Altering settings for street comfort and track flogging is largely a waste of time. The optimal setting for all duty will be roughly defined by the chassis' weight & f/r balance in conjunction with spring and swaybar rates. This holds true even if you're changing from street to race rubber. When you can generate greater G's with track tires, both stiffer dampers AND springs are the fix. If dampers need tightened up for track to prevent bottoming and reduce chassis movement, the ride height and/or spring rates are wrong. The result will be inferior.
Setting the dampers softer than optimal will cause poor control (heaving and pogo) that will not make the ride more comfortable. Setting the dampers stiffer than optimal will degrade handling in all cases and this will actually become dangerous on varying or slippery road surface.
Setting a car to stiffer settings than optimal for track use will make the car firmer and flatter, but slower and more difficult to control. Dampers should never be used to achieve flatter cornering. When dampers are cranked above optimal to work like a helper spring, the instantaneous wheel rates vary wildly and become so unpredictable that an expert driver can no longer drive near the limit of adhesion. The car will continually get loose as the wheel rates change. Compliance and suspension responsiveness is a good thing.
