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I am having a hard time deciding here.. My CPO warranty on my 2008 M5 ends 12/12/14 and I don't feel comfortable keeping it without an extended warranty. It has 68,000 miles on it now a 2yr warranty will cost about $4,000. I also need new front control arms, bushings are bad that will be another $1,000. Rear rotors and pads another $1,000. Soon a new clutch/flywheel another $2,000. So probably close to another $10,000 to keep the M5. Or I buy a new car I am looking to stay under $50,000
Cars I have been considering:
2010+ E63 AMG- how is the reliability without a warranty? I find them with around 40k miles for about $42,000
2011+ Audi S4- I like these and can find a CPO but needs to be modded to come close to M5 V10 and looks like an A4.
2010+ M3- Like them but cant find many CPO ones and also 100hp less than the V10. Reliability without warranty?
Jaguar XFR- Need to drive one, reliability?
2011+ 550i- Have read the steering is light with no feedback. Would like to find a manual very difficult..
2012 C63 AMG Coupe- Nice but more expensive a touch over $50,000 but Certified
Or.... Buy a lower mileage E60 M5 lol
Hmmmm... what to do :confused:
 

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IMO this is the best replacement for the M5

Of the 37-cars we have owned, this is the only brand my Wife trusts when the warranty is over, it is built like a brick you know what.

It will match the E60 in Ring time given the same type of tires.


http://www.landroverusa.com/our-story/news/range-rover-sport-


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=63q5kVWoUVY


BTW it is 5-db quieter at 70-mph than the E60, and the quietest car I ever owned when at 90-mph, but as you can hear in reveal video (and ring video) the dual mode exhaust makes it plenty loud.
The trick is the aerodynamics on the A-pillars and side mirrors, then the thick glass and triple door seals (for crossing streams 34" deep)

How do you like the provision for 4-pt harnesses even for the rear seat passengers (The Ring tourist track days is a Family affair, LOL)
 

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The Range Rover Sport SVR is nice but out of my price range :(
My bad, I thought you where also considering a new replacement

But with LR 3 to 4-years down the road they become extremely affordable since they still have the unreliability stigma of the days of British Ownership, in reality the reliability has gone up a 1000%.

We paid 60K for the new Ford designed LR back in 2006; now with 110,000 miles on it is worth $ 14K even though there is no sign of after warranty problems, any issues got sorted in the first 2-years
 

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2014 Audi S4 3.0T Prestige Sedan Ratings, Prices, Trims, Summary | J.D. Power

Yes the CPO warranty will give you the warm fuzzies for a long time, but it appears this price is only $4,000 below invoice price of a new 2014.

Please do a test drive on a highway with some hills if possible, the 3.0 in 3900-lb car may show noises and signs of straining you would not get with a 6.2 L V-8 in a light 3800-lb car (2012 Merc)

To take advantage of the CPO warranty you will need to drive it many years, so you better be happy with, or you will be counting down the days
 

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I’ve thought long and hard about the same but truth be told, no other car has the street credit of an “M” car. I drive mine 99.9% of the time in P400 because an M5 has nothing to prove. I’ve looked hard at the CTS-V, CLS63, C63, E63, and even the SL65 and driving any one of those I’d feel there is something to prove about the car even though they may be faster than my M5 which I don’t drive fast anymore because I realized I don’t have to. Driving fast with something to prove will only get you or someone else killed and there are many, many YouTube video’s that will attest to that. Anyway keep your M5 or get another “M” car and know you have the street credit of the baddest car out there and just enjoy.
 

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To OP

The car you own always has less surprises than the used car you buy (particularly if it has a lot of Auction sales in the Carfax back ground).

If you are good at getting people to talk, try a private seller, if seller is lying the more he talks the more likely you may find things not adding up.

My advice on Dealers:

The best lowest risk buy is a one Owner car that has been serviced only at the original purchase Dealership and turned in on trade by the happy original Owner wanting to continue to do business with the original Dealership.

A problem car with a problem service history will be sent to the Auction rather than the Dealer risking disappointing the next Customer or worse having to take the car back.

Allways understand the motivation behind a car sale:

Owners loss of confidence in Car?

Panic due to reading too many Forums?

Finances?

Change in life circumstance requires a different type of car?

IMO 70% of used cars are on the block due to anticipated high cost of impending repairs (most often due to known deferred maintenance by owner)


Good Luck, and bring several knowledgeable friends along (more eyes the better) that you know are objective and do not fall for the awesome car detailing that many Dealers invest in to put lipstick on a pig (watch for shoe polish on side seat bolsters)
 

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I’ve thought long and hard about the same but truth be told, no other car has the street credit of an “M” car. I drive mine 99.9% of the time in P400 because an M5 has nothing to prove. I’ve looked hard at the CTS-V, CLS63, C63, E63, and even the SL65 and driving any one of those I’d feel there is something to prove about the car even though they may be faster than my M5 which I don’t drive fast anymore because I realized I don’t have to. Driving fast with something to prove will only get you or someone else killed and there are many, many YouTube video’s that will attest to that. Anyway keep your M5 or get another “M” car and know you have the street credit of the baddest car out there and just enjoy.
I agree that M's have nothing to prove. They are a benchmark (at least they were in the previous generation) and although I think the new ones stand out less so than E92/E60, the badge still carries credit.

E60 M5 will go down in history as one of the greatest cars, and probably the greatest 4 door sedan of it's time. People that know what this car is will know you have nothing to prove. People who don't, will look at it and think "it's just another BMW", even if you straight pipe it and throw some racing headers on with a racing exhaust to make it meaner.
 

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Just from a cars list that I'm subscribed to at work, the guys with AMG cars seem to have costly repairs and personally, I'd rather have my M car out of warranty than an AMG car out of warranty.

I consider it an honor to own a M6 with the intoxicating V10. (even if it is costly to maintain)

Good luck with your search.
 

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I buy a lot of cars at dealer auction for my clients. There are one owner perfect loved cars with great service histories, seven owner neglected ****boxes with accident repairs, and everything in between. To say as a general rule that one should stay away from auction cars is like saying one should only buy private party. Sometimes it's true, sometimes it's not. There was just a new McLaren with 193 miles for sale in 5.0 condition with everything still wrapped in plastic. I should stay away from that??

OP, how about a 2005 MB CL65 AMG, 45K mi, with 670HP/840 lb/ft torque tune? Perfect cosmetically and mechanically (with recent MB dealer PPI and full dealer service history), newish tires, newish brakes, fully optioned, needs nothing, and it's $35.5K in perfect shape, with an original MSRP of $184,200.

And you thought the E60's depreciated quickly? :)

My clients stay in touch me with and are able to get repairs and maintenance done on AMG cars very inexpensively compared to going to an MB dealer. My experience with selling both types of cars and seeing claims under warranty for both is that they have about the same long-term cost of ownership once over 50K miles. Because I've found few places other than the dealer to do Beast repairs, and very few low-cost Beast parts sources, for me I'd rather own an out of warranty AMG than an out of warranty E60 M-car. I have yet to have a a 600 or 65 series Benz blow up a trans or motor, but I've seen both of those things multiple times on the E60.

Or I can supply it with a full coverage 3/36K warranty for an additional $5900.

Bruce
Becks Imports LLC
 

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QUOTE: "To say as a general rule that one should stay away from auction cars is like saying one should only buy private party. Sometimes it's true, sometimes it's not."

In a game of strategy I stay away from making a move when I do not know or understand the sellers motivation, you are right as stated above Bruce, but even if 90% of the auction cars are above board with complete info and history, in the absence of the Dealer willing to share prior documentation with me I do not want to risk getting the 10% that were unloaded due continuing unresolved problems.

Thanks again for sharing your valuable knowledge and experience.
 

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Agreed, buying blind from dealer vs. buying from owner with history is a no-brainer; go with the car where you can see the history. My point was just that it's not really a car issue so much as a knowledge issue. There are good and bad cars both auction and private. But you're right, the average consumer has a better chance of going over the car's history buying from the owner vs. buying from a dealer.

When I buy cars from auction, I get complete histories using the VIN# with my local dealers where I get all my cars inspected/serviced. So for me at least, it's easy between carfax and service histories from dealers to get the whole picture of the car. And therefore to my customers, who get complete histories and inspection reports, there is no difference in buying from me vs. buying privately.

Bruce
 

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If Used Car Dealers did the due diligence that you provide for your Customers, they would enjoy a better reputation, building trust and repeat clients is hard work that few invest, particularly when there is monthly quota target to be met.

Many would be wise to use your services.
 
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