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Discussion Starter #1
Car is a CDM MY2000 with 01-03 CDM cluster. Warm start.

Trying to figure out the sound that starts at 32 seconds and goes til 54 seconds or so. Could not replicate the issue again following this. Apparently the only code is related to the secondary air issue.
 

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If you were to describe that sound, then VANOS would be an idea.

However, what's that yellow light on the lower left of your instrument cluster? That's where the SES light should be (service engine soon) but you have an icon that I'm not familiar with.

Have you tried to pull codes with a Peake?
 

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Trying to figure out the sound that starts at 32 seconds and goes til 54 seconds or so. Could not replicate the issue again following this. Apparently the only code is related to the secondary air issue.
Sounds like the secondary air pump is dying? :dunno:
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Yes as vantaam5 mentioned, that is the CDM cluster's equivalent of the SES "idiot light".

Forgot to mention one thing... the car has 132000km on it, that's about 82000 miles.

A sticker on the fuel door with some words in German and with reference to RON ratings is leading me to believe that the car was a European Delivery car, if that makes a difference. My previous CDM 2000 M5 did not have that sticker on it.

Only one code pops up and that is the secondary air one... something about "air pump flow not sufficient". This is what the mechanic said per verbatim. Whether he remembers or is recounting it correctly is unknown to me.

I did not scan them myself. This came from the mechanic who was trying to sell me the car.

My mechanic also mentions that once he clears it, it comes back quickly. At the onset of our first test drive, it was not there. Then it appeared after a warm restart at some point 10 minutes later. I wasn't paying attention to when it returned as I wasn't driving.

This isn't the end of the world in the province of Ontario since we simply do sniffer emissions tests here. I've passed many emissions tests with my check engine light on. They don't look. They frankly don't care.

Since I'm looking, I'd thought I'd consider this car since it's a nice Avus Blue (just a bit darker than LMB... to my eyes anyway) and absolutely rust free (fuel filler area, door trim, door edges, etc) which is a rarity for a local to me 10 year old car.


So it sounds like a struggling pump to someone? The mechanic said he'd try to replace some of the hoses leading up to a pump in an effort to make the code from not appearing.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Now we know where to start: ddi you reset the code about the secondary air pump? Is it the only code that came back?

Yes the single code about the secondary air was reset and it was the only one that returned.
 

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What is the secondary air pump for? I read somewhere that it can be removed/bypassed. What's the deal with that?
 

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A sticker on the fuel door with some words in German and with reference to RON ratings is leading me to believe that the car was a European Delivery car, if that makes a difference. My previous CDM 2000 M5 did not have that sticker on it.
don't see how the fuel would make a difference - if anything it had a better life in europe - unless Canada has Ethanol Free Fuel aswell
Trey Test #10 to see what country it's from

As promised, here are the instructions on how to get to the "Test Modes" of the OBC. I didn't run into any trouble, but as always, do this at your own risk :) BMW apparently doesn't want you to play with this, so most modes are locked. Once you unlock them, they remain unlocked, until you bring in your car for service, or explicitly lock them yourself.

UNLOCK PROCEDURE:

1) Key to ignition pos 2 (no need to start engine).
2) Fasten the seat belt to get rid of the "Fasten Seat Belt" message.
3) Press the right button on the instrument panel, and hold it until "TEST-NR. 01" comes up (5 to 10 seconds).
4) Press the left button on the instrument panel, and the vehicle id comes up (last 7 digits of VIN).
5) Add up the last 5 digits to get the "unlock code", e.g. the unlock code for "AB12345" would be 15 (1+2+3+4+5).
6) Repeatedly press the right button until "TEST-NR. 19" appears.
7) Press left button -> "LOCK : ON"
8) Repeatedly press left button until "LOCK : xx" appears, where "xx" is your unlock code.
9. Press the right button. All modes are unlocked now.

NAVIGATING BETWEEN TESTS AND PERFORMING THEM:

- Follow steps 1) to 3) of the "UNLOCK PROCEDURE" to enter test mode.
- Use the right button to step from test to test.
- Press the left button to enter a test and cycle between modes within a test.
- Press and hold the right button to exit test mode (turning the key to 0 works as well).

Here is what I know about the various test modes:

2) Instrument test: Cute light show in the instrument panel. Ever wanted to see the speedo show 190 without having to leave the garage?

3) Don't know.

4) Current fuel consumption in liters per 100 kilometers and in liters per hour.

5) Average fuel consumption in liters per 100 kilometers and range.

6) Current fuel levels in left tank, right tank, and total.

7) Engine temperature (not sure where measured), engine RPM, and outside temperature.

8) Current speed in kilometers per hour.

9) Battery voltage.

10) Country.

11) Don't know.

12) Not sure what these are. Could be average speed used to calculate arrival time for distance to destination set in OBC?

13) Sound test. Goes through the various gong sounds.

14) Don't know. Could be some diagnostic codes.

15) DOn't know. Looks like a real-time readout of some registers.

16) Oil temperature. I sometimes get a bogus -48 degrees C when the engine is not running. Corrects itself when the engine is on.

17) Don't know.

18) Doesn't do anything.

19) Locking & unlocking of the test modes.

20) Don't know.

21) Don't know. This test asks you "RESET?". Let me know what it does, if you're brave enough to try it. I'd recommend to stay clear, though.

Have fun.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Sounds like something is caught in the puller fan (in front of the radiator).
Interesting thought. The mechanic had just adjusted the hood release latch by trying to bend it back into shape as it was not clearing the kidney slats. Could that have caused something else to snag?

During the video, the car was parked. Then we popped the hood and tried to replicate it but it did not happen again so maybe a hood in its normal driving position caused it?

To me it sounded like a slipping belt?
 

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Well if you can only make it happen with the hood closed then try putting your hand on the hood to see if you can feel something hitting the latch. doubtful but who knows.
 

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Interesting thought. The mechanic had just adjusted the hood release latch by trying to bend it back into shape as it was not clearing the kidney slats. Could that have caused something else to snag?

During the video, the car was parked. Then we popped the hood and tried to replicate it but it did not happen again so maybe a hood in its normal driving position caused it?

To me it sounded like a slipping belt?
That clicking noise doesnt sound like any kind of belt noise to me. Check the fanblades and see if there are any marks on it from something rubbing. Turn on the a/c compressor to cycle the fan on and off while the hood is down to see if you can replicate the noise.
 

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Not the noise mine sometimes makes from the VANOS, which is more like a clattering noise. I'd agree that it sounds like something stuck in a fan. The day I got the Powerchip flash done I noticed a clicking noise coming from the aux fan as it cycled on and off that sounded like a blade striking something as it went around. I still haven't diagnosed it yet because it was very minor.

Good luck,

Tim
 
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