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I got this off www.e30zone.co.uk where it was posted by a guy who is a large supplier of engine oils in the UK.

Interesting reading I thought...

I have seen a BMW document issue (10/2004) dated 01.11.04 concerning the correct oils for use in BMW M3/M5 cars.

It states the following:

BMW Longlife 01 oils to be used in all M series engines except

M43/CNG
S54
S62/E39 (up to 02/2000)

Where Castrol 10w-60 is recommended.

BMW Longlife 01 Oils are of the following viscosities/specifications:

LL01 SAE 0w-30, 0w-40, 5w-30, 5w-40 ACEA A3/B3, API SJ/SL/CD ECII

I have a list of approved oils.

There is also a Technical Bulletin to Dealers dated 03/11/2004 concerning ALL M5's S62/E39

from 02/2000 onwards use 0w-30, 0w-40, 5w-30 or 5w-40 BMW Longlife Approved Oils

up to 02/2000 use Castrol 10w-60

This is stated very clearly and is the definative answer from BMW, your Dealer should be aware of these recommendations.

Cheers
Simon


:cheers:
Cheers,
Bryn.
 

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Good knowledge mate.


My car is going to Birds in Uxbridge on Tuesday for the oil service.
They faxed me confirmation of the booking and the parts required.

The oil they listed was 0w-30, so that is an encouraging sign!!


Steve
 

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hertfordshire1 said:
Good knowledge mate.


My car is going to Birds in Uxbridge on Tuesday for the oil service.
They faxed me confirmation of the booking and the parts required.

The oil they listed was 0w-30, so that is an encouraging sign!!


Steve
Not really, as long-life oil is meant to stay in the engine for up to 20,000 miles - I'm not leaving mine in that long.

It's strange that BMW's own service literature used to recommend 10w60 Mobil 1, and once they got the deal with Castrol is changed to 10w60 TWS/RS.

Now they say Castrol GTX Magnatec or long-life oil?

I'm sticking with my Silkolene Pro-R - it's better, cheaper, and my motor doesn't use much.
 

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Mmm-Five said:
Not really, as long-life oil is meant to stay in the engine for up to 20,000 miles - I'm not leaving mine in that long.

It's strange that BMW's own service literature used to recommend 10w60 Mobil 1, and once they got the deal with Castrol is changed to 10w60 TWS/RS.

Now they say Castrol GTX Magnatec or long-life oil?

I'm sticking with my Silkolene Pro-R - it's better, cheaper, and my motor doesn't use much.
I use Castrol GTX Magnatec 10 - 40 as recomended by Munich Legends. It will be Ok for road use but 10 - 60 probably better if you do a lot of track days. 0 - 30 will results in oil leaks.

As mentioned previously you have to change the oil every 3000 miles as an absolute minimum.

:cheers:

ralph (vadas1)
 

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My mecanic (not bmw oficial) said me that 0w30 castrol oil (wich oficial bmw put in on my e34 3.6 on the last service) is to tin, it causes oil leaks, a higher oil consuption and can even be dangerous to the engine causing low or high (dont remember what he said...:thumbsup: ) oil pressuer!

So... he advise me something like 10w60... should i go for it?
 

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vadas1 said:
I use Castrol GTX Magnatec 10 - 40 as recomended by Munich Legends. It will be Ok for road use but 10 - 60 probably better if you do a lot of track days. 0 - 30 will results in oil leaks.

As mentioned previously you have to change the oil every 3000 miles as an absolute minimum.

:cheers:

ralph (vadas1)
Your advice includes the oilflter or can this be left alone for about 10k miles?
T.Koelmans
Friesland
 

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I use 10-40 fully synthetic in mine - changing it every six months or so (about 3,000 miles). I can't see that using 10/60 is a good idea - unless perhaps you are burning or leaking a lot - in which case the engine's clearly past its best. The idea that thick oil is somehow offers better protection is, IMHO, utter rubbish as its going to sap power as the additional viscosity means there will be greater drag pumping it round, and if its thicker it doesn't flow to where it should be going as fast as the engine designer intended.
 

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Hi day

Our user manuals state that we should use Wintershaw 15w/40 oil. And this is probably correct. However, a number of 'M' owners go through this oil at the rate of 1ltr per 400/800 miles. I've experimented with numerous oils ...... and of course, this is all driven by 'driving style'. If I could find a way of reducing the cost per miles/litre of oil, then I will investigate. However, having recently moved to Silkolene Pro-R 15w/50,; I find that Castrol 10w60 does a load more miles (1000miles compared to 1600 miles) than Silkolene.

Semi Synthetics of any weight (10/40- 15/40 Castrol and Halvoline) do about 400 to 600 miles.

My next step is to go down the Amsoil route of 20w/50 Synthetic Racing Oil; I understand that one of our Northern Members uses this and has no significant oil use after 2000 miles. I have Amsoil in my gearbox and diff (As recommended by the above member, and can only endorse this superior oil)

As to worn engine components: I had new Pistons, crankshaft,con rod bearings, new valve guide stems etc. So, in effect, I was running a new engine. Also ....... the engineers could not measure any wear on the camshafts or crankshaft after 111k miles. ..... These engines were built to last.

In conclusion:

Everything is dependant on driving style? (Daily shopper/daily commuter/show car). If you 'drive' this car (I hit 'red line'/limiter in 5th every week) Please remember this car is not for 'pussy's', and I would say that 9 times out of 10, that none of us can get any way near the potential of this car than a proper 'racing car driver' can, possible 50%? With this in mind you are going to need some heavy quality support/lubrication.

I believe this is what we are looking for .............. positioned against needs and value for money, short of going to a specific weight racing oil.

Anybody can tell me how to get 2000+ miles from their engine on 1litre of oil; Please let me know ASAP.

Thanks

Brian










day said:
I use 10-40 fully synthetic in mine - changing it every six months or so (about 3,000 miles). I can't see that using 10/60 is a good idea - unless perhaps you are burning or leaking a lot - in which case the engine's clearly past its best. The idea that thick oil is somehow offers better protection is, IMHO, utter rubbish as its going to sap power as the additional viscosity means there will be greater drag pumping it round, and if its thicker it doesn't flow to where it should be going as fast as the engine designer intended.
 

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My local supplier's stopped stocking Castrol 10-w60 and I poured the last drop I had into my motor last week!! What now?
 

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ECM4 said:
My local supplier's stopped stocking Castrol 10-w60 and I poured the last drop I had into my motor last week!! What now?
Get some Silkolene Pro-R for £20 per 4 litres
 
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