mean nothing for t-stat problems unless you're on a race track. And even then, the problem is likely that the seal came out and jammed the t-stat in place. I know because these things have happened to me. I've owned my M5 for 9 years and 180,000 miles of my driving. Specific M5's may have their nuances, but when mine exhibits a steady 78C or less while cruising, it means it's time for a new stat. Every time I replace the stat, I replace the seal as well. I use a standard oil seal puller and a hammer to change it. The process has never failed me. Put the housing in a vise (carefully) and position the seal puller under the lip. Use the hammer to shock the seal loose. Then use a seal installer of the correct diameter and hammer in the new one. DO NOT push in on the new seal to make the t-stat slide in easily. You want to go straight in and use downward pressure to get the t-stat in place.

Once I adopted the method, the longevity of the t-stat doubled or tripled in miles and time before needing a new one.

Also, the seals I bought are branded MotoRad from RockAuto. I bought like 10 of them on close out at like $1.10 each a few years back. They've worked fine without leaking prematurely.
 

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Discussion Starter #50
Very good advice there Tim, would you mind elaborating on this part here? what do you mean by "push in on the new seal"? Shouldn't the T-stat slide perfectly into the seal in the body?Albeit probably a pretty tight fit with new pieces...

DO NOT push in on the new seal to make the t-stat slide in easily. You want to go straight in and use downward pressure to get the t-stat in place.
 

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Discussion Starter #51
by the way, I fully intend to replace the seal and T-stat, I just like complaining and obsessing when things start to act questionable, and this is the most lightly questionable part I have dealt with in 15 years of fixing BMWs.
 

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Some people will think too much pressure is needed so they will massage the black part of the seal to make it fit easier. Don't do that.
 

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Discussion Starter #53
Some people will think too much pressure is needed so they will massage the black part of the seal to make it fit easier. Don't do that.
so the fitment will be tight pushing the new T-stat into the housing past the seal, and what you're saying here is it should be a tight fit, and do not try to manipulate the rubber seal in any way so the fitment is NOT as tight as it should be, correct?

I'll admit, I kinda can't wait to pull my T-stat now to see how it is inside, as well as get my new used body, and give an attempt at pulling the old seal and installing the new one. I have a front wheel bearing kit that has quite a few cups and one of them should fit this application. I used a cup from there to tap in my rear diff pinion seal when I did that job and it worked perfectly.

I don't have a vice (embarrassed), so I may see if my 3 jaw puller fits, or if not, might just pick up a vice at harbor freight since I have been meaning to get one for a long time. I do have a new set of seal pullers I bought for the diff seal job, so they should be good for this application as well, but 3 jaw puller test fit first.
 
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