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Hi Guys,
I have a question for you experienced "do it yourselfer's"
I will have to raise the car up off from the ground and mount the car up on jack stands, because I sold my RD SPORT RSII rims, and the buyer will be taking possesion of them within a few weeks. Until my HRE rims come in from Calli and I have rubber mounted on these new rims, I'll have to keep the car on stands, inside my garage. I've never done this before (mounting a car on all fours, on jack stands) so Im looking for any advise on how this should be done. Do i raise the car up one corner at a time with a floor jack and then slip the jack stand under the car corner that's raised? I'd hate to do something incorrectly with this car, know what I mean?!?!
Thanks.
Robert
 

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I think Dave Z would be the best to answer this as his method of jacking up the car for tranny mounts and ssk allows for placement of stands on the lift pads.
 

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When i'm doing work that requires jack stands, I typically jack the car up just behind (front end, or ahead for the rear) of the jack pad with a floor jack, then put the jack stand under the jack pad.
Might check the discovery auto site, they have some pics of Rob's car on stands which may give you some ideas
Mike
 

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Rob, do as Mike suggests... floor jack under the rear, place the jack stands beneath the car.. then do the same with the front. I would not try corner by corner at all, if you know what I mean
 

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Robert...dont listen to andre...those crazy south africans are only trying to confuse us with there "other side of the equator talk" same goes for MIB and all those nutty aussies.
 

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SC'dKellenersM5 said:
Robert...dont listen to andre...those crazy south africans are only trying to confuse us with there "other side of the equator talk" same goes for MIB and all those nutty aussies.
Oh man.. you had to spill the beans.. when Isay up I really mean down and when I say down I really mean up.. Caught out again :nono: Sorry :sad2:
 

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FAST 5 said:
Hi Guys,
I have a question for you experienced "do it yourselfer's"
I will have to raise the car up off from the ground and mount the car up on jack stands, because I sold my RD SPORT RSII rims, and the buyer will be taking possesion of them within a few weeks. Until my HRE rims come in from Calli and I have rubber mounted on these new rims, I'll have to keep the car on stands, inside my garage. I've never done this before (mounting a car on all fours, on jack stands) so Im looking for any advise on how this should be done. Do i raise the car up one corner at a time with a floor jack and then slip the jack stand under the car corner that's raised? I'd hate to do something incorrectly with this car, know what I mean?!?!
Thanks.
Robert
Robert:

Try this link...http://www.bmwtips.com/tipsntricks/jack/jack.htm

Eric
 

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Right "weight" jack?

Looking at this:
http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?BV_UseBVCookie=Yes&vertical=TOOL&pid=00950240000&tab=des#tablink

I'm wondering what the recommended lift capacity of a jack should be. Since the car's weight will not be fully supported by the jack, does it make sense to get a 2+ ton lift capacity?

I have a few other cars that are <2000 lbs, but the M5 and 540 are both around 4000 lbs, but with ~50% of the weight up front, if I want to lift the front end, that should mean that I have around 1000lbs of margin. Is that logic right?
 

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Is there a picture of the underside of the M5 with the appropriate jacking points labelled? There is a real good one of the M3 that is around on the various sites, was hoping someone made one for the M5.
 

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As with all things M5, there are a variety of opinions on this topic. Here are mine.

First, jacking should be done at the factory jack points and not on the suspension. Never, never put a single jack under the differential to raise the rear - the subframe was not designed for this. There is a factory specific reinforced central jack point on the front subframe, but I find it impossible to get a jack on this due to the low ground clearance of the M5.

Second, this procedure should be done with two jacks - one on each side of the car - so the car can be raised approximately level right-to-left. [It can be done with one jack, but is not as safe due to the possibility of slipping off the jack stand due to the extreme side-to-side angle and I do not recommend this.] Hard rubber jack pads improve security, as they "grip" the plastic jack blocks.

I raise the front first, from the two forward jack points, and place jack stands under the front lower control arm pivot points at the front engine cradle (not on the aluminum arms, obviously). I then raise the rear of the car from the rear jack points on each side. This should be done evenly, as the car structure is quite rigid and will lift off one side or the other at the front jack stands if uneven. Check frequently that the front jack stands are still lined up where you want them. When the rear is fully raised, I place a second set of jack stands on tubular sections of the rear subframe near the front inside of the rear wheels, where the subframe mounts to the body.

Once settled, the car is held quite securely. I have pulled the transmission a couple of times this way.

Also obviously, use high quality jacks and jack stands and make extremely sure that all the stands are securely positioned before working under the car.
You should not attempt this if you are not comfortable with the equipment and the process involved.

All of the above makes one appreciate a 4-post hydraulic lift.

Regards, Dick Roberts
 

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RRoberts said:
As with all things M5, there are a variety of opinions on this topic. Here are mine.

First, jacking should be done at the factory jack points and not on the suspension. Never, never put a single jack under the differential to raise the rear - the subframe was not designed for this. There is a factory specific reinforced central jack point on the front subframe, but I find it impossible to get a jack on this due to the low ground clearance of the M5.

Second, this procedure should be done with two jacks - one on each side of the car - so the car can be raised approximately level right-to-left. [It can be done with one jack, but is not as safe due to the possibility of slipping off the jack stand due to the extreme side-to-side angle and I do not recommend this.] Hard rubber jack pads improve security, as they "grip" the plastic jack blocks.

I raise the front first, from the two forward jack points, and place jack stands under the front lower control arm pivot points at the front engine cradle (not on the aluminum arms, obviously). I then raise the rear of the car from the rear jack points on each side. This should be done evenly, as the car structure is quite rigid and will lift off one side or the other at the front jack stands if uneven. Check frequently that the front jack stands are still lined up where you want them. When the rear is fully raised, I place a second set of jack stands on tubular sections of the rear subframe near the front inside of the rear wheels, where the subframe mounts to the body.

Once settled, the car is held quite securely. I have pulled the transmission a couple of times this way.

Also obviously, use high quality jacks and jack stands and make extremely sure that all the stands are securely positioned before working under the car.
You should not attempt this if you are not comfortable with the equipment and the process involved.

All of the above makes one appreciate a 4-post hydraulic lift.

Regards, Dick Roberts
I'm with RRoberts on his description on how to jack up our cars...the best thing I did to make my life easier as we work on our cars (even changing the oil, I have a hard time with the Rhino Ramps) was to buy TWO floor jacks. I bought some real nice low profile 2 ton jacks at NAPA for less than $200 each...I will never go back to jacking up one side of the car at a time...

Mark
 

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Use the FORCE Luke!!! :1: (Sorry,...couldn't resist)
:cheers:
 

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RRoberts said:
As with all things M5, there are a variety of opinions on this topic. Here are mine.

First, jacking should be done at the factory jack points and not on the suspension. Never, never put a single jack under the differential to raise the rear - the subframe was not designed for this. There is a factory specific reinforced central jack point on the front subframe, but I find it impossible to get a jack on this due to the low ground clearance of the M5.

Second, this procedure should be done with two jacks - one on each side of the car - so the car can be raised approximately level right-to-left. [It can be done with one jack, but is not as safe due to the possibility of slipping off the jack stand due to the extreme side-to-side angle and I do not recommend this.] Hard rubber jack pads improve security, as they "grip" the plastic jack blocks.

I raise the front first, from the two forward jack points, and place jack stands under the front lower control arm pivot points at the front engine cradle (not on the aluminum arms, obviously). I then raise the rear of the car from the rear jack points on each side. This should be done evenly, as the car structure is quite rigid and will lift off one side or the other at the front jack stands if uneven. Check frequently that the front jack stands are still lined up where you want them. When the rear is fully raised, I place a second set of jack stands on tubular sections of the rear subframe near the front inside of the rear wheels, where the subframe mounts to the body.

Once settled, the car is held quite securely. I have pulled the transmission a couple of times this way.

Also obviously, use high quality jacks and jack stands and make extremely sure that all the stands are securely positioned before working under the car.
You should not attempt this if you are not comfortable with the equipment and the process involved.

All of the above makes one appreciate a 4-post hydraulic lift.

Regards, Dick Roberts
If you have two jacks, by all means use Dick's method as seen above. I would caution folks concerning the link I posted a while ago. It is meant for regular 5 series e-39's, so watch out jacking near your M5's differential with all its cooling fins.

Eric
 
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