Trying to figure out the sound that starts at 32 seconds and goes til 54 seconds or so. Could not replicate the issue again following this. Apparently the only code is related to the secondary air issue.
Now we know where to start: ddi you reset the code about the secondary air pump? Is it the only code that came back?The yellow light is the check engine light on Euro and non US cars...
Sounds like the secondary air pump is dying? :dunno:Trying to figure out the sound that starts at 32 seconds and goes til 54 seconds or so. Could not replicate the issue again following this. Apparently the only code is related to the secondary air issue.
Now we know where to start: ddi you reset the code about the secondary air pump? Is it the only code that came back?
Secondary air pump can be deleted with software...What is the secondary air pump for? I read somewhere that it can be removed/bypassed. What's the deal with that?
don't see how the fuel would make a difference - if anything it had a better life in europe - unless Canada has Ethanol Free Fuel aswellA sticker on the fuel door with some words in German and with reference to RON ratings is leading me to believe that the car was a European Delivery car, if that makes a difference. My previous CDM 2000 M5 did not have that sticker on it.
As promised, here are the instructions on how to get to the "Test Modes" of the OBC. I didn't run into any trouble, but as always, do this at your own riskBMW apparently doesn't want you to play with this, so most modes are locked. Once you unlock them, they remain unlocked, until you bring in your car for service, or explicitly lock them yourself.
UNLOCK PROCEDURE:
1) Key to ignition pos 2 (no need to start engine).
2) Fasten the seat belt to get rid of the "Fasten Seat Belt" message.
3) Press the right button on the instrument panel, and hold it until "TEST-NR. 01" comes up (5 to 10 seconds).
4) Press the left button on the instrument panel, and the vehicle id comes up (last 7 digits of VIN).
5) Add up the last 5 digits to get the "unlock code", e.g. the unlock code for "AB12345" would be 15 (1+2+3+4+5).
6) Repeatedly press the right button until "TEST-NR. 19" appears.
7) Press left button -> "LOCK : ON"
8) Repeatedly press left button until "LOCK : xx" appears, where "xx" is your unlock code.
9. Press the right button. All modes are unlocked now.
NAVIGATING BETWEEN TESTS AND PERFORMING THEM:
- Follow steps 1) to 3) of the "UNLOCK PROCEDURE" to enter test mode.
- Use the right button to step from test to test.
- Press the left button to enter a test and cycle between modes within a test.
- Press and hold the right button to exit test mode (turning the key to 0 works as well).
Here is what I know about the various test modes:
2) Instrument test: Cute light show in the instrument panel. Ever wanted to see the speedo show 190 without having to leave the garage?
3) Don't know.
4) Current fuel consumption in liters per 100 kilometers and in liters per hour.
5) Average fuel consumption in liters per 100 kilometers and range.
6) Current fuel levels in left tank, right tank, and total.
7) Engine temperature (not sure where measured), engine RPM, and outside temperature.
8) Current speed in kilometers per hour.
9) Battery voltage.
10) Country.
11) Don't know.
12) Not sure what these are. Could be average speed used to calculate arrival time for distance to destination set in OBC?
13) Sound test. Goes through the various gong sounds.
14) Don't know. Could be some diagnostic codes.
15) DOn't know. Looks like a real-time readout of some registers.
16) Oil temperature. I sometimes get a bogus -48 degrees C when the engine is not running. Corrects itself when the engine is on.
17) Don't know.
18) Doesn't do anything.
19) Locking & unlocking of the test modes.
20) Don't know.
21) Don't know. This test asks you "RESET?". Let me know what it does, if you're brave enough to try it. I'd recommend to stay clear, though.
Have fun.
Interesting thought. The mechanic had just adjusted the hood release latch by trying to bend it back into shape as it was not clearing the kidney slats. Could that have caused something else to snag?Sounds like something is caught in the puller fan (in front of the radiator).
That clicking noise doesnt sound like any kind of belt noise to me. Check the fanblades and see if there are any marks on it from something rubbing. Turn on the a/c compressor to cycle the fan on and off while the hood is down to see if you can replicate the noise.Interesting thought. The mechanic had just adjusted the hood release latch by trying to bend it back into shape as it was not clearing the kidney slats. Could that have caused something else to snag?
During the video, the car was parked. Then we popped the hood and tried to replicate it but it did not happen again so maybe a hood in its normal driving position caused it?
To me it sounded like a slipping belt?