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Sorry if there is a topic on this but I did a search and didn't see one that matched my issue. Although that could be because I'm on feel good meds for my broken leg. Anyway, I have my buddy driving my m5 every now and then while I'm down (the m5 is my dd and gets her feelings hurt when not driven regularly) and he informed me that the car cut out while he was driving a couple of times. There was still electrical power, just the engine died. The car starts immediately after with no issue and drives fine as if nothing happened. Pulled codes and got table 1b error 17 34 18 1a 19 33 37 32, essentially every ignition coil. Could one bad coil cause the rest to foul up or is there another gremlin that could cause this? I was having a starting issue before that I posted in another thread about, but a new fuel pump, fuel pump relay, and fuel pressure regulator seemed to make a big difference. Spark plugs less than 10k ago. I still get the random startup issue every now and then, but this dying while driving is obviously more cause for concern than the slight inconvenience of startup issue. I'm not able to drive stick for a couple of weeks so I won't be able to do any troubleshooting myself, but I could ask my buddy to help me out with any suggestions you all may have. I'm limited in my mechanical skills anyway so it's probably better he troubleshoots it. Thanks all in advance. Not being able to drive my car is already killing me and now this pops up

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Discussion Starter #2
Did some more googling and "car dying while driving" seems to always pull up fuel pump suggestions, but the cars don't start as the pump generally kicks the bucket. Mine fires right back up. Pump, fpr, and relay all brand new. I'm going to keep searching using the Peake codes

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Discussion Starter #4
Awesome thanks didn't even think to look in that thread. I also found an old thread that mentioned the ignition switch. Going to start honing in on those two. Really appreciate it

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When was the last time you cleared the codes? Did you clear them after you read them today? If no clear them now. Take the car for a drive, read the codes. Keep the reader in the car and asap after it stalls read the codes. Start the car turn it off read the codes. Clear the codes every time you read them and make notes for a record include what happened even if nothing happened. Every time you start that car or try to start it if it fails read the codes.
This is a very unusual problem and I have never seen a string of codes for every coil before.
 

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I had a look through the wiring diagrams and there is only one thing that is connected to all 8 coils aside from the DME/ECU.
It is the unloader relay. Since it is cheapish and easy to get to (in the DME box) you might want to gamble on that.
Unloader relay.JPG
 

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We think alike. The dumb DME just sees a simultaneous loss of 12V at each coil switching transistor and doesn't put 2 and 2 together.

Could also be fuse F5 in the fuse carrier just to the left of the relay in sailor's pic. It supplies the relay. Look for loose fuse or burned contacts or maybe even a cracked filament in the fuse, ie reasons for an intermittent contact.
 

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Good point the power that drives the relay, never thought of that. Dam WDS why not one huge diagram to cover the dining room table so we can make all the connections. After all I am looking on a 60" led TV, could fit!
Since we are under a hundred bucks I might suggest replace the fuse and the relay but get a can of contact cleaner and clean each contact on both parts. And gently squeeze the contacts you can with appropriate pliers.

Edit searched terminal 15 ....how does your stereo work ever get static when you should not?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
When was the last time you cleared the codes? Did you clear them after you read them today? If no clear them now. Take the car for a drive, read the codes. Keep the reader in the car and asap after it stalls read the codes. Start the car turn it off read the codes. Clear the codes every time you read them and make notes for a record include what happened even if nothing happened. Every time you start that car or try to start it if it fails read the codes.
This is a very unusual problem and I have never seen a string of codes for every coil before.
Yep the codes were cleared. I'm going to have to ask my buddy to drive the car again soon and will definitely check codes immediately if it happens again. I'll keep a record as well.

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Discussion Starter #10
I had a look through the wiring diagrams and there is only one thing that is connected to all 8 coils aside from the DME/ECU.
It is the unloader relay. Since it is cheapish and easy to get to (in the DME box) you might want to gamble on that.
View attachment 441818
Perfect I will absolutely look into that. Seems easy enough for a novice.

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Discussion Starter #11
Good point the power that drives the relay, never thought of that. Dam WDS why not one huge diagram to cover the dining room table so we can make all the connections. After all I am looking on a 60" led TV, could fit!
Since we are under a hundred bucks I might suggest replace the fuse and the relay but get a can of contact cleaner and clean each contact on both parts. And gently squeeze the contacts you can with appropriate pliers.

Edit searched terminal 15 ....how does your stereo work ever get static when you should not?
To be honest, I hardly use the stereo as I love the sound of the beast! But last time I recall, it sounded fine with no static or crackling. I'll hobble down to the garage to double check the stereo bit.

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Discussion Starter #12
We think alike. The dumb DME just sees a simultaneous loss of 12V at each coil switching transistor and doesn't put 2 and 2 together.

Could also be fuse F5 in the fuse carrier just to the left of the relay in sailor's pic. It supplies the relay. Look for loose fuse or burned contacts or maybe even a cracked filament in the fuse, ie reasons for an intermittent contact.
Will do thanks!

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To be honest, I hardly use the stereo as I love the sound of the beast! But last time I recall, it sounded fine with no static or crackling. I'll hobble down to the garage to double check the stereo bit.

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If he's leading where I think he is with the stereo bit, you need to have the engine running for the check...
 

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Discussion Starter #14
If he's leading where I think he is with the stereo bit, you need to have the engine running for the check...
Negative on the stereo issue. Fired her up and everything sounded good as far as the stereo goes. The other troubleshooting will have to wait (hopefully not too long) until I have a hand. Let's just say I'm not the best on crutches :banghead:

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Not sure if this will be of any help, but I had a similar issue where my car would shut off at every stop. I could keep her alive if I kept the rpms above 2k, but if I let off the gas, rpms would just drop straight to nothing and gently shut off. Drove me absolutely insane. I changed out my fuel filter, pump, and relay, in that order, to no avail. I was about to throw in the towel and end my shopless streak when I came across a procedure to cycle the pump with the car off with a jumper, which did the trick. Hope this helps.
 

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Not sure if this will be of any help, but I had a similar issue where my car would shut off at every stop. I could keep her alive if I kept the rpms above 2k, but if I let off the gas, rpms would just drop straight to nothing and gently shut off. Drove me absolutely insane. I changed out my fuel filter, pump, and relay, in that order, to no avail. I was about to throw in the towel and end my shopless streak when I came across a procedure to cycle the pump with the car off with a jumper, which did the trick. Hope this helps.
Can you explain that some more? I haven't head of that procedure.
 

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I ran into Chuck a couple of times recently. He was telling me about all your mishaps. :/

Hope the leg heals quickly bud and good luck getting to the bottom of your M troubles.
 

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Agree. Likely something else was a miss. Dirty contact and pulling the relay a few times finally cleaned it? Volts are pulsing lower when you have your foot off the gas so maybe only higher constant volts could get though a poor contact. So when it is jumped some arc welding goes on until the weak contact point gets welded to become a good contact point? Seems odd but stranger things have been true.
 
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