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Discussion Starter #1
Seen a lot of good threads on how well these preform (particularly with K&R Sport springs, which I've got), but not much about the installation.

The original hardware has a notch in them, aligning them with the gap of the swivel bearing:

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The swivel bearing has a notch in it to set a low limit of the same hardware:

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Maybe I'll get some more clues when I take the original strut off and see if there are any similar markings between the old and the new that I couldn't otherwise see.

But, is there a proper installation or twist alignment the new strut should be installed with? The most information I can find about this is a sticker on the new struts. I'm not sure if it's an alignment guide or if it's just to indicate the strut is of universal fitment and it doesn't matter if they're installed on the left or the right sides:

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Have you done this before? Got any tips?
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Fun fact: I think that I need the B8's instead, since I have the H&R Sprot (29143) springs.

Not that I think it's going to change any of the parameters of my question above.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
(wrote up that response a few hours ago and didn't hit "Post Reply" hah!)

I have a better understanding now.

Because it's the springs that determine ride height, and since the B6's are longer, they get loaded before the spring is engaged enough to support the weight of the car. I think that's what I correctly understand.
 

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The l or r lines up with the slot or opening depending on the side of the car

For what reason i dont know as i cant see 5mm making a difference in rotation??
 

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Discussion Starter #6
The l or r lines up with the slot or opening depending on the side of the car

For what reason i dont know as i cant see 5mm making a difference in rotation??
Yes, my thoughts exactly, not to mention the "L" and the "R" don't have increments associated with them and the width of the actual letter is quite large, if you're supposed to use that as an alignment measurement?

I could only guess angular difference would be for spring clocking.
That's a good point. But even on the current setup that I haven't removed yet, there's quite a large range of where the spring could lock, at least on the bottom of the spring (top of strut, the seat).

Either way, it's the tie rod that sets the rotation (tow) of the shock. Even if it's not close, the tie rod would force it correct rotationally.
 

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To your point on the B6 vs B8. I thought EDC version was only available in B6? In the standard shocks, the B8 is the more aggressive shock. Have them on my N62 E60. They are awesome.

I'd call Bilstien and ask them on the alignment.
 

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yes, call them, and let us know, i'll be getting those for my M6 one day. But don't the Left and Right side have different part numbers? so maybe you should align it to the line in the middle, with the L and R aligned to the left and right of the pinch as straight as you can?
 

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Discussion Starter #13
They sent me this picture, which is nice, but it doesn't leave much to the precision alignment since there is no "width" marks (pictured in my above attached pictures) other than just using the width of the letters "L" and "R" on the stickers (also, the image doesn't match the sticker on these B6's, but I get the idea):

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The shock assembly of the E6X chassis is almost identical to the E39 M5. You align the letters in as close to the exact middle as possible. There shouldn't be any alignment indentation on the shock body if the shocks come with the L & R markings.

Use the letters to align the shocks, as you can see the pinch on the wheel carrier does not close shut. When torqued down the gap at the pinch point is approximately the same width as the letters L & R on the shock body. The letters on the shock body should be aligned with the center-line of the pinch.
L is the driver's side
R is the passenger side

Note 1:
That little square notch in the spring perch needs to point outwards & towards the rear of the car.
For reference:




Note 2:
There is a top and bottom position for the springs, also the springs have a specific rotation for the bottom portion. If you fail to seat the bottom of the spring in the correct rotation, the spring will not function properly and start eating away at multiple components.

 

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Discussion Starter #15
Very, very, very good stuff my friend, thank you. This helps tremendously. Half the reason I got this very car was using it as a learning opportunity and it's already paid dividends by contributions like yours. Thank you.

Is it correct to say the correct rotation of the shock is to provide the proper seat orientation for the spring as a whole? I'm looking at the OE and there's quite a gap where the spring sits, much wider than what the L/R line orientation would allow for.

Note that I haven't removed the shock assembly yet, I'm sure it'll make more sense once I pull it. My concern was taking something out incorrectly, and not having a reference to better understand the reassembly. I've got all new mounting hardware and seats on order, hoping to do this all the correct way as long as I'm this far in to it.

Thanks again for the info.
 

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Discussion Starter #17

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Discussion Starter #18
I've had an email thread going on with Bilstein the last few days, half for product support, half as a learning process. Part of the exchange included a few images which really helped me better understand the why's and how's. I'll attach them to this thread in the hopes they help time travelers who find this thread for information in the future:

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Man, I'm glad you brought this thread up. I just put my shocks back based on dirt - same spot as where they were when I took them apart. Looking thru photos, looks like they were installed wrong, gotta get it up in the air to confirm. My Indy at the time mixed up L/R sides

Question: If this is true, and I correct this, will it mess up alignment?
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Cool! Glad it helped! Like I said, learning process for me... and hopefully, others.

I imagine this will mess up alignment yes, since it changes the rotation of the shock in the swivel bearing / steering knuckle. Probably for other reasons but that's what comes to me off the top of my head.
 
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