Same compression gauge and the injectors still live on both tests.Absolutely, the junkyard motor can gain compression, after its rings start moving better, and "reseal". But be aware also that there are other possible factors: different gauge; different test procedure.....like, maybe the fuel was being delivered the first test, but not on the second test? (Fuel washes away compression)
No , some idiot stopped in the opposing traffic lane on a red light then decided to try and squeeze past my front bumper when oncoming traffic starting coming. I couldn't reverse and he kept coming in spite of me blowing the horn.Damn, just noticed the bumper skin.....have you been punting motorbikes?
The rear bar is from our E34 M5 parts car Eurotrash after a motorbike slammed into the back of the 530 three years agoLooks like an m-tech rear bar, but standard 530i front? Better the front than the back then...
I like it !Hi Tony,
Most likely intake leaks on that engine will be the front and rear manifold covers, including the hoses on the rear cover, or an "internal" crankcase vent leak, from the rear diaphragm of the Pressure Control Valve (which is the rear manifold cover)..
To test for the internal leak, or other crankcase vent issues, you need a slack-tube manometer. I bought one, but you can make one, VERY cheaply and easily. It requires nothing more than an extra oil-fill cap for the valvecover, some clear silicone hose, some water with dye in it, and a tape measure.
Here's a link to a thread that shows how to make it: I gave dworthy directions, so he could make his own. See post 183. You can also use this on the dipstick tube, I'm told.
Oil consumption after CCV replacement - Page 8
The crankcase vacuum on a BMW engine should be 3 to 6 inches of WATER -- note, NOT MERCURY! That's why a vacuum gauge doesn't work; pretty much all automotive ones are calibrated in inches of Mercury.
One inch of mercury equals about 13.4 inches of water, from memory/
If you find that you need to do the rear manifold cover, let me tell you a few tricks to help.
History repeats ... just over 1 year and 14,000kms later , the Nikasil M60B40 was running great until about 1 week ago then I noticed the edge dropping off on power over 4,000km. Oil consumption jumped from NIL between oil changes to around 1 liter per 500kms. Now it's puffing smoke out the oil filler cap when I open it. 3 attempts to start now when it would previously instantly fire up.The day has finally arrived to retire the Nikasil M60B30 at 183,400km (19.4k kms after my last post on this thread)
It's been hard to start the last few weeks but now it's really loosing compression (one cylinder down to 100psi), it's puffing smoke like a steam train out the oil filler cap (with the cap off) so at least 1 cylinder is pressurizing the sump on each compression stroke and using a liter of oil every 400kms. The inside the intake manifold it's coated with oil residue.
Last night the water temp gauge was right tangent to centre for the first time since the new cooling system went in so things are starting to heat up in the engine.
There's at least 1 but maybe 2 cylinders that are not producing power.
We started to see the power drop off 6 months ago on the dyno.
Today I'll do a final compression test and have a look with the borescope before we pull the engine.
We don't know if the junkyard M60B40 runs , it turns over by hand and looks ok so we'll see in a few days.
Update: Compression on all cylinders between 140 and 160 except cylinder 7 which is 95.
The engine still runs ok but burns oil now , still pulls hard but the edge has gone.Anything over 200 is really unusual in my opinion.
I think something else was wrong, and it detontated itself to destruction.
I have never heard any M60s detonate.