The bad ground wire I had located earlier. After narrowing it down, that section was the only ground gave me an ohm reading. When I tested that ground properly (took me awhile), I got 17.50Kohm, moved the wire slightly, got 350ohm.What is that?
I would not argue that voltage drop does not have it's place, but it is not here. It is useful when you find everything appears normal. It is pointless when a wire that should have 0 Ohms resistance has a fluctuating resistance.Voltage drop testing is more sensitive than looking at resistance if it's not a major break. This is from Rob Siegel who wrote a book on BMW electronics. The technique is otherwise the same. Start wide and then move in one connection at a time to pinpoint the bad one.
You don't get your point across well, I have a hard time understanding what you are trying to say. How did you measure that resistance? Have you measured the resistance from that joint to ground?The bad ground wire I had located earlier. After narrowing it down, that section was the only ground gave me an ohm reading. When I tested that ground properly (took me awhile), I got 17.50Kohm, moved the wire slightly, got 350ohm.
You don't get your point across well, I have a hard time understanding what you are trying to say. How did you measure that resistance? Have you measured the resistance from that joint to ground?
I wish you had of taken the picture, the ground goes to the body not a light. Again your post was very unclear and I really have no idea what you saw. I am guessing, but this might be simpler than you think. I think you are simply missing a wire to ground and your lights were working as a ground for sometime then finally sad screw this it is not my job when a part burnt out.
You used that for what? I still am having a hard time understanding all, that you are trying to say, sorry.The ground I used is located under the passenger light, to the body. Shown here.
I didn't do it right. Because I didn't understand what I was doing, I'm understand this a little more now, so I will re retest and see.But you told me you did and said the pump would not run?
That block is not likely the correct ground as the wire colors are not right.
When I get home tonight I will type out a list of test and the order they should be done in. You will learn how to diagnose from this and may even start to understand what all the tests are for. I am not going to write an essay but I will try to include what I am looking for with each test.
I get that. I have all this info and know how stored, I don't type it all out or would be typing for months on simple things. When you decide that some info you gave me was wrong or you are unsure you have to let me know. Diag is done like a tree, and you follow the tree by answering yes or no to specific things that rule things out. In this case that test in the linked thread is the most basic. It only has two answers yes the pump runs, or no the pump does not run. Depending on the answer you go right or left and because you said no it did not run I am all the way on the right hanging from my finger tips when maybe I should be all the way left sitting on a branch.I don't mean to confuse or mislead, I am trying my best given the situation.