BMW M5 Forum and M6 Forums banner

1 - 20 of 22 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
282 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I installed a new bumper cover today. It looks pretty good but I need to refine the fitment.

Passenger side follows the wheel arch perfectly but sticks out maybe a 1/4" from the body.

Drivers side matches the body perfectly but is about 1/4" short of following the curve of the wheel arch.

Can I get some pointers on how to finesse this? I know that the "puck" or receiver that the bumper slides into can be manipulated but I would like to know how to just move in/out side to side and back and forth front to rear. Meaning, I would like to make just the adjustments I need rather than loosening everything and kind of trying to figure it out on the fly.

Thanks!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,918 Posts
Is it OEM or aftermarket?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
282 Posts
Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
It's Aftermarket. It is an ABS unit from Umnitza. This is very close to my factory one. It is not their lower grade poly part. I am pretty happy with it over all. Other than not having the cutouts for the headlight washers (which I cut in), it really does look just like the original. Yes, there was some molding slag that had to be trimmed in the fog light tab area. Also had to trim for PDC (just like on original). But other than that, so far so good. Just hope to tweak it in to position.

Just as a point of reference, The original BMW bumper was sticking out on the passenger side as well. The driver side is a new development....
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
750 Posts
I have heard that people can occasionally "finesse" the fit but I am not so sure. I have bought both OEM and aftermarket and I have not seen how to get the "puck" to slide further back as the aluminum bumper bar "bottoms out" on the two bumper shock supports. I think the problem is that when the original bumper was copied in a mold by the aftermarket producers there was no way to predict and furthermore correct for "relaxation" of the material. Note that most all copies are polypropylene and not ABS and this may be causing the difference. This has been talked about forever and basically my opinion is that with aftermarket there is a real good chance that the fit will be off by 1/2" on the sides and that's life. The only way to correct is if the bumper shocks could be mounted 1/2" further inboard (but they can't).
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
282 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
The fitment of the new bumper is very close to what there was with the original. You think BMW would have tried to align better or maybe thats as good as it gets???

Original Passenger Side:



New Passenger Side:



Original Driver Side:



New Driver Side:

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
816 Posts
I was just talking with someone about this. I was thinking that in order to get the aftermarket bumper to line up better, couldn't you just remove the brackets from each side of the front end of the car and space them towards the rear a little bit by putting washers in between the bracket and body so that it pulls the bumper back a hair more? Just a thought as I cannot recall which way that bracket mounts. If it mounts on the front side, that won't work.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,597 Posts
That does not look bad at all, especially in comparison to OEM. If you want to finesse it a bit more, it helps to have a second set of hands push the sides in and up as you fit the bumper from the front.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
750 Posts
Ohh, I didn't realize we were talking side-to-side clearance. The bumper side and fender should be close to flush. Just take your three middle fingers, reach inside the fender well above the bumper, and pull! Well, at least that's what I did. On the opposite side simply reverse by pushing. I'm actually not kidding. What the official manner of adjustment is, I don't know.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
282 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
So I pulled the lower fender liners to get access to the bolts that hold the support that hold the bumper at the sides. Loosening the two bolts that are behind the lower fender liner will give you quite a bit of adjustment. I was able to get the passenger side adjusted and I am very happy with it now.

The driver side, where it is coming up short in alignment with the wheel arch, is another story. I loosened up the two bolts that hold the bumper carrier and really gave it a some pushing. No success as I could hear the shock mount "clunk" against the carrier. I though maybe it was that the bolts had run out of adjustment play. So I pulled the bolt out completely to see what I would have. It turns out that its not that bolt is holding up the adjustment, it is the mount on the shock bottoming out against the front of the carrier. I am pretty sure that if I were to cut notches at the top and bottom of the carrier where the mount is I could get the adjustment I need. Alternatively, I could cut 45 degree chamfer on the top and bottom on the front side of the mount that would allow the bumper to slide back just a bit more. It was tough to get my fingers up in there but as far as I can tell, it just is bottoming at the top and bottom. Worst case, I would just cut a complete channel across the face of the carrier.

That said, I am not taking this whole thing back apart to get that carrier out to start modifying. Definitely something to do preemptively. I could try the 45 chamfer on the mounts. Maybe later.

Here is the passenger side fully adjusted:


Here is the driver side fully adjusted:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
631 Posts
Did you delete the headlights washers?
I am wanting to do this but have heard the terminated ends (screw/clamp) are at very high pressure?

Can somebody weigh in on cons of plugging the bumper washers?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,061 Posts
Did you delete the headlights washers?
I am wanting to do this but have heard the terminated ends (screw/clamp) are at very high pressure?

Can somebody weigh in on cons of plugging the bumper washers?
If you're worried about that just unplug the pump motor for that intensive washer tank up by the shock tower on the right (passenger) side.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
282 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
Did you delete the headlights washers?
I am wanting to do this but have heard the terminated ends (screw/clamp) are at very high pressure?

Can somebody weigh in on cons of plugging the bumper washers?
No, I did not remove the headlight washers. I will tell you, these were a pain to cut in. Maybe someone has a better process than me but it took a while and I practiced on my old bumper first. These need to fit in tightly. While there are spring clips that also assist in keeping them in place, a fair portion is just interference fit.

The tools I used were:
Small files - flat and rounded
Key hole saw - the smaller the better
Exacto knife
5/8" flat blade drill bit - I went with this because it has points on the outer edge that cut slightly ahead of the blade. I was worried that using a normal bit, once it broke through, would just screw rather than cut.
Easy release tape - Use lots of this to mask the working area.

Step 1:
Find your locating marks. You will need to find some common points on the bumper you can use for alignment.

Step 2:
Take some of the quick release tape and mask over your old washer holes. A couple of layers for this works well. Now, cut out the design of the washer hole.

Step 3:
Transfer your cutout over to the new bumper. Make sure you have it matched to your alignment marks.

Step 4:
Drill out two holes with you 5/8 bit. You will have just enough room to do this with out them intersecting.

Step 5:
Using keyhole saw, cut the web between the two holes. You can also use this to cut the 90 degree corner.

Step 6:
Use your small files to rough in the rest of the major hole.

Step 7:
Use the key hole saw to rough in the three notches. Once you have the notch at the bottom cut, you can start using the washer assembly for clearance fitment. I recommend that you do this first then move on to the other two notches. The two notches on the outside edge (left and right) are for the spring clip. Be careful not to over cut these. Go to far out and the spring clips wont work.

Step 8:
Clean up the holes you have been working on. Use the washer assembly as your fitment guide. You want the assembly to fit nice and tight but also be able to get it in and out. Use your old bumper as your guide, you will get a feel for how it should fit.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,548 Posts
That does not look bad at all, especially in comparison to OEM. If you want to finesse it a bit more, it helps to have a second set of hands push the sides in and up as you fit the bumper from the front.
THIS

I noticed while test fitting my new OEM bumper that it wasn't lining up, and that was because it was sliding from the opposite side. You need to put it where you want it and hold it in place tightly while someone puts the plastic pins in place... which brings me to my question. WHat are you guys using to replace the original plastic "rivets"? I ordered a bunch from BMW and they are the typical push pin type that have a head on it. My originals did not have a head on them but rather were flush like a true rivet...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
282 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
THIS

I noticed while test fitting my new OEM bumper that it wasn't lining up, and that was because it was sliding from the opposite side. You need to put it where you want it and hold it in place tightly while someone puts the plastic pins in place... which brings me to my question. WHat are you guys using to replace the original plastic "rivets"? I ordered a bunch from BMW and they are the typical push pin type that have a head on it. My originals did not have a head on them but rather were flush like a true rivet...
I agree. This definitely is one of the fitment factors. However, what I ran to on my car with the headlight washers and PDC, was that the factory did not cut away enough of the aluminum carrier and either my PDC wouldn't fit or my washer clips wouldn't fit. If I were to do this again, i would have really done some work on that carrier...

Regarding the push pins, I just reused mine. But the other day I was in the hardware store and saw these back in the automotive bins back by the nuts and bolts. Just eyeballing them, they looked like they would work. The flat head that the BMW ones come with are nice, but as you probably found out, they just break apart when you try to use your panel tool to pop them up. I just used a flat head punch that fit the hole and tapped them out from the other side.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,632 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
631 Posts
I can't be the only wanting to cap/delete headlamp washers.
Besides "pull fuse" and "disc pump" (I want to keep service to windshield) anybody simply cap/zip tie/stow the hoses? Issues?

Forgive my fervor but...need to order real soon.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,632 Posts
I can't be the only wanting to cap/delete headlamp washers.
Besides "pull fuse" and "disc pump" (I want to keep service to windshield) anybody simply cap/zip tie/stow the hoses? Issues?

Forgive my fervor but...need to order real soon.
If you don't mind replacing the feed hose for the windshield washer nozzles...
<TABLE cellSpacing=0 border=0> <TBODY> <TR> <TD class=r10>02</TD> <TD class="r11 i0">INTENSIVE CLEANING SYSTEM HOSE</TD> <TD class="r10 p1"></TD> <TD class=r11>1</TD> <TD class=r10></TD> <TD class=r11></TD> <TD class=r10 noWrap>61608364209</TD> <TD class=r11 noWrap align=right>$59.75</TD> <TD class=r10></TD> <TD> <CENTER></CENTER></TD></TR> <TR> <TD class=r10> <TD class=r11 noWrap>COMPRISES AMONG OTHERS
WIRING SET</TD> <TD class=r10> <TD colSpan=7></TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>


This should work and retain the intensive wash but without supply to the headlight washers. But I am only guessing here.
Also, you will need to disconnect the headlight washer pump's electrical feed in the main windshield washer fluid reservoir.

Pre-winter inspection of my 2002 windshield washer system - Bimmerfest - BMW Forums
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
515 Posts
If you're interested here are the fitment instructions from TIS
View attachment 469098

View attachment 469106
The TIS doesnt mention the size of the cap screw to adjust... I'm not sure if I should be using a 14mm or a 1/2" (13mm) allen socket and I already stripped one of them. I got another set and the 14MM fits pretty tight, i'd have to hammer the allen head into the screw to make it fit.. but the 1/2" feels like it would strip the plastic cap screw.

I left it soaking with pb blaster over night to loosen the cap screw, but before I go on the hunt for a 1/2" hex socket, does anyone know what the 'official size' of what should be used?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10,304 Posts
The official size is not 1/2" you will make a mess of things on this car using imperial tools, everything is metric size. If you can get a 1/2" on it, then 12 mm likely. Get metric wrenches or you will strip a ton of bolts.
Don't know why this did not go in line but it is a reply to @Manny G. question up in the middle somewhere.
 
1 - 20 of 22 Posts
Top