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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hi Chaps,
Went ahead with removing the rear shocks & springs today. Re-installed the new BC coilover and left it at factory set up. When I re-assembled the shock the arch gap had reduced from 150mm to 60mm with the wheel off the floor, I'm not going to be able to drop the car for a while and was wondering if any others with the BC set up could chime in and let me know if this is normal. I have no problem adjusting it if it is too low but I had read factory set up was OK.

Also, I removed the rear wishbone (18) to assist with removal of the shock, I looked up on TIS for tightening torques for the wishbone nuts (12 & 20) and torque for the lower shock bolt (2 on the shock pic) and upper shock bolts (9 on shock pic). On TIS the descriptions are different than that on RealOEM. Anyone know these torques? Plus anyone installed TIS on a windows 7 PC? For some reason my laptop (Win7) won't install it but my garage PC (XP) runs it fine.

Any help here is much appreciated..........

Mike

dunno whats happened to the pics, they were there in the preview..........
 

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The strut/coil over leg is quite a bit shorter than the stock item. You may have noticed it was less of a struggle offering it up that it was levering the old one out because of this. I ended up increasing the ride height on my bc coils from the factory setting which is definitely on the low side for uk roads.

The good news is that the fronts are much easier than the rears!
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I did notice exactly that. That is also good news as I anticipated that the front would be more difficult than the rear, can you recall the distance from lock ring to lock ring? Thanks for your input........

Mike
 

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Mike, I can't recall but it might have been as much as a half inch that we increased things on the shock body. On the drivers side front watch out for the headlight aiming plastic box with it's plastic lever arm that can easily snap(!)
 

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Here is a pic of the ride height from factory before we raised it. You can see it's quite low, still drivable but driveways needed some care.

 

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Bloody hell that is a bit low.

I like it though. Be interesting to see how it copes, or rather doesn't regarding sleeping policemen. I may have to raise mine a bit too ....................when i get them on
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Yeah that is low, I just want the wheel arch to be in line with the top of the tyre.......anyways, sorted the other rear, found a grease seal knackered on the wishbone so will have to get a new one there. Went to sort the front and man what a pain, I just can't get the shock off the wheel carrier, TIS calls it a swivel bearing. Followed TIS to the letter with no joy. The alloy shock body looks like its fused together with the swivel bearing. I've disconnected everything I dared to but just can't get it to split, I can't even remove the bolt that clamps the swivel bearing together around the shock body, its that tight I fear I'm gonna break something and I don't want to proper hang of it, this bolt should come right out, correct? Gave up for today had enough, if I can't get it to budge going to have to remove everything off the wheel carrier and remove the shock and carrier as one item.
 

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I reckon thats one of the reasons you're having probs Mike, because the bolt is still in the housing. IIRC the housing is also threaded and therefore the nut you have removed is just a locknut so it'll still be clamped tight.

Don't be scared to swing off it mate, sometimes on something thats been in the elements for 10 years thats just the way it is.
I would try to use a good penetrating fluid on the offending thread and also if you use a bit of gentle heat, and by that i mean a household blow torch etc, just gently warm the area, you should have some joy.

Don't go mad or too aggressive regarding the heat as you will transfer some heat to the shock, but in all honesty it should be minimal as the cast housing will take most of it, especially with a normal blow torch.

Also a good few whacks on the head of the bolt with a copper mallet will help to shock the bolt if you don't have an impact gun (and i assume you don't)

If you still feel a bit tentative, give me a shout and i'll bop up mate. You know it always gives in in the end :wroom:
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Ahh ok I thought about the housing being threaded, the bolt is too tight for anything else but am tellin you mate I was busitn a blood vessel and I thought this ain't right. I think I've got some flick somewhere I'll try that. I did try the forward reverse motion to see if it would loosen up but it was just as tight in the opposing direction. I'll give it another go tomorrow, but you are correct it will be the loser in the end.............keep you posted..............my opinion.............rears = easy, front = PITA..............:1zhelp:

Mike
 
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No probs Mike.

I've just logged onto my Virgin account and picked up your email tonight, which is why i haven't belled you.

I've just finished work and am back in tomorrow but i'll get a bit of time to ring you.

Afternoonish so if you're on nights you'll be out of bed dude.

Speak to you tomorrow mate

J
 
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