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Discussion Starter #41
Hmmm i thought i should be able to move them , as was before i took it all apart

I've tried wiggleing it with the wrench but they are just stuck
 

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The new spring plates will make adv/ret the cams much more difficult with a wrench. Presume you have the timing spot on now? Try turning the crank with a 32mm a few times, then try retarding the cams at cyl 1 tdc to re-check your marks. Also if you loosen 3 of each of the 6 hub bolts a bit can you adv/ret the cams with a wrench ?
 

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Discussion Starter #44
Turned out it needed a lot of wiggleing but they are loose and everythings fine (timing spot on)

but then i put everything back together, everything went nicely ,but the B9 code is still there :(

New spring plates , new vanos solenoids o rings, new cps , tried swaping boards and cps but the code still is on Bank 1.
Getting pretty frustrated now , it must be some kind of a electrical problem
 

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It could be one other thing that I forgot about. Sorry now is not the time to mention it. The time to bring it up was when the covers were off. I only remember reading this once so it may not be worth chasing. The bolt that holds the disc that triggers the cam sensor came loose and the disc shifted some. There is a pin and it stayed on that but the disc was kocked(not a spelling mistake the correct spelling gets censored). I might also try switch CPS side for side if you have not.
 

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Discussion Starter #47
I did have a look at the disc on the end of the camshaft, it wasn't loose but i didn't really checked if it had could moved
I've tried swaping the cps , code always stays on bank 1

What would happend if i connect the bank 1 vanos board plug to engine bank 2 vanos plug and vice versa?

The Exhaust cam bank 1 is always at 2-4 degress no matter how i rev it
 

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That would indicate one of two things either the piston is no moving or maybe that there is something supplying volts to the CPS to make the DME think it is not moving. Like a short to positive rather than ground. If you search 68fb user name he posted some screens of the CPS reading which might give you an idea of what the volts output by the CPS at 2-4 degrees.

Maybe the DME is screwed, but before I went there I would want to see the piston move and I would jump the three cps wire from the DME to the cps to make sure it was not a partly broken wire or other short to positive.
 

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Discussion Starter #49 (Edited)
Hmm ok ,
--

And when you say jump the three cps wires , what do you exactly mean?

I've measured the voltages from the cps plug , pin 1 is 12volts , pin 2 is 5 volts (i assume signal wire) and pin 3 is ground and i confirm that the ground is good



I tried switching the vanos connections , connected vanos board bank 1 harness to engine bank 2 harness , and some one the other side , i started it up and it ran horribly but both exhaust cams were both at 60 degress now , so that tells me that the vanos piston move and that the cps is reading
 

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That is bizarre result. It might also confirm that the wiring is correct and sound. Pin two should fluctuate depending on position, it is the signal IIRC it is 5v and 0v, on off as the teeth of the disk flash in front of it. Pin one should be alt voltage or at least the same as terminal 30 and yes the ground goes to grnd rather to grnd via the DME.
 

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Discussion Starter #52
Could it be the dme? The dme triggers the signal to the vanos solenoids right?
Seems to me that signal is missing to the exhaust solenoids
 

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I think your only choice is to probe signals right at the DME at this point. That said your last test might have confirmed that signal is there. I have not had a chance to look at the WDS to see what you actually did, I am assuming that the reason for the strange result is because the wrong solenoids were open, just as they switch jobs when moved to the other side I would assume that the plugs don't operate the same either.
 

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Discussion Starter #54
I talked to 68FB , he said the exact same thing as you Sailor , to probe the signals from the DME.
He also said that the exhaust outlet solenoids is the one not getting a signal

But i'm not quite sure how i probe the signals , could you explain in more detail?

And Merry Christmas :)
 

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Back probing is not easy and you will likely need a a magnifying glass and extra light. In theory it is as simple as sticking you digital volt meter probe in the harness that plugs into the DME. The problem is lack of room and multiple rows of connectors. For me the hardest part is finding the correct pin, bad eyes. Most people have a problem actually making and keeping contact on the pin. One thing you need is an alligator clip that slides on to the probe. If you are testing grnds you can clip it to positive if testing positive you clip it to a grnd. That frees up at least one hand but cuts frustration by 3/4s.

Not everyone would do it this way because it has issues. I made up another tool with the other alligator clip as they come in packs of two for your meter. I soldered a straight pin on it so instead of struggling to hold the probe in a confined area I simply pull the DME look at which pins I need to probe and find which wire that is and put a big piece of masking tape on it with notes. I then put every thing back and start up the car and push the pin right through the wire and it holds by itself so I can do other things including hold the meter so my old eyes can read it easier.

Maybe you are asking which pins to probe? they can be found in the WDS but if you are having issues I can look those up and post the diagrams and pin outs.
 

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Discussion Starter #58
This is kinda getting out of my electrical capability haha

How hard is it to swap the Dme? does it need to be reprogrammed or is it just a plug and play?

A friend of mine has a spare Dme that i can try out
 

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Pretty sure the DME swap is more work. Think you would have a lot of programming to get everything talking. Likely more than just the DME.
 
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