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I would buy on condition with a sound chassis and body being a first priority unless you have the patience, the means and the will to invest a large sum of money into a proper restoration such as Davidoli is currently into with RHD #66. Refer to this thread for more information.
When I bought mine in April 2001, this was exactly what I wanted too avoid, but despite that being it was a sound condition 3 (well kept driveble car with a few faults), my E28S (LHD #231) did need some serious work. Please read this thread for a helicopter view of @231's maintenance and repair records until very recently. Since a few weeks I went a little further and started to improve the underside of the car. See this thread for more details.
In the mean time, I am not afraid for mechanical faults and i'd rather prefer a dead engine or gearbox over a significantly rusted chassis/body as this is so difficult and costly to repair right. Granted this is an extreme, but bear in mind that once the stability and quality of the metal work is gone, it won't come back. An engine can be repaired and a gearbox can be overhauled into better then original condition.
Determine your budget and go for the best car that you can find. In the end, a dodgy example will cost significantly more.
When I bought mine in April 2001, this was exactly what I wanted too avoid, but despite that being it was a sound condition 3 (well kept driveble car with a few faults), my E28S (LHD #231) did need some serious work. Please read this thread for a helicopter view of @231's maintenance and repair records until very recently. Since a few weeks I went a little further and started to improve the underside of the car. See this thread for more details.
In the mean time, I am not afraid for mechanical faults and i'd rather prefer a dead engine or gearbox over a significantly rusted chassis/body as this is so difficult and costly to repair right. Granted this is an extreme, but bear in mind that once the stability and quality of the metal work is gone, it won't come back. An engine can be repaired and a gearbox can be overhauled into better then original condition.
Determine your budget and go for the best car that you can find. In the end, a dodgy example will cost significantly more.
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464 Posts
.....a knackered fuel tank? They all do that, Sir!
A fellow BMWCCGB E28 M5 owner sent me this image late last week (thank you, William, if you happen to read this!) which illustrates very nicely how an E28 can develop a serious smell of fuel, especially when full.
This particular tank has been hung underneath a car which has done nearly 200,000 miles and is still driven daily. On the other hand, my own car has yet to pass the 67k mark (and I hosed out this area very thoroughly soon after I bought the car 8 years ago) but suffice it to say the tank was replaced a couple of years ago - so it's not just about mileage.
Note the hole in the neck where it joins the main tank body. You can also see how fuel has been escaping and blowing back over the tank body itself so that if there's a drip, it's not necessarily coming from the place where the tank is actually perforated.
You can see the offending area by gently prising back the plastic liner inside the fuel filler. If it smells of fuel and/or looks damp it will need a new tank. Apparently stock of E28 tanks may soon be an issue - if so, let's hope Mobile Tradition commission another batch, because any surviving E28 can suffer this problem.
Regards as always
Mfiver
A fellow BMWCCGB E28 M5 owner sent me this image late last week (thank you, William, if you happen to read this!) which illustrates very nicely how an E28 can develop a serious smell of fuel, especially when full.
This particular tank has been hung underneath a car which has done nearly 200,000 miles and is still driven daily. On the other hand, my own car has yet to pass the 67k mark (and I hosed out this area very thoroughly soon after I bought the car 8 years ago) but suffice it to say the tank was replaced a couple of years ago - so it's not just about mileage.
Note the hole in the neck where it joins the main tank body. You can also see how fuel has been escaping and blowing back over the tank body itself so that if there's a drip, it's not necessarily coming from the place where the tank is actually perforated.
You can see the offending area by gently prising back the plastic liner inside the fuel filler. If it smells of fuel and/or looks damp it will need a new tank. Apparently stock of E28 tanks may soon be an issue - if so, let's hope Mobile Tradition commission another batch, because any surviving E28 can suffer this problem.
Regards as always
Mfiver
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I didn't know that.:dunno:
Does it then take the same uprated cam chain tensioner as the E34 motors,the S38B36/B38 units ?
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Checking the on-line ETK at RealOEM it looks like the tensioner is the same for the B36, but not the B38. It's also the same for the US S14.
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/partxref.do?part=11311307782&showus=on
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While reading up about the S38B35 engine on bmwe34m5.com, they state this motor only got the duplex chain in the final production months (late 1988 & 1989).
Perhaps not all the US E28 M5's had duplex chain systems?
Can anyone clarify this further:dunno:
The m88/3 has a simplex timing chain, so all of your ECE spec E28 M5s and nearly all of the M635CSi have the simplex chain. There were a few M635CSi with the S38B35.
All NA spec E28 M5s have the S38B35, which has a duplex timing chain (same goes for NA spec M6s).
Hi
I would check for electrical faults with instrumentation / check control.
Worn out transmission syncronisers & driveline leaks generally.
Missing parts that seem of no consequence could be missing because they are
no longer available.
Check suspension carefully.
Rear subframe beam bushes are a PITA
Front sway bar mount bushes wear out quick due to their economic diameter
relative to swaybar diameter.
If you can get the suspension geometry checked, It will tell you alot about
what the cars been doing & whats worn.
Most other issues with the car are as you would find on any Mid 1980's saloon.
Surface & structural corrosion, especially around sills & above the rear axle.
(Dry state cars may not be so prone but any areas that get the roads salted
apply)
There should pleny of evidence of spending by the previous owners.
There will be more spending from yourself.
Cheers
Farrell
I would check for electrical faults with instrumentation / check control.
Worn out transmission syncronisers & driveline leaks generally.
Missing parts that seem of no consequence could be missing because they are
no longer available.
Check suspension carefully.
Rear subframe beam bushes are a PITA
Front sway bar mount bushes wear out quick due to their economic diameter
relative to swaybar diameter.
If you can get the suspension geometry checked, It will tell you alot about
what the cars been doing & whats worn.
Most other issues with the car are as you would find on any Mid 1980's saloon.
Surface & structural corrosion, especially around sills & above the rear axle.
(Dry state cars may not be so prone but any areas that get the roads salted
apply)
There should pleny of evidence of spending by the previous owners.
There will be more spending from yourself.
Cheers
Farrell
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