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I'd have to suspect the electric side of the ignition switch, Tony.
 

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Discussion Starter #163 (Edited)
540/5 on the way to Lombok

Sending my 540/5 down to Lombok Island.

I have a project down there for a month.

It's the next Island over from Bali.

It will take the boys 4 days to drive down for 1,400km and 2 ferry crossings

Hood up just to let things cool right down during a dinner break.


.
 

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I bet "the boys" will remember this road trip forever :)

love the colour btw, it's quite rare and shame about the bonnet not matching, I suppose it would be a nightmare trying to get it to match again?

the seats look like HARD work to restore to me, when I did my seats it took a whole weekend and they really need several more to be nice again... I suspect yours would take quote some time, but, it does look like dirt to me
 

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Discussion Starter #165 (Edited)
It took the boys 3 days and 2 nights to drive down and 2 days and 2 nights to get back (more motivated on the way home)

Sounds like the oil pump is on the way out or is loose so the sump will come off this Saturday to check.

I was getting some slight bearing knock on a cold start but that's cleared up after the trip back.

Today we did a compression check and it's improved since the junkyard engine was installed 7,000kms ago , weird , 190 to 200psi on all cylinders

Initially the compression was marginal when the engine was installed back in September

C1 160psi
C2 170psi
C3 170psi
C4 170psi
C5 160psi
C6 150psi*
C7 150psi*
C8 160psi

Has anyone seen this before ? Compression increasing after use ? It's possible this engine has been sitting for a number of years.
 

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Hi Tony!

I assume there are some ferries involved in that drive? What kind of plane have you found there?

As regards you car that won't shut off:
Go to wedophones.com/BMWManualsLead.htm

Pull up wiring diagrams for '95 530i....that's what I used for this research. Go to page 35 of the Adobe document (0670.2-04) This is under power distribution.

You'll see the ignition switch, positions 0,1,2,3. Position 2 is "run". When key is turned to 0 or 1, power stops going to the items that run the engine, via the 4mm green wire from the ignition switch. I'd have to believe that when hot, the ignition switch is still delivering power to that green wire, keeping everything running.

Easy enough to check, if you already have the lower clamshell off the steering column when this occurs.....just hook up a test light, and see if the green wire's still hot with the switch off. If it is, the ignition switch (electrical side) is bad.

All the best on your new adventure!

Chris
 

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Discussion Starter #167 (Edited)
Thanks Chris, that's very helpful in finally solving the ignition problem

There were 2 ferry crossings on the trip , Java to Bali which is a short hop then Bali to Lombok which is 3 or 4 hours.

I'm providing project support to an aircraft manufacturer doing a major repair on an aircraft damaged in a landing accident.

On the compression reading differences have you ever seen zombie junkyard engines increase their compression readings after use ?

The M60B40 has gone from 150-170 range of readings to 190-200psi
 

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Absolutely, the junkyard motor can gain compression, after its rings start moving better, and "reseal". But be aware also that there are other possible factors: different gauge; different test procedure.....like, maybe the fuel was being delivered the first test, but not on the second test? (Fuel washes away compression)

Damn, just noticed the bumper skin.....have you been punting motorbikes? ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #169
Absolutely, the junkyard motor can gain compression, after its rings start moving better, and "reseal". But be aware also that there are other possible factors: different gauge; different test procedure.....like, maybe the fuel was being delivered the first test, but not on the second test? (Fuel washes away compression)
Same compression gauge and the injectors still live on both tests.

I'll pull the fuel pump fuse next time


Damn, just noticed the bumper skin.....have you been punting motorbikes? ;)
No , some idiot stopped in the opposing traffic lane on a red light then decided to try and squeeze past my front bumper when oncoming traffic starting coming. I couldn't reverse and he kept coming in spite of me blowing the horn.
 

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Discussion Starter #171 (Edited)
Looks like an m-tech rear bar, but standard 530i front? Better the front than the back then...
The rear bar is from our E34 M5 parts car Eurotrash after a motorbike slammed into the back of the 530 three years ago

I've bought a set of fiberglass M5 front and rear replica bumpers which will go on the 540 project during this year.

The 540 is slowly evolving into the 'Millennium 5' the fastest hunk of junk (on a budget) in Jakarta.

I'm really pleased with the 540/5 as a daily driver , I don't get too upset when motorbikes scratch it , it handles broken up roads well. Will sit on 160 to 180kmh all day and drive through 20cm flash floods without complaint. Handles ok , stops well with M5 brakes and is fun to drive.

.
 

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Discussion Starter #172 (Edited)
Just when you start to enjoy having a nice running E34 a new problem

A lumpy intermittent idle especially when the B40 is warm it seems to be getting worse.

So far

Compression test showing 190 - 200psi (ok)

A new set of plugs went in today, problem was gone on start up then returned.

Checked all the coils , 0.5 to 0.6 ohms and idle drops when each coil is disconnected so it's getting fuel and spark to each cylinder

I'm starting to suspect a vacuum leak.

Tomorrow

- will be checking for leaks around the manifold with some carb cleaner and retorque the manifold bolts and have a look around (no smoke machine)

- ECU reset

- Change the fuel filter

- Swap the fuel regulator valve over from the B30
 

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Hi Tony,

Most likely intake leaks on that engine will be the front and rear manifold covers, including the hoses on the rear cover, or an "internal" crankcase vent leak, from the rear diaphragm of the Pressure Control Valve (which is the rear manifold cover)..

To test for the internal leak, or other crankcase vent issues, you need a slack-tube manometer. I bought one, but you can make one, VERY cheaply and easily. It requires nothing more than an extra oil-fill cap for the valvecover, some clear silicone hose, some water with dye in it, and a tape measure.

Here's a link to a thread that shows how to make it: I gave dworthy directions, so he could make his own. See post 183. You can also use this on the dipstick tube, I'm told.

http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?1629018-Oil-consumption-after-CCV-replacement/page8

The crankcase vacuum on a BMW engine should be 3 to 6 inches of WATER -- note, NOT MERCURY! That's why a vacuum gauge doesn't work; pretty much all automotive ones are calibrated in inches of Mercury.

One inch of mercury equals about 13.4 inches of water, from memory/

If you find that you need to do the rear manifold cover, let me tell you a few tricks to help.
 

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Discussion Starter #174
Hi Tony,

Most likely intake leaks on that engine will be the front and rear manifold covers, including the hoses on the rear cover, or an "internal" crankcase vent leak, from the rear diaphragm of the Pressure Control Valve (which is the rear manifold cover)..

To test for the internal leak, or other crankcase vent issues, you need a slack-tube manometer. I bought one, but you can make one, VERY cheaply and easily. It requires nothing more than an extra oil-fill cap for the valvecover, some clear silicone hose, some water with dye in it, and a tape measure.

Here's a link to a thread that shows how to make it: I gave dworthy directions, so he could make his own. See post 183. You can also use this on the dipstick tube, I'm told.

Oil consumption after CCV replacement - Page 8

The crankcase vacuum on a BMW engine should be 3 to 6 inches of WATER -- note, NOT MERCURY! That's why a vacuum gauge doesn't work; pretty much all automotive ones are calibrated in inches of Mercury.

One inch of mercury equals about 13.4 inches of water, from memory/

If you find that you need to do the rear manifold cover, let me tell you a few tricks to help.
I like it !

The B40 isn't burning any oil but there's also a miss and occasional pop cruising at any speed under 3k rpm

Engine still pulls like a train but it was super smooth before this problem
 

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Discussion Starter #175
I think we found the problem

A spray around the intake manifold with carb cleaner found no obvious vacuum leaks

Next step was the Peake code reader which displayed the following errors

Injector error for cylinders 1 to 8

DWA EWS error

Reset the ECU with a battery disconnect for 20 mins and then decided to pull the ECU also and found a bent pin , middle row fourth from the fender from memory

Just done a 50 km trip of tollway and traffic this afternoon and the engine now seems normal
 

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Discussion Starter #176 (Edited)
The day has finally arrived to retire the Nikasil M60B30 at 183,400km (19.4k kms after my last post on this thread)

It's been hard to start the last few weeks but now it's really loosing compression (one cylinder down to 100psi), it's puffing smoke like a steam train out the oil filler cap (with the cap off) so at least 1 cylinder is pressurizing the sump on each compression stroke and using a liter of oil every 400kms. The inside the intake manifold it's coated with oil residue.

Last night the water temp gauge was right tangent to centre for the first time since the new cooling system went in so things are starting to heat up in the engine.

There's at least 1 but maybe 2 cylinders that are not producing power.

We started to see the power drop off 6 months ago on the dyno.

Today I'll do a final compression test and have a look with the borescope before we pull the engine.

We don't know if the junkyard M60B40 runs , it turns over by hand and looks ok so we'll see in a few days.

Update: Compression on all cylinders between 140 and 160 except cylinder 7 which is 95.
History repeats ... just over 1 year and 14,000kms later , the Nikasil M60B40 was running great until about 1 week ago then I noticed the edge dropping off on power over 4,000km. Oil consumption jumped from NIL between oil changes to around 1 liter per 500kms. Now it's puffing smoke out the oil filler cap when I open it. 3 attempts to start now when it would previously instantly fire up.

I filled up at the service station closest to my house last week as running late for a meeting and I think I got another bad batch of fuel , supposedly 95 octane was pinging like crazy in 4th and 5th gear at 2k - 2.5k rpm. I normally only use Shell V Power. I think this is the 'x factor' in this failure. The same service station where I filled when my M5 engine failed 30kms later.

We tested the compression today and unfortunately another M60 bites the dust.

It was a $900 junk yard engine so I was half expecting this but it was running so well I thought I got lucky.

Now on the hunt for another B40 or B44 , I can probably get another 1 or 2 months out of this engine if I take it easy. Not an easy engine to find in Indonesia.

I keep dreaming of a new LS3 or LS7 with a 6 speed in this car ... something with steel cylinder liners, not a fan of aluminum bores with our variable quality fuel
 

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Anything over 200 is really unusual in my opinion.

I think something else was wrong, and it detontated itself to destruction.

I have never heard any M60s detonate.
 

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Discussion Starter #178
Anything over 200 is really unusual in my opinion.

I think something else was wrong, and it detontated itself to destruction.

I have never heard any M60s detonate.
The engine still runs ok but burns oil now , still pulls hard but the edge has gone.

It was pinging not detonating and to stop it I just changed down a gear and re-engaged 5th at a higher rpm

The 530 engine did exactly the same thing in 4th / 5th gear on light acceleration at 2 to 2.5k rpm , must be the fuel here
 

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Discussion Starter #179
I was hoping it might be a stuck valve so the boys redid the compression test with 2 capfuls of oil in the bad cylinder.

Compression jumped from 110 to 160 psi so it's definitely a bore / ring issue
 

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Ouch.

The M62 bores melt if the engine ever gets hot. Overheat; "two miles from home"

And, crap, your engine is one of the old ones, huh? Do you know if it's Alusil or Nikasil;? The original engines HATED bad gas, and BMW had to replace the entire production of alusil / nikasil (?I forget?) motors in the USA, where there was too much sulfur in the fuel, or so they say.

Chris
 
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