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Discussion Starter #1
Folks,

After experiencing severe battery drain for some time, the car has been left unattended long enough for the battery to lose all its juice. As such, I cannot even unlock the car manually!

I assume the drivers door lock is electronically operated, as turning the key does nothing. To add af further headach, the pasenger door lock does not fuction as it should, rendering me unable to gain access to the cabin. The boot still oepns but as the seats are fixed I cannot get in.

I've tried repetedly to unlock the passenger door but am having no luck.

Any suggestions before I break a window? :grrrr:

Cheers,

Simon
 

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Is it not possible to open the bonnet from the outside, then you can start the car from the positive terminal in the engine bay???
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I didn't know it was possible to open the bonnet from the outside. How is this done?
 

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Hi, if the passenger door feature isn't used for while it can lock up, try both doors well before smashing any glass!
 

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I just remembered, i've seen cigarette sockets in boots before, you could connect to this to charge the car enough to unlock it.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Not cigarette socket but I do have a towbar with socket.

Could I attach some jump leads to the towbar?? ouich
 

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when you say you can't unlock the door manually, have you tried the proper no-power procedure, i.e. hold up the door handle while turning the key to unlock ?

failing that, you have a few electric options in the boot. there is 3 lights which should come on when you open it, 2 in the lid and one under the parcel tray. if you take out the parcel tray light and connect power to the terminals (watch polarity !!) you'll be able to pop the doors elecrically.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
when you say you can't unlock the door manually, have you tried the proper no-power procedure, i.e. hold up the door handle while turning the key to unlock ?

failing that, you have a few electric options in the boot. there is 3 lights which should come on when you open it, 2 in the lid and one under the parcel tray. if you take out the parcel tray light and connect power to the terminals (watch polarity !!) you'll be able to pop the doors elecrically.

Sort of. I've had no luck on the Passenger door, but haven't paid too much attention to the drivers door (I was told to focus on the passenger door)

When you say polarity, what you you mean (sorry I know bugger all about electrics)? I assume it's not as simpe as hooking up a set of jump leads to the boot wiring?
 

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passenger and driver door will be exactly the same manual unlock procedure. give it a try, it's a lot less hassle than messing around with makeshift power.

as for said makeshift power...
just as you say, it's as simple as hooking up two leads. when i say polarity, i'm just saying you need to make sure you hook up plus-to-plus, minus-to-minus.

if you're using the little light under the parcel tray as your attachment point the positive wire will be red with white-stripe according to my wiring diagram.
 

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I had this problem years ago with a 1989/F 525i and I was told to concentrate on the passenger door which was next to a garage pillar and not accessible - it did not work, but fortunately DID work on the drivers door - give it a go you have nothing to loose...

If you want to check wiring polarity to try to activate the c/locking with a battery, then use a DVM (digital volt meter) set to read Ohms and check the resistance between the boot light wires and the car body, to do this you should also press the boot light switch down to disconnect the battery from the circuit. Measure both sides of the bulb holder and one connection will give a reading of about zero ohms and that will be side to connect to the negative side of the battery / jump leads / battery charger.

If it were my car, I'd use a battery charger with a fuse of no more than 10A just in case you get anything wrong, a set of leads to another fully charged battery could cause expensive damage if connected incorrectly.

A cheap DVM should only be about a tenner from someone like Maplin Electronics

Sort of. I've had no luck on the Passenger door, but haven't paid too much attention to the drivers door (I was told to focus on the passenger door)
 

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Discussion Starter #11
passenger and driver door will be exactly the same manual unlock procedure. give it a try, it's a lot less hassle than messing around with makeshift power.

as for said makeshift power...
just as you say, it's as simple as hooking up two leads. when i say polarity, i'm just saying you need to make sure you hook up plus-to-plus, minus-to-minus.

if you're using the little light under the parcel tray as your attachment point the positive wire will be red with white-stripe according to my wiring diagram.

Cheers mate.

Just spoken to my mechanic. he had exactly the same problem when he serviced it a couple of weeks back. He said he had no joy (with the manual override procedure) on the drivers side and was only successful on the passenger side after a lot of cursing!

It seems the mechanism is just badly worn and therefore wont allow me to unlock as per the instruction manaul (i don't have a blipper, just a key).

Bootlight may well be an option. Is it going to be safe to attach the jump leads to it?
 

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I've done it before. The light is connected directly to the main power bus via a 10amp fuse. i'd say it's pretty safe if you're confident.
If it were my car, I'd use a battery charger with a fuse of no more than 10A just in case you get anything wrong, a set of leads to another fully charged battery could cause expensive damage if connected incorrectly.
That's pretty sound advice as well, if you have a low-current source such as a charger i'd do that for extra safety.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I've done it before. The light is connected directly to the main power bus via a 10amp fuse. i'd say it's pretty safe if you're confident.


That's pretty sound advice as well, if you have a low-current source such as a charger i'd do that for extra safety.

Hmmm, not really. I live in a top floor flat so getting A/C power to the car is not really feasable. If the emergency opening really is a no go then I'm happy to hook up some leads on the basis that the positive is red and white and vise versa.

The other possibility my mechanic mentioned, is to jack the car up and attach the positive lead to the main alternator feed from the battery. Would this be straight forward do you think?
 

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starter motor is probably easier than alternator, but either way you have to get under the car. if you have the air-shields in place you hvae to take them off too.

i'd go for the boot light for sure. As soon as the doors are unlocked disconnect it. do so before you actually open the doors ! you want to minimise the amount of power running down these thin wires.

I'm 100% certain the positive wire from that light is red/white
 

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Discussion Starter #15
starter motor is probably easier than alternator, but either way you have to get under the car. if you have the air-shields in place you hvae to take them off too.

i'd go for the boot light for sure. As soon as the doors are unlocked disconnect it. do so before you actually open the doors ! you want to minimise the amount of power running down these thin wires.

I'm 100% certain the positive wire from that light is red/white
If I can source a ~30m length of cable I'll run a charger to the car. If not, it's jump leads or nowt!
 

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Are you sure you are doing the manual procedure properly. It works on both front doors. Gently try to turn the cylinder whilst lifting the latch about half way. You just have to fiddle with it to reach the correct combination/timing of turning and lifting and it should open. I went throught the same frustration until I learned the technique.
Unless, of course, the team that built your car left this feature out:blink:
Good luck.
 

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If I can source a ~30m length of cable I'll run a charger to the car. If not, it's jump leads or nowt!

If you use a charger plugged into the mains, i'll know who to blame when the power in the street goes out later tonight!! :hihi:
 

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Discussion Starter #18 (Edited)
Are you sure you are doing the manual procedure properly. It works on both front doors. Gently try to turn the cylinder whilst lifting the latch about half way. You just have to fiddle with it to reach the correct combination/timing of turning and lifting and it should open. I went throught the same frustration until I learned the technique.
Unless, of course, the team that built your car left this feature out:blink:
Good luck.

Terry,

Which direction do I turn the lock? The manual says to turn the key clockwise on the passenger door only. However this link http://www.bmwe34.net/E34main/Trouble/Locked.htm suggests I do the opposite :rolleyes:

When trying it last night the latter suggestion seemed to work better than that contained in the manual - i.e. the lock pin moved with the key when turned counter-clockwise but wouldn't pop up far enough to unlock the car.
 

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Terry,

Which direction do I turn the lock? The manual says to turn the key clockwise on the passenger door only. However this link http://www.bmwe34.net/E34main/Trouble/Locked.htm suggests I do the opposite :rolleyes:

When trying it last night the latter suggestion seemed to work better than that contained in the manual - i.e. the lock pin moved with the key but wouldn't pop up far enough to unlock the car.
if the pin moves it means it's working. they're all a little stiff.

what you do, is pull up on the door handle. keep it held up nice and hard (not tooo hard)

turn the key so that the top of the key is moving towards teh front of the car. (Clockwise driver, anti-clock passenger) (assuming Right-hand drive)

turn it nice and positively until the pin pops up. they're all a little stiff. my passenger side is a pain in the backside.
 

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The manual says to turn the key clockwise on the passenger door only.
I think thats a translation issue and refers to European models :dunno:
 
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