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Discussion Starter #1
I've been patient long enough and its all gone now. I'm in the process of (well trying) to replace the fuel rail and all 4 cps and tps sensors. Except I'm stuck. I can't get to the bolts to remove the wiring harness bracket on the drivers side. Little room, big hands and this coolant hose that no one else mentions in the other threads is more of a problem than the other 3.
20200310_162651.jpg


These are the only 2 tools I can manage to fit in such a crammed space.

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I'm too far in to call it quits and pay a shop to do it. Not to mention the "cheapest" quote I got was $800. No thanks. I tried to go underneath, but it was not any better because of that hose.

Seriously, how the bloody hell you guys that did it yourselves, get those bolts out?! I got one loose so far but still. I really would prefer to not have to drain the coolant to remove the hoses. Plus I don't think I could even get my hands in there to get that large one off.

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I had to grind down the bit and then use pliers on the bit. (Managed to drop the bit a few times too...)
 

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Go buy a set of ratchet wrenches, you will not regret the purchase. I have never had an issue with anything other than the bracket. I usually go from the bottom and on a hoist. No idea which tools I use but likely the one that fits best, but I have many sets of ratchet wrenches some that are straight, some on a fixed angle, even some that are flex angled and my favorite new set that adjusts to an angle then locks to get in those super hard places.
Here are some other things I know I would do if something was in my way. First step would be if I had hoses or wires in my way I would grab some handy mechanic wire go around the hose then pull it out of the way and wire it to something to hold it out of the way. Sometimes that means jamming a stick in somewhere and wiring to it. 1/2" sometimes makes all the difference, even if it is just so you can see it better.
 

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Gearwrenches, my friend.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I swore I had a gear wrench set but couldn't find it anywhere. Anyways I got them using 10mm socket with a 6mm hex and 6mm socket on a bit driver. Crude and a bit fiddly but it worked.

Stupid question, and I'm sure its been asked. But is the wiring harness box bracket really needed? I know installing it back together will be tricky, but if it saves me a headache in case I ever need to reach the area again later on then why bother? Obviously I'll bolt the rear fuel rail support back in but the harness box seems more of an annoyance putting it back.



20200310_174803.jpg


Sent from Uranus with Love.
 

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It will likely go in easier than out. It is there for a reason, you want that harness held in place. Two tricks double sided tape is one, as long as you line up things correctly. The other is use a drill bit or smaller bolt to line up one hole then swing the plate up and install the other.
 

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The coolant hoses definitely make it way worse on that side but I didn't end up needing to use a ratchet wrench. I probably just had a 1/4" drive back there. That hex driver though, completely necessary.
 

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I simply detached the cooling hoses and that gave enough room to work.
 

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Why are you replacing the fuel rail? That's not typically a part that needs replacing.
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
Why are you replacing the fuel rail? That's not typically a part that needs replacing.
It is when the supply hose for it, was rubbing against the plenum and does this. New ones are on backorder for who knows how long, so I sourced a good used one from Clemster.

20200218_135253.jpg


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Discussion Starter #11
Finally got the rail out. But annoyingly part of the vacuum hose that connects from the brake booster to the throttle body disentegrated. Anyone know if autozone, advance auto or napa might have a suitable hose replacement. Don't really have the time to order a whole new part. Looking to see if I can just replace that one part.
20200311_125519.jpg


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That is molded to that shape. So you can likely find a hose of the correct diameter but you will want to also get an elbow to make the turn. Then I would order the correct part and wait for it and install it when convenient. If that hose is in that condition the rest are likely the same. Might be different because it is molded and IIRC none of the others are. Nature of old rubber.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
That is molded to that shape. So you can likely find a hose of the correct diameter but you will want to also get an elbow to make the turn. Then I would order the correct part and wait for it and install it when convenient. If that hose is in that condition the rest are likely the same. Might be different because it is molded and IIRC none of the others are. Nature of old rubber.
I did source a good coolant hose from advance auto that'll work as a good temporarily fix. But there's so much brittle stuff that I'm going to have to go back through it all again soon and replace as much as I can even if it doesn't really need it as preventative. It really is bad in there.

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You are not alone, they all go that way. Heat seems to be something. The last one I bought was from the south and the rubber was a lot worse than any of the cars I have seen in Canada. But even northern cars need to have a ton of rubber replaced.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
My car spent its life in Florida from new until mid 2017. Then was in Wisconsin for just about 2 years before I got it. So no doubt that hot Florida sun didn't help the longevity of the hoses and plastics in the engine bay. Even the fuel breather valve broke in half as I was removing it. Good thing I ordered a new one before lol.

Its a littld bit frustrating, because its more stuff to replace in such a cramped space. Which isn't fun with my not large, but quite sizeable hands. But at the same time once its all sorted, it'll be good to know I won't have to worry about the stuff for a very long time after.

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I've been patient long enough and its all gone now. I'm in the process of (well trying) to replace the fuel rail and all 4 cps and tps sensors. Except I'm stuck. I can't get to the bolts to remove the wiring harness bracket on the drivers side. Little room, big hands and this coolant hose that no one else mentions in the other threads is more of a problem than the other 3.
View attachment 936442

These are the only 2 tools I can manage to fit in such a crammed space.

View attachment 936443

I'm too far in to call it quits and pay a shop to do it. Not to mention the "cheapest" quote I got was $800. No thanks. I tried to go underneath, but it was not any better because of that hose.

Seriously, how the bloody hell you guys that did it yourselves, get those bolts out?! I got one loose so far but still. I really would prefer to not have to drain the coolant to remove the hoses. Plus I don't think I could even get my hands in there to get that large one off.

Sent from Uranus with Love.

I had to remove the MIDDLE hose to gain more access. Some coolant will come out. You will also need a what I call a STUBBY SOCKET, it helps a lot.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Its all done and back together. Those wiring box brackets were just a pain to put back on bank 2 as they were to remove. Took the beast out for a drive after. Once warmed up, I took it on the freeway for a good ol thrashing. Car runs like new, its incredible what replacing those sensors can do to a car. They were all original ones made in Sept 2002, so it was way overdue. Though I also did replace both Mafs, all four O2 sensors, along with new air filters so I'm sure that helped too.

Just glad thats over with. Bank 1 stuff not bad, would have no problem doing it again.

But bank 2?...OH HELL NO, Bank 2 can go f**k itself! Lol.

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Glad you got it sorted and that it's running good again!
 
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