Can't open hood
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oohhh: Not currently critical...I can take it back to AGA on Monday and have them deal with it, but...:dunno:I may have had similar problem with mine.....
I could "pop" the hood using the internal release lever, but the lever in the grill wouldn't release the secondary catch mechanism.
A bit of persistent wiggling got it open eventually and a renewal of grease on the mechanism on the underside of the hood seems to have stopped the same thing happening again.
Not sure from your description if you're getting a reaction when you pull the internal release level?
I could "pop" the hood using the internal release lever, but the lever in the grill wouldn't release the secondary catch mechanism.
A bit of persistent wiggling got it open eventually and a renewal of grease on the mechanism on the underside of the hood seems to have stopped the same thing happening again.
Not sure from your description if you're getting a reaction when you pull the internal release level?
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I already *had* a problem with the exteriour latch. The car always looked like the hood had been "popped". I guess I need(ed) a new mechanism. However, it worked...until I went in for an oil change. (Not that I'd blame AGA for it. )
NO ... they are adjustable ... just put a flat plade screwdriver in the slot in the "striker" and turn in the appropiate direction (I think you have to loosen the "nut" that keeps it from turning ... inside the spring). (And, lube the mechanism.)
I've done it on other BMWs.
DIY Engine Hood (release) Mechanism
I just fixed my hood release. It is a DIY job. In my case, the ENGINE HOOD MECHANISM #12 that attaches to the interior handle broke. This part comes assembled with a grommet, a return spring mechanism and a cable. See http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=DE53&mospid=47588&btnr=41_0057&hg=41&fg=35
I had to remove the under dash panel, the dead-foot pedal and the filter housing over the brake master cylinder. #12 comes with a return spring mechanism attached. You can easily separate these parts to pull out the cable from the firewall. Since #12 comes with a new grommet, I pulled it out with the cable.
A word of caution. The plastic connecting housing where the two cables, #12 and #22 BOWDEN CABLE connect, is very brittle and can easily break. This housing is part of #22, but it shows the housing at the other end of #22. It has a connecting housing where the cable connects to #12 too. The drawing does not show a housing at both ends of #22.
My housing actually broke, but I was able to tie-wrap the parts together. When I need remove the radiator, I will replace #22 as well. I assume the M5 will use the same parts as other E39's, but double check your part numbers.
I just fixed my hood release. It is a DIY job. In my case, the ENGINE HOOD MECHANISM #12 that attaches to the interior handle broke. This part comes assembled with a grommet, a return spring mechanism and a cable. See http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=DE53&mospid=47588&btnr=41_0057&hg=41&fg=35
I had to remove the under dash panel, the dead-foot pedal and the filter housing over the brake master cylinder. #12 comes with a return spring mechanism attached. You can easily separate these parts to pull out the cable from the firewall. Since #12 comes with a new grommet, I pulled it out with the cable.
A word of caution. The plastic connecting housing where the two cables, #12 and #22 BOWDEN CABLE connect, is very brittle and can easily break. This housing is part of #22, but it shows the housing at the other end of #22. It has a connecting housing where the cable connects to #12 too. The drawing does not show a housing at both ends of #22.
My housing actually broke, but I was able to tie-wrap the parts together. When I need remove the radiator, I will replace #22 as well. I assume the M5 will use the same parts as other E39's, but double check your part numbers.
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Anti-Seize to the Rescue!
If the hood pops up, but the underhood handle is stiff, simply put some anti-seize on it.
Mine was like that, and it is just a matter of aluminum corrosion - anti-seize solves everything!
d-
ps. Put it on your hubs as well to prevent your wheels from rusting in place between changes.
If the hood pops up, but the underhood handle is stiff, simply put some anti-seize on it.
Mine was like that, and it is just a matter of aluminum corrosion - anti-seize solves everything!
d-
ps. Put it on your hubs as well to prevent your wheels from rusting in place between changes.
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Um...thanks, but that doesn't sound like a DIY for *me*.:cool2: Since I'm doing a road trip to Vegas next week, I think I'll let the pros handle it.:sad1:
Let us know what they find.
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I will. Thanks. When you pull the lever, *nothing* happens. I'll bring it in tomorow.
Same here
I just saw this yawnnnn Already started another thread. I have the opposit problem my hood doesn't want to close. Let us know what was wrong.
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Nothing at all as in there is no tension on the lever? Or nothing as in you can pull the lever but there is no physically observable result?
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d-
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This is AGA we're talking about?
Are they going downhill or what?
Are they going downhill or what?
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Well...I'm not gonna say that. I was in a huge hurry, and in the middle of a huge "domestic disturbance" when I picked the car up....so I was already seriously pissed. Then I saw the scratch. Nothing major, but when I was told: "it was already like that", I figured I'd better just leave before I got myself arrested or something and deal with it at a later time. However, I would not take this one bad experience and extrapolate that into them "going downhill." They've always done me right, and I'm sure this will get taken care of too.
The path the cables take is fairly straight from the hood latch to the interior. That is until you get to the pull handle. At that spot the cable makes a sharp bend each time you pull on the handle. This bending is causing fatigue in the cable and is most likely the cause of the break.
It makes sense that they changed both cables. One under that dash which I suspect was the culprit and the other that actually connects the two cables together. As I stated earlier, the cable with the connector on it does not appear to be reusable and should be replaced.
As far as AGA goes, they have done work for me in the past and I trust they did the right thing. On the other hand, it takes a real hero to admit scratching someone's car. My experience has taught me to point out any problems with my paint and body each time I drop off my car.
It makes sense that they changed both cables. One under that dash which I suspect was the culprit and the other that actually connects the two cables together. As I stated earlier, the cable with the connector on it does not appear to be reusable and should be replaced.
As far as AGA goes, they have done work for me in the past and I trust they did the right thing. On the other hand, it takes a real hero to admit scratching someone's car. My experience has taught me to point out any problems with my paint and body each time I drop off my car.
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