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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Yesterday afternoon on the way home from the office I did a simple lame change at roughly 30mph and heard a loud POP then metal scraping sounds...

My RD Sport front sway bar completely sheared through without warning.

This is a topic that's been brought up before, but I want to bring it to the forefront once more. Anyone running these should replace them immediately. I take my E60 up in the canyons, this could've happened at a VERY dangerous moment. Everyone please beware.







Swapped it out today for my OEM sways. Also, the damage was so violent that it bent my OEM end links...I'll have to replace those asap as well now.




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Sorry to hear Chris, is it in the same location as the others?
 

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We found the bar was actually coming loose. I seem to remember you also had an unknown front end noise, IIRC?

Have any more pics of the clamps and bushings? That right one is way out of place, similar.





Sway Bar Warning 2 (Too) <hr class="dividing-line"> As many of you know we have monitoring the sway bar and surrounding components carefully in the wake of the RD sway bars breaking on several members cars.

This is what we found in looking for an "unknown noise" .


The techs that originally installed the bar became short sighted in trying to quell the squeaking, that they forgot what matters, torq. spec. and some thread lock to keep the bolts from backing out.

The top bolt of the bar mounting clamp seats directly into the bracket welded on the sub-frame (no retaining nut).
We had to bend the clamp back into a "c position", bend the high pressure hose brackets back into place, regrease, remount the sway bar from end link to end link.


THANKFULLY the top bolt was sitting loose on top of the water platter when we removed it , or I would be SOL.


If ANYONE has serviced/replaced your sway bar or any related components, I highly recommend you keep a close eye on the mounts.





<hr class="dividing-line"> Last edited by Texasgrego; 9th July 2016 at 11:21 AM.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
We found the bar was actually coming loose. I seem to remember you also had an unknown front end noise, IIRC?

Have any more pics of the clamps and bushings? That right one is way out of place, similar.





Sway Bar Warning 2 (Too) <hr class="dividing-line"> As many of you know we have monitoring the sway bar and surrounding components carefully in the wake of the RD sway bars breaking on several members cars.

This is what we found in looking for an "unknown noise" .


The techs that originally installed the bar became short sighted in trying to quell the squeaking, that they forgot what matters, torq. spec. and some thread lock to keep the bolts from backing out.

The top bolt of the bar mounting clamp seats directly into the bracket welded on the sub-frame (no retaining nut).
We had to bend the clamp back into a "c position", bend the high pressure hose brackets back into place, regrease, remount the sway bar from end link to end link.


THANKFULLY the top bolt was sitting loose on top of the water platter when we removed it , or I would be SOL.


If ANYONE has serviced/replaced your sway bar or any related components, I highly recommend you keep a close eye on the mounts.





<hr class="dividing-line"> Last edited by Texasgrego; 9th July 2016 at 11:21 AM.


Nope, I did a front end refresh due to wheel wobble...no undiagnosed sounds. I put in new upper & lower control arms.


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This is what i was referring to, conversation from June 1st. I had a popping noise when we discovered what's above.

Did you shorten the end links when you installed the coilovers? If not, does this not cause tension between the new link position and the static bushing?
Remember Randy had to address this.

I have asked before, is there an instance of a bar breaking on a car that was not lowered?

Glad there was no serious damage


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Sh!t ive been tracking down a popping sound in my front suspension for the better part of 6mos....ive literally replaced everything:

- upper control arms w/ new bushings
- lower control arms w/ new bushings
- say bay end links
- installed coilovers

car handles like a dream but the sound is still there. I have RD sway bars....i wonder if i should take it off & inspect it...
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
oh ****, youre right, i do remember that now...but it turns out that the passenger side bolts were loose the brake caliper...once i tightened/torqued it back down the sound disappeared...


(also, that sound was present before lowering the car)

This is what i was referring to, conversation from June 1st. I had a popping noise when we discovered what's above.

Did you shorten the end links when you installed the coilovers? If not, does this not cause tension between the new link position and the static bushing?
Remember Randy had to address this.

I have asked before, is there an instance of a bar breaking on a car that was not lowered?

Glad there was no serious damage


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umichchris m5board.comoholic (>1000 posts)



Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Los Angeles, CA
Posts: 1,965
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Sh!t ive been tracking down a popping sound in my front suspension for the better part of 6mos....ive literally replaced everything:

- upper control arms w/ new bushings
- lower control arms w/ new bushings
- say bay end links
- installed coilovers

car handles like a dream but the sound is still there. I have RD sway bars....i wonder if i should take it off & inspect it...
 

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Damn.


So is this an inherent problem with the sway bar, or a bad batch of sway bars? Or is this caused by other factors putting unintended stresses on an otherwise good bar?
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
given the multiple reports of almost exact same type of failures here as well as the same type of failures report over on the M3 Forum for the E9x series platform...it seems like RD Sport simply made an inferior product. no way these things should be snapping like that.


the real messed up part is...my car handled 100x better with that bar on than it does now with the OEM bar. feels like a totally different car and not in a good way :/


Damn.


So is this an inherent problem with the sway bar, or a bad batch of sway bars? Or is this caused by other factors putting unintended stresses on an otherwise good bar?
 

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@umichchris sorry to hear about your failure. Do you know how many miles you had on your RDSways?

Damn.


So is this an inherent problem with the sway bar, or a bad batch of sway bars? Or is this caused by other factors putting unintended stresses on an otherwise good bar?
Quality Control went downhill -- not sure when.

I've been one of the lucky ones with my RDSways -- 53,000 miles of tracking and daily driving on my sways.

The failures are undeniable.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I had it on the car for a little less than 8k miles...i put it on back in June 2014 when i had my clutch, flywheel and headers installed...



@umichchris sorry to hear about your failure. Do you know how many miles you had on your RDSways?



Quality Control went downhill -- not sure when.

I've been one of the lucky ones with my RDSways -- 53,000 miles of tracking and daily driving on my sways.

The failures are undeniable.
 

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I had it on the car for a little less than 8k miles...i put it on back in June 2014 when i had my clutch, flywheel and headers installed...
Not good at all. Glad you're safe.

:cheers:
 

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Damn.


So is this an inherent problem with the sway bar, or a bad batch of sway bars? Or is this caused by other factors putting unintended stresses on an otherwise good bar?
I am trying Nova.......no answer from anybody in three different threads :grrrrr: Maybe i should say something about how bad bmw's suck or something lol

This is what i was referring to, conversation from June 1st. I had a popping noise when we discovered what's above.

Did you shorten the end links when you installed the coilovers? If not, does this not cause tension between the new link position and the static bushing?
Remember Randy had to address this.

I have asked before, is there an instance of a bar breaking on a car that was not lowered?

Glad there was no serious damage


So we think the bars have broken in same spot, same side......???



 

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I am starting to think perhaps RD Sways issue is related to a defective batch. I have not heard of RD Sways breaking off on any M6. Maybe i am wrong but never heart of it. Took a leap of faith and put them on M6. No issues so far. Sucks to have them break off like that since RD sways are not cheap. Other M5s im sure have the RD sways thousands of miles and no issues. Very weird.

I would reach out to vendor and see what they say. I know they replaced the bars in the past.
 

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Sorry - been a bit busy and not active on the forums recently.
@umichchris sorry to hear your RDSport front sway snapped as well, but glad you are okay.

Personally, I have met I believe two other local M5 owners who's RDSport front sway bars have snapped in the exact same spot. @Sfbimmerman (Paul), actually had TWO RDSport FSBs snap in the exact same spot. The other member was @Gcal08 (Gian). Both Paul and Gian's bars snapped while driving on the street and I think making left turns. Mine snapped on the track while making a left turn. All three of our cars are lowered with various lowering spring setups at the time.

There have been other members on here who's RDSport FSBs have snapped as well, also in the same spot.

One theory mine/Gian's indy shop had was that maybe the welds were bad because there was water leaking from inside the bar as well as rust when they removed Gian's snapped FSB. However, Paul applied some extra bonding on his second set of FSB at the welds we thought the leaking may have come from. No help - his second RDSport FSB also snapped.

Both Paul and I were able to get replacement FSBs from RDSport/Trinity for free (work with the vendor you purchased your RDSport sways from). I never put my second one on and as I mentioned above, Paul's second one snapped just like the first.

I currently am running the Dinan FRC with the stock sway bar and Bimmerworld 11" adjustable endlinks. I had switched my suspension setup from Dinan lowering springs to Bilstein B16 EDC Coilovers and was experiencing some knocking due to the stock endlinks not being the right length when mated to the Dinan FRC. Paul I believe is running the M6 stock FSB because I believe that is thicker than the M5 one and is also used in the E61 M5 wagon IIRC.

Hope the above helps. I would caution you to put on a replacement RDSport FSB though.

Also, I believe that all the snapped RDSport FSBs were from different manufacturing dates. The pictures are somewhere in the threads on m5board.
 

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the real messed up part is...my car handled 100x better with that bar on than it does now with the OEM bar. feels like a totally different car and not in a good way :/
I would go with factory M6/E61 M5 parts and the Dinan roll control system. Use the E63 M3 comp package front sway bar, 31352283123, which is 29mm and then use the E64 M6 convertible rear 20mm bar, 33552283036. Up front on the 29mm bar install the Dinan front roll control system. I think that will sharpen up the car a good bit and hopefully using all factory/Dinan parts will be a well designed solution to increased roll stiffness.

** Note: I don't have an E60 M5 nor specific application experience with this suggestion, but from looking through everything, there is no apparent reason they will not simply bolt up with the proper bushings, brackets, etc you can research on realoem.com.

Cheers,
Chuck
 

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I would go with factory M6/E61 M5 parts and the Dinan roll control system. Use the E63 M3 comp package front sway bar, 31352283123, which is 29mm and then use the E64 M6 convertible rear 20mm bar, 33552283036. Up front on the 29mm bar install the Dinan front roll control system. I think that will sharpen up the car a good bit and hopefully using all factory/Dinan parts will be a well designed solution to increased roll stiffness.

** Note: I don't have an E60 M5 nor specific application experience with this suggestion, but from looking through everything, there is no apparent reason they will not simply bolt up with the proper bushings, brackets, etc you can research on realoem.com.

Cheers,
Chuck
Chuck,

Would it make sense to keep the rear RDSway? There have been no reported failures of the RSB. Or do you think they would be incompatible? I appreciate your experience across all platforms.

Your recommendation would be my next step, if my front ever fails.

(Now...I have to see if I can re-find my DINAN FRC stuff I removed 53,000 miles ago).

:cheers:
 

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Chuck,

Would it make sense to keep the rear RDSway? There have been no reported failures of the RSB. Or do you think they would be incompatible? I appreciate your experience across all platforms.

Your recommendation would be my next step, if my front ever fails.

(Now...I have to see if I can re-find my DINAN FRC stuff I removed 53,000 miles ago).

:cheers:
Hey Woody,

I guess it depends on one's trust in the RD bars to some extent.

Back to the factory parts, the stock M5 solid bars are 26.5mm and 18mm (these are solid, correct? -- pretty sure they are but haven't actually handled one). Going to the M6 comp pkg front 29mm bar increases roll stiffness by (29^4/26.5^4) = 1.43 or 43% stiffer. Add to that the Dinan FRC and you arrive at an increase of? I assume that setup decreases the length of the moment arm of the swaybar, and Dinan could tell you by how much; then you can figure out the change in stiffness it adds (or they likely have already done the calc, so they'll tell you of course!). The factory 29mm bar is readily available and not too expensive.

The rear 20mm bar off the M6 vert is reasonably priced and easily available. It increases stiffness over stock by (20^4/18^4) = 1.52 or 52%. Hence my guess that it would work well on the E60 M5 coupled with the 29mm front bar, especially if you use the Dinan RC system coupled with camber plates and/or wider front wheels/tires.

I would go this route if I owned an E60 M5 and see how it worked. With other mods such as coilovers, different sized wheels/tires (i.e. change in factory stagger for example), different LSD (hint), etc, I think these would meld well given they are not crazy different percentage changes (i.e. the stiffness increase balance between the front and rear is close to stock ratios with perhaps just a tad more rear roll sitffness which is probably a good thing except in high speed corners on track, WOT and the tach over 6k rpms :biggrin: ).
 
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