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boy am I glad you brought this up. fixing my E60 right now. pass side was off by 180 degrees. driver side was in the middle of the L and R. sure would like to get a definitive answer on the alignment.
 

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Thanks for pointing that out. Would that be about 2 fingers from the edge of the indention of the spring mounting plate?

Was just looking at 545 version of E60, they show a clear image of the spring being aligned with the edge (just to confuse matters more)

 

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Thanks for pointing that out. Would that be about 2 fingers from the edge of the indention of the spring mounting plate?

Was just looking at 545 version of E60, they show a clear image of the spring being aligned with the edge (just to confuse matters more)

There is NO specific distance the coil sits from the edge of the valley in the spring perch.

The bottom coil has a specific rotation that will allow it to wrap perfectly around the shoulder of the spring perch. The images from the TIS & Sachs are only a guide to approximately how far back there spring will sit.

Also the M & non-M have different suspension components and they will be paired differently, the 5-series TIS you uploaded is correct for the non-M suspension hardware.
 

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The bottom coil has a specific rotation that will allow it to wrap perfectly around the shoulder of the spring perch. The images from the TIS & Sachs are only a guide to approximately how far back there spring will sit.
I'm looking at mine right now and I think I understand what you mean - the way mine is positioned (non-M) is the spring is flat on the perch and starts to curve up right were the perch valley (for lack of better word) dips. by perch valley, I mean the dip that allows you to align the rubber. Is this correct spring alignment?

Or is it just a matter of making sure the flat part of the spring does not go over top of the perch valley?
938686
 

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@SunglassesGuy you can't tell if the spring is oriented correctly from the side you photographed, it is most accurately checked looking down the center of the spring.

I'm going to try and use my setup to explain myself better, and hopefully help everyone visualize why the OE style springs on the E39 & E60 are so finicky and require extra finesse to install correctly.

Caveats:
1. This is NOT a DIY for aligning the springs
2. Each spring requires it's own rotation (verified by installer at the time of installation)
3. Each spring (including Left -to- Right) will have a slight variation on how far back it will sit
4. There is a Top & Bottom coil to conventional springs
5. I highly recommend some version of this tool, from whatever brand you prefer:
Bavarian
Scwhaben
Amazon
Amazon 2
Baum Tools
Hazet

NOTE #1
These are Dinan-springs on a Koni spring-perch for an E39 M5

NOTE #2
The rotation is similar to an non-M suspension because that is how Dinan chose to have the springs designed

NOTE #3
If using non-BMW springs on the E60 you may have similar discrepancy due to the manufacturer's design choice

SunglassesGuy & dan.trainor if you happen to still have your OE BMW springs (and your aftermarket springs) it would be very helpful for future reference to take photos of the top and bottom coils to see how much variation there is.
 

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Excellent description JohnAnthony! Thank you for that. I guess the only way to know while they are installed is to feel down there on the perch for a uniform gap. Maybe one can get a camera in there somehow. Still have factory springs on both my Non-M E60 and my M-E62. The E62 has never been touched, just 36K miles on it, so I'll have a chance to see how the factory did it.......
 

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You can try and check by lifting the front end off the ground and turning the steering from lock-to-lock to get a 360 degree view. I doubt you can accurately feel anything by hand, the spring will distort the rubber pad and fill up any gaps. The photos I posted are all without the spring under load/compression, see how much the spring compresses in the attached image.

OH, @JohnAnthony - Thank you for the tool links. I wonder if those would for for a Toyota as well? Getting ready to do the wife's car at some point.
The tool comes with 3 different plate sizes, and each plate has a pretty wide range of coils it can accept.
 

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Discussion Starter #29
Wow. That's great stuff. Thank you JohnAnthony.

The least I can do is fulfill an ask, especially after all the help you've given. I'll be ripping the entire assembly off tonight but just saw that I don't have a compressor that will work. Naked springs might have to wait until I get a kit. I'll take some pictures of everything as assembled, too, as they might be good for reference and time travelers looking at this post, later.
 

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So if the bottom end of my front springs are sitting on the rubber stopper (how it shows it shouldn’t) does this meant the shop never installed it correctly??
I had shocks replaced but kept stock springs
 

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Discussion Starter #31
So if the bottom end of my front springs are sitting on the rubber stopper (how it shows it shouldn’t) does this meant the shop never installed it correctly??
I had shocks replaced but kept stock springs
Got some pics? Might help illustrate more the difference between correct and incorrect in the thread. :)
 

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So if the bottom end of my front springs are sitting on the rubber stopper (how it shows it shouldn’t) does this meant the shop never installed it correctly??
I had shocks replaced but kept stock springs
It does sounds like they are rotated incorrectly. In addition to any photos what brand & model springs are they?
 

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Stock springs

Can it be rotated to correct position with car jacked up and spring compressors?
Or does whole strut need to be out
 

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Stock springs

Can it be rotated to correct position with car jacked up and spring compressors?
Or does whole strut need to be out
The BMW-OE coil should be doable using the type of compressor shown above. I was able to fix my Dinan spring while mounted on the car, but it takes finesse and patience.

Be mindful that the top and bottom of the spring will unwind as you release them. You need to keep an eye on everything simultaneously (the top coil, the bottom coil and the rubber pads). Make sure they all seat properly otherwise everything will have a little bind to them and the rubber will get torn up from normal use.

Also remember everything is at an angle relative to each other, nothing is sitting perpendicular on the conventional perches.
 

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Discussion Starter #35
Pulled an all-nighter for work the other day. Finally got enough sleep in me to be active :)

All my new mounting hardware is here. About to get greasy. Can't think of a better way to spend a casual Saturday.

Here's a square-on picture from the right side, of the original equipment. Based on the other pictures of this thread, it looks like this isn't proper installation. Granted it looks like the pad twisted clockwise likely due to influence from the spring turning the same way, but I understand the end of the spring isn't supposed to sit in the groove like this. However my understanding was that the seat is also oblong in shape which should "lock" the spring in to one orientation.

I'll update shortly when I drop the assembly for more informarion.

938824
 

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Discussion Starter #37
I think the assembly has the correct orientation. 180 degrees from this picture angle is the tang that lines up with the gap of the swivel bearing clamp. This is it's centered, forward facing Direction.
 

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The flat part is not supported by the mount. My guess is it looks waaay off from what we've learned so far. What was your alnighter Dan? Keeping Sugar Momma's happy or solving software bugs?
 

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Discussion Starter #40
Haha. Software bugs. I work for a company called Red Hat. Been working on a very high profile project and once in a while.... just gotta buckle down and get **** done, make a show out of it.
 
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