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Discussion Starter #1
OK. So as well as doing the bearings, etc. I'll be doing the belts. As it looks like a nightmare (god it makes me love working on my 996, Dicovery, Ducati...) should I do the idlers and or the tensioners. Normally I only do them if making noise but as there are such an incredible pain to get to.....
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Tensioner aren't cheap but idlers aren't bad. Are there 1 or 2 idlers. Can't tell from the diagram and video I saw
 

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Ah right the tensioners are not. Can't remember if the tensioner pulley (w/bearing) is available separately or not. I think it does.
 

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Little secret: Just buy the bearing pulley for the tensioner. No need to replace the whole assembly. Much cheaper that way. BMW doesn't openly tell you that you can do this since its just one part number but its PN: 11281440237

You have to remove a spacer that is provided otherwise 100% identical
 
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Little secret: Just buy the bearing pulley for the tensioner. No need to replace the whole assembly. Much cheaper that way. BMW doesn't openly tell you that you can do this since its just one part number but its PN: 11281440237

You have to remove a spacer that is provided otherwise 100% identical

very nice- where is the spacer?
 

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Well dammit.

Went to change the belts on the project car aaaaand the Continental standard size belts were too long. Guess what? Underdrive pulleys on it 😐 .

The underdrive parts are:
Gates P/N alternator belt is K060551 ($13.12 at Rock Auto)
Gates P/N AC belt is K060410 ($13.42 at Rock Auto)

Standard belts are:
Continental 6K1084 AC/PS ($9.28 at Rock Auto)
Continental 6K1432 alternator ($10.12 at Rock Auto)

So much for saving money on belts LOL
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Ah, lucky and unlucky. Nice mod. Too bad previous owner didn't tell you. I kinda hope I'm in the same boat.
 
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