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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I posted this on the M6 side, but since our cars share the same underparts, i thought i'd post it here as well.
<SPAN style="LINE-HEIGHT: 115%; FONT-SIZE: 14pt; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-ansi-language: EN" lang=EN>After searching up clutch DIY's for the E60 E63 E64 SMG transmissions, and coming up short, I decided to make one of my own. There is a lot I've learned from this forum in just over a year and I think this is a great board, so I wanted to give something back to this community.<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com

Symptoms:<o:p></o:p>
Yellow COG - Drive moderately engine power reduced light for about 5 minutes. It disappeared and didn’t come back... until..<o:p></o:p>
Red COG - A Month later, I get a red COG. This lasted for about 5 minutes then went away.<o:p></o:p>
A few months after, I started to feel the dreaded "clunk" everyone talks about. Every time i shifted gears from 1-2-3, and 3-2-1, I would feel like I got rear ended. I then noticed slipping in 5th-6th. It would take a while to engage the gear, and when it finally does engage, CLUNK". Eventually it became undrivable since 1st gear would bite violently as soon as i touched the pedal, slips then catches and jerks like crazy.<o:p></o:p>
My Diagnosis:<o:p></o:p>
The clutch isn’t being completely depressed in between gear changes. Either the Release bearing or the clutch is damaged. So, I decided to change both.<o:p></o:p>
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Note: I take no responsibility for anyone damaging their vehicles following this thread. I am only sharing the experience I had doing this job.<o:p></o:p>
You will need the Special tool to remove and reinstall the clutch. If you know of a way to do it without, please share..<o:p></o:p>
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BMW 212300, you can rent it here: http://www.bimmerzone.com/product/PRT-212300.html<o:p></o:p>
BMW 119260.<o:p></o:p>
other than that, you will need a clutch kit.

Jack up the car..


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Start by removing the entire exhaust system. I made arrows in the pic below for reference on where to find these bolts. You will need a #13 socket, and a #13 wrench for everything exhaust related on this job.<o:p></o:p>
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Change these donuts.<o:p></o:p>
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Unbolt the exhaust brace and remove it. Push on these long arms towards the middle of the car to reveal a #8 bolt for the undercarriage.<o:p></o:p>
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Remove the undercarriage. Follow the #8 sockets all the way around. Straight forward.<o:p></o:p>
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This reveals the Drive Shaft. <o:p></o:p>
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Locate the Guibo. Remove and Replace. IIRC #18 socket.<o:p></o:p>
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Remove these bolts with a #10 point socket.<o:p></o:p>
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Dont forget to mark your parts.... just incase....<o:p></o:p>
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Keeping it original.<o:p></o:p>
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Remove the support brace.<o:p></o:p>
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Take off the Drive Shaft and put it aside. <o:p></o:p>
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Meanwhile... we CF'd the rear diffuser<o:p></o:p>
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Remove the Skid Plate. IIRC, #18 socket<o:p></o:p>
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[URL="http://i1095.photobucket.com/albums/i461/quangbang123/IMG_20140531_132818_zpsaf6d7a4e.jpg%5b/IMG%5d%5b/URL"][/IMG][/URL]<o:p></o:p>
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Unbolt this bracket that’s attached to the transmission harness. #10 socket.<o:p></o:p>
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Locate and disconnect the plugs from the transmission on the drivers side of the car. Remove the transmission cooler with the two bolts indicated, and move it to the side. This will reveal the plugs on the passenger side of the tranny along with the twistlock from the engine harness.<o:p></o:p>
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IMG]IMG]IMG]20Clutch/step12_zpsf94962f6.jpg.html][URL="http://i1095.photobucket.com/albums/i461/quangbang123/BMW%20M6%20DIY%20Clutch/step12_zpsf94962f6.jpg%5b/IMG%5d%5b/URL"][/IMG][/URL]<o:p></o:p>
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Allen key to remove transmission cooler<o:p></o:p>
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Put the transmision cooler back into place. You can now swing the entire harness over to the Passenger side so its completely out of harms way. There should no longer be any contact between the car, and your transmission.<o:p></o:p>

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Now with everything out of the way, we are ready to pull out the transmission<o:p></o:p>
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Unbolt all visible transmission bolts from the bottom. #10 point socket. Place a wooden board on top of a transmission jack and have two 2x4 short pieces of wood on the sides.<o:p></o:p>

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Here’s where the bolts on the top of the transmission are indicated by the red arrow. DO NOT loosen the bolt pointed by the yellow arrow. This bolt serves to secure the starter motor.<o:p></o:p>
Now that the transmission is out, lets take a look at the clutch. Looks like its missing two rivets.<o:p></o:p>
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Lock the flywheel using the special tool.<o:p></o:p>
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Here is the special clutch install tool.IMG]

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Shove it in!<o:p></o:p>
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Press the PinIMG][URL="http://i1095.photobucket.com/albums/i461/quangbang123/IMG_20140608_151721_zpsc1e205ec.jpg%5b/IMG%5d%5b/URL"][/IMG][/URL
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Follow this link for loosening sequence. Remember, once you remove the clutch, you will see a mark on the flywheel. This mark should be 180 degrees offset from the mark on the new clutch.<o:p></o:p>
http://pmmonline.co.uk/technical/clutch-removalreplacement-bmw-m5-and-m6IMG]
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New Clutch In! :D

Remove the Fork, Release bearing. Put grease on these two nipples, Replace the release bearing with a new one, and apply grease behind the fork where it makes contact with the nipples. DON’T grease the release bearing. Just don’t…..
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The rest is pretty straight forward. All the reinstallation steps are in reverse of this thread post. Always put anti seize when reinstalling parts. Save yourself or the next guy the headache. Don’t forget to adapt the new clutch using the adaptation procedure in INPA.

By the way. no more clunking. no more weird jerks. no more shuddering and slipping. just smooooooth as butter.




Get in and Drive happy.




thanks for reading.

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Much better than the DIY we already have. thanks.
 

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Hey guys I just started the job this weekend. Doing it on jackstands! Tranny is dropped, clutch and flywheel are out. Vincent @ Bimmerzone sent me a new pilot bearing, but I don't have a puller that fits, nor do any of the local auto parts stores. How have you guys gotten the old one out?


Some observations:
1. Flywheel is perfect with the slightest amount of wear. Have a new one so I'll put it in, but for others doing the job, suggest having your old one resurfaced instead, or even going 2 clutches before resurfacing.
2. Clutch looks pretty good - estimate 10-20% left versus new clutch and hoping it was indeed the culprit (slipping). About 40K miles on this clutch (1st one done under warranty).
3. Clutch tool wouldn't lock in on old clutch. Doesn't matter since not planning on reusing, but I did waste about 30 mins trying to get it to lock out. Tool is a loaner - will advise if I can't get it to lock on the new clutch.
4. If on jackstands (2 ton), tranny will have to stay in the tunnel for the job (not so bad). Need another ~6 inches of lift to be able to slide the tranny out (using motorcycle jack with approx. 4 in. "tare" height.).
5. Flywheel bolts are off-center, so the BMW tool is recommended. I bought a long T60 and had the shaft ground down at a machine shop. Works fine this way, but won't grab the bolts unless shaft is ground.


Any Q's feel free while the job is fresh in my mind!
 

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Hey guys I just started the job this weekend. Doing it on jackstands! Tranny is dropped, clutch and flywheel are out. Vincent @ Bimmerzone sent me a new pilot bearing, but I don't have a puller that fits, nor do any of the local auto parts stores. How have you guys gotten the old one out?
I bought a blind hole puller. Easy to find or rent from auto part stores. Put the new bearing in the freezer before installing.
 

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Here's what I used to pull the pilot bearing. Put some grease in the hole to stabilize wingnut, insert the wingnut, use a screwdriver to line up the threads, screw the bolt onto the wingnut, tighten washers down until bearing breaks free. Back it off and use spacers under the washers (I used sockets) and tighten until bearing is out.


New flywheel and clutch in - put tranny back in tomorrow.
 

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Question re: programming/adaptation for new clutch/flywheel - I'm going to have my indy shop do it, which is a few miles away. Can I drive the car over there? I had planned on getting a flatbed to bring me over, but thinking it might be a pain for no reason.
 

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Anyone know the part number for the clutch kit? Any other recommended options besides the OEM?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Hmm.... cost me $800 for labor to drop my tranny at my indy. He even replaced the SMG slave cylinder free of charge.... but next time I need to I'll reference this post to save some $$!
 

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Anyone know the part number for the clutch kit? Any other recommended options besides the OEM?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sorry. Didn't see this before. Try spareto.com Part numbers from realoem - ignore prices.

For vehicles with
Manual Transmission
S2MAA=No
01 SET CLUTCH PARTS 1 21212283089 $836.91
only in conjunction with
-- Guide bush 1 23117564680 $12.29
-- Ball pin H=20MM 1 21511223328 $1.17
-- Spring clip 1 21517570284 $4.50



Flywheel / Twin Mass Flywheel
Sponsored links
No. Description Supp. Qty From Up To Part Number Price Notes
01 Twin Mass Flywheel 1 04/2006 21212229955 $1633.63
only in conjunction with
-- SET CLUTCH PARTS 1 04/2006 21212283089 $836.91
 

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Hi ,

I've replaced the clutch and flywheel with a Spec SStrim one , put everything back on, but now i'm just strugling to reinstall the gearbox:


it's close to flush the engine, I probably have less than 1cm remaining and I'm struggling to move forward...

Do you guys met the same issue with a new clutch?

(I thing I'm close enough to put the fastener on the thread, but Im not confortable to torque the fasteners while the gearbox flush to the engine ,I'm afraid to too much constraint and to break the thread in the engine block).
Any advise?
 

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Hi ,

I've replaced the clutch and flywheel with a Spec SStrim one , put everything back on, but now i'm just strugling to reinstall the gearbox:


it's close to flush the engine, I probably have less than 1cm remaining and I'm struggling to move forward... I'm a missing something?

Do you guys met the same issue with a new clutch? (I thing I'm close enough to put the fastener on the thread, but Im not confortable to torque the fasteners while the gearbox flush to the engine ,I'm afraid to too much constraint and to break the thread in the engine block).
Any advise?
Assuming you aligned the clutch disk with the pilot bearing you should be good with a little wiggling and pushing forward. Did you put a little grease on the input shaft tip?

Using the bolts as you said is a bad idea, but it might also help, sometimes doing this on your back puts you at a disadvantage, esp with trolly trans jacks. What you can do is is put two bolts in the 4 and 8 o clock position. Hand thread them as much as you can see how much meat in the thread you have. if it's good, then give them a 1/2 turn alternately with very little force. If it draws it in great, if not stop. I use 10mm speed wrench, since it's short and very gentle hands. The point here is discretion, it should take very little torque but provides more clamping than you get on your back. Again you need to use your head.
 

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Assuming you aligned the clutch disk with the pilot bearing you should be good with a little wiggling and pushing forward. Did you put a little grease on the input shaft tip?

Using the bolts as you said is a bad idea, but it might also help, sometimes doing this on your back puts you at a disadvantage, esp with trolly trans jacks. What you can do is is put two bolts in the 4 and 8 o clock position. Hand thread them as much as you can see how much meat in the thread you have. if it's good, then give them a 1/2 turn alternately with very little force. If it draws it in great, if not stop. I use 10mm speed wrench, since it's short and very gentle hands. The point here is discretion, it should take very little torque but provides more clamping than you get on your back. Again you need to use your head.
So I did what you advised and it worked perfectly!
I got to say, I was pretty nervous on the first bolts... I went from the bottom fasteners up to the top ones with a torque wrench at 10N.m and the gearbox smously went in position! what a relief :)
Thank you my friend!
 

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thanks guys for the great DYI. I did the clutch and pressure plate and release bearing today on jack stands. pain in the ….. But worth it. One important piece of info missing from all the DYIs is that the two top screws on bell housing are bigger than the rest.
Also, do I need to bleed the system using ISTA or INPA or just the adaptation is good enough? if yes anybody has a pic of where the bleed screw is?
thanks again
 
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