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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I purchased my BC Racing Coilvers (Type BR, 8k/6k spring rates) from Tristan at Circuit Motorsports. Great guy to deal with. I also purchased the rear extenders for the damping controls. I installed the rears first, the harder of the 2 to do. If you remove the fender liner, it really isn't THAT bad. You just have to remove the caliper, take the upper rear trailing arm loose from the knuckle and disconnect 1 plug to slide the shock/spring assembly out. The fronts are SO EASY it isn't even funny. Once I get the ride heights at all 4 corners squared away, I will do a full review. I am starting my dmapening setting with 10 clicks from full soft in the rear and 15 clicks from full soft in the front.

PS: I am sorry my fender wells aren't as clean as your's Steve. I am sure I could eat a $50 steak off of them if I went into your garage right now......LOL

Rear install:












Rear extender install, you can see where I intended to put the extender knob out through the speaker grill but it bent the cable too much that you couldn't feel the "click" of the settings, so I had to move it up a little. I will just source some new speaker grills to take care of that hole.
















 

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I am happy you did yours first - mine should be cake now ;)

Subscribed...
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
Fronts. The only thing I have to gripe about is this:

The manual is HORRIBLY translated. Good Lord is it bad.

Also, in the first picture, this nut is difficult to get on and tighten as you have to use an open end wrench due to the flare of the shock body. No big deal, just be aware of it. You have to thread it on as the ball joint threads are pushed through.











Here you can see the clearance of 9.5" OEM rear wheels on the front. These pictures are taken with the car fully on the ground.

3mm spacer


10mm spacer
 

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Very nice. Have you had a chance to drive it around?
 

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nice pictorial write up! I should add that in your pics the spring perch collar screws are seperated, the ones at the lower ends of the springs. from my recollection they need to be tightened together to stop the spring working loose. the lower most (gold coloured) shock body collar is the one that gets undone in order to adjust ride height
 

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Timmay.

I too have the extenders and was wondering if you could put them anywhere through the speaker grilles.

Obviously the corner is a no no but do you think you could do it more central in the grille, perhaps where you have positioned the holes in the shelf but a little further back so as they are on the very front edge of the grille??

I was going to do that, or leave them in such a way as they are tucked under the grille itself and i could simply unclip the grille for access to the extender.

Having done the job now do you think any of that is possible as i want to leave the shelf unless its a last resort???

Oh, as a final point, did you undo your hub nut/bolt that clamps the front shock to the hub okay, or was it a PITA??

Thanks

Jay
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Very nice. Have you had a chance to drive it around?
Not yet, still adjusting ride height.

nice pictorial write up! I should add that in your pics the spring perch collar screws are seperated, the ones at the lower ends of the springs. from my recollection they need to be tightened together to stop the spring working loose. the lower most (gold coloured) shock body collar is the one that gets undone in order to adjust ride height
Correct. I was in the middle of making adjustments when I remembered to snap a few pictures........


I did notice that when I was making my adjustments, as descibed by, well, everyone, the spring collars came loose that preload the spring, which they shouldn't have. My method of adjustments will be to loosen all 3 collars, adjust threaded collar to desired ride height, preload the spring with the upper collars to 5mm (thickness of the wrench), tighten top collars, then tighten the lower collar. That way I know FOR SURE that I have 5mm of preload on my spring.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Timmay.

I too have the extenders and was wondering if you could put them anywhere through the speaker grilles.

Obviously the corner is a no no but do you think you could do it more central in the grille, perhaps where you have positioned the holes in the shelf but a little further back so as they are on the very front edge of the grille??

I was going to do that, or leave them in such a way as they are tucked under the grille itself and i could simply unclip the grille for access to the extender.

Having done the job now do you think any of that is possible as i want to leave the shelf unless its a last resort???

I am sure it could be done, but I am not sure you would be able to feel each "click" of the adjuster. Where I had mine it worked, just not the way it was intened too. Look at the picture with the speaker enclosure mounted. You will have to go around that to get where you want to go. That will be your issue.....

Oh, as a final point, did you undo your hub nut/bolt that clamps the front shock to the hub okay, or was it a PITA??

I had no problems at all. I had each shock/spring assembly replaced in literally 10 min. SUPER easy.

Thanks

Jay
Noted.....
 

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Seems to be a lot of BC action going on lately..............can you confirm that the shock clamp of the wheel carrier is threaded as well as having the lock nut on it, I got the nut off ok, but the bolt is uber tight, I was fearing some internal organ displacement as I was proper hanging off it to get it to budge, soaked in penetrating fluid over night and am going to get a heat source if it still wont budge, I found the rears flew on, albeit with the extra work of the shelf and that but no hassles from the rear, front have been another story..........like your plan to set them up, whats the mileage on your car, what did you think of all the control arms, wishbones etc etc, mine all look OK but its got 110k on it so am considering swapping them out for new but its not cheap............

Mike
 

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Tim, I expect you to drive these suckers hard and put their durability to the test. Not for track duty, but for the eventual twisties. I should be getting mine in the summer (tied up with the Mini at the moment) so the M5 is taking a rest with mods.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 · (Edited)
Seems to be a lot of BC action going on lately..............can you confirm that the shock clamp of the wheel carrier is threaded as well as having the lock nut on it, I got the nut off ok, but the bolt is uber tight, I was fearing some internal organ displacement as I was proper hanging off it to get it to budge, soaked in penetrating fluid over night and am going to get a heat source if it still wont budge, I found the rears flew on, albeit with the extra work of the shelf and that but no hassles from the rear, front have been another story..........like your plan to set them up, whats the mileage on your car, what did you think of all the control arms, wishbones etc etc, mine all look OK but its got 110k on it so am considering swapping them out for new but its not cheap............

Mike


If you are referring to #3, it IS NOT threaded on my car. I removed the nut and it just slides out. My car only has 63k on it, so everything looks pretty good. I have one ball joint that is leaking a little on the passenger rear so I shot some grease in it and put some silicone on the edges to see if I can make it last a little longer.

Looking good Tim. Now you've no reason not to come to Mid Ohio...
You are correct sir.....

Tim, I expect you to drive these suckers hard and put their durability to the test. Not for track duty, but for the eventual twisties. I should be getting mine in the summer (tied up with the Mini at the moment) so the M5 is taking a rest with mods.
After I get my clutch broke in I plan on driving the hell out of my car this summer. No worries.
 

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Tim,

As usual, you have done an outstanding job at the install an documentation. Congrats..(Come on Spring!!)

Now, let me say that I am APPAULED at the fact you didnt do a complete detail of the undercarriage area while you were there, at least the fender wells.

I thought I knew you better than that

<snicker>
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Steve, first off, thank you. If I showed you the rest of the car, you would fly out here and hand my butt to me, trust me. Due to the amount of dust I have created from all of the speaker baffle making and other stereo work, my car is a MESS. While I was waiting for my flywheel, I decided to do other work on the car. Since I could not move it due to it being on jack stands, it collected all of the dust. Plus, I am trying to rush and get everything done! Once I finish EVERYTHING, if there is such a thing, I plan on doing a "HavasuSteve" style cleansing of MCINCO. I will earn back your respect sir.......
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I had a chance to drive it around the block. Once. Then realized the new clutch is not releasing all of the way, so the car is back in the garage with the guts spilled again. I did get a chance to level it out and do some testing with the suspension.

First off, make sure these nuts are tight. Mine were not so I was banging around HARD.


I put some tape on the shock body to test if I would rub with the 3mm spacers. I did not rub, but then again, I just went around the block. I ordered some 5mm spacers just in case. I don't really want to run 10mm spacers in the front unless I have to.



 

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Tmmay,

Waiting for the final review on these with how you think the ride is with these and possibly some pics of them set on your car. You think it will be completed anytime soon ? I am going to pull the trigger on theses next week and would like to hear your final review on them
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Tmmay,

Waiting for the final review on these with how you think the ride is with these and possibly some pics of them set on your car. You think it will be completed anytime soon ? I am going to pull the trigger on theses next week and would like to hear your final review on them
Probably not anytime soon. For one, my transmission is still on my garage floor due to my clutch problems. Also, it is hailing outside right now. I have a feeling I won't be driving the car any time soon. Sorry.
 

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Good call on checking the top nuts, one of mine was 'loose' and the knocking was nasty. All sorted now though.

On another note, with your drive around the block, how did you initially find your settings?
 
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