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Discussion Starter #121
Personally, I like a coolant temp of 187 to 192 F. This will have a center, or hair right of center gauge reading.
Chris, I took note of the fans switching on and off today

Front fan is 80/88 deg C

Puller fan is 91/99 deg C

The fans are alternating between 88 and 91 deg C (190 to 195 deg F) in normal operation.

In very heavy traffic (before the vents) and on extended idling the fan would trigger very rarely (99 deg C)

I got a surprise today, turning off the engine and parking the 540 after 15 mins the front fan didn't switch on for a minute (it triggers at 80 deg C / 176 deg F) so the vents are very good at letting heat out from the engine bay

I'll see how the temps behave at the next track day but I think this problem is solved with a good safety margin.
 

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Discussion Starter #122 (Edited)
An update on the cooling holes , very effective

It's dramatically reduced the under hood temperatures and the hottest the 540 gets now is a dead on the middle marker on the water temp gauge

A good option (or louvres) for hot climate , track cars or forced induction vehicles

 

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Discussion Starter #123
Now we have the milling machine I had the boys make up some billet aluminium covers for the front 'speed holes'

Not sure if it looks worse or better ?

If I use them the will be anodized in flat black and attached with 5mm allen head bolts.

Next year the 540 is being repainted in Schwarz II the same color scheme as my M5.

The cooling holes are very effective now need to find a way to make it easier on the eyes.

I can live with the 4 holes near the windscreen but the front ones hit you in the face.

I'm still mulling over whether to keep the holes or go for a single louvre each side ?

It's certainly got some attention in car parks.
 

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Discussion Starter #124 (Edited)
Seems like my 'speed holes' weren't such a dumb idea.

The cooling holes are extremely effective , my 540 has gone from running over centre (slightly) to left tangent to centre on the water temp gauge and on the hottest days stuck in traffic the needle sits dead centre.

The amount of heat haze coming out of the holes is surprising.

I've removed the insulation from under the engine hood and during heavy rain this week I had steam rising from the bonnet with dry patches for about 30 seconds until the rain cooled things down

I've never heard of an E46 M3 GTR (or the P60B40 V8 engine) before tonight but they've taken the concept one step further and completely diverted hot air from the radiator via ducts to exhaust louvres in the bonnet

From a reliability and performance view I like the idea of getting hot air out of the engine bay a.s.a.p.


.
 

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The big hole in the 'vette's hood releases air into a low pressure area. That air just came through the radiator. Most important is to keep that air from going underneath a race car, Hot air rises.

The base of the windshield is a high pressure area, at speed. You'll see the engine air intake at the base of the windshield.

You need bigger holes; NACA ducts are excellent, but only at speed....
 

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Discussion Starter #126
The big hole in the 'vette's hood releases air into a low pressure area. That air just came through the radiator. Most important is to keep that air from going underneath a race car, Hot air rises.

The base of the windshield is a high pressure area, at speed. You'll see the engine air intake at the base of the windshield.

You need bigger holes; NACA ducts are excellent, but only at speed....
All good ideas for the track car when we finally get around to it.

For the moment the goal on the 540 was to stop it overheating in heavy traffic and that's been achieved.
 

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Discussion Starter #129
Meanwhile my 1979 Jeep J20 'Honcho GTS' project got ventilated also

This vent can be opened and closed.

A few weeks into using the 'speed holes' on the 540 and I can report there has been zero problems (electrical or other) from large equatorial storms dropping rain into the engine compartment
 

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Discussion Starter #130 (Edited)
Speed Hole Covers installed

Finished my aluminum billet cooling hole covers and installing them today

Looks a lot better painted flat black


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Discussion Starter #131 (Edited)
E60 Style 172 19"x8.5/9.5 on an E34

E60 Style 172 19"x8.5/9.5 on an E34

I've been looking around for the best value for money wheels for the 540 project.

I like the E46 CSL style wheels but they're too expensive , same with BBS

Good M-Pars , none on the market here at the moment and a lot of them are egg shaped and cracked.

I have 2 sets of M-Pars , 1 good set and a set that's unusable . The good M-Pars are going on my M5

So looking around and I'm finding complete sets of E60 Style 172s on the second hand market for $500 to $800 (this is a budget DD build)

19" will get around a lot of the wider tyre size problems we are seeing for 17" and 18" rims and the style 172 offsets will work with an E34, for the rears I may have to roll the fender inner lip

I missed out on a set today but eventually a set will turn up , something different and the Style 172s are very well engineered
 

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A couple of questions:

Are you really sure 32 offset fits?
Have you considered the huge cost increase for 19's? My Pilot SS's in 17" cost ~$150 each, in 18" they run $200; I priced 19's for a customer, they run $340 each.
You know that the 19's have no air to cushion potholes, and are very easy to bend because of this? Some sidewall height is nice on the street.

Damn, those things are HEAVY! 9 pounds each heavier than my 18 x 9's, that's 36 pounds of rotating mass, like adding 180 pounds to the car!

I don't know the hub bore on an E60, but an E39 uses a larger bore than the E34, so E39 wheels are not hub centric on our cars.

They are beautiful, though, assuming you find some that haven't been curbed..
 

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Discussion Starter #133

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Discussion Starter #135 (Edited)

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That would be raising the offset, you would need the opposite (spacers). Also, 18's are the largest I would recommend on an e34, 19's are just too big and tend to look disproportionate unless the car is really low

Is it a huge pain to have new wheels shipped overseas? Apex race parts sells lightweight wheels that look similar to a BMW factory wheel - Home - APEX Race Parts

I've hard ARC-8's and EC-7's on my e39 m5 and have been happy with the quality (and price!)
 

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+1 to all Jcbe34 has said, Tony. And spacers will make the package heavier, wheels like Apex 18's will be much lighter, and not require spacers. Spacers 10mm or less are rather unsuitable; you lose your hub centric with 8mm spacers, and the 10's tend to break.

Also, check ECS Tuning. They had a special on some pretty 9x18s and / or these plus 10x 18's, staggered fitment, especially for E34s: $550 for a set of 4 !!!!

EDIT:
https://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E34-M5-S38_3.5L/Wheels/Aftermarket_Alloys/ES2695661/
 

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+1. Note, please note that "modifying the rear trailing arms" MIGHT just consist of grinding away the seam/weld, on 2 inches of the outside arm edge. The exact offset range where this occurs, given any diameter wheel, I can't say exactly. But yes, I have cut the hell out of that seam, even given stitch rewelding when necessary. (For racing....you didn't think the E28 fit a 13" wide slick by itself, did ya?) ;)

I mean, you're cutting an E34 530....anything is allowed! Just want you to know whatever I can offer! Our wonderful Turbinadi friend Eero is pretty damned good at this tire and wheel stuff, too!
 
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