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Discussion Starter #1
I got the B9 Exhaust camshaft vanos position control code

So far i replaced the exhaust cps , switch sides to confirm it's working and it is

Checked the vanos solenoids and board , also confirm that it's not that by switching sides

Any ideas?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
No changed both exhaust , no change still error on bank 1 , so i switched cps to see if code would move from bank 1 to bank 2 but no luck still bank 1
 

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You don't want to test the sensor itself since it's new, you want to test the circuit with the sensor plugged in. Use wire-piercing probes, put the voltmeter on AC volts. Pull out the fuel pump relay so the car doesn't start. Have someone crank the engine while you watch the meter. You should see about 1 volt.
 

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When you get position control alone it is usually a failed diode on the board. The solenoids will still work but the diode will not be absorbing the produced electricity so the solenoid does not close exactly when it should. If all your diodes are fine then it is likely a leaking solenoid. Sometimes they leak for mechanical failure and all the cleaning in the world will not help, you just have to replace it. Dis vanos test will point you to the correct cause.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Still no solution , checked the wiring everything seems good

Sailor24 , yes i understand but shoulndt the error code switch from bank 1 to 2 if i switched the boards?

I'm starting to think that i may be some vanos piston issues / timing ?
 

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My bad. I re read your first post and got it wrong the first time.You replaced a CPS and switched it side for. Then you swapped the boards side for? Through all this the code has remained the same? You have cleared the codes in between? I assume yes.
Could be hydraulic but finish checking the wiring first. There is this strange ground fault, it is located in the injector wire housing, but you need not go there just jump a wire to the grounds of the boards. A temp wire with a couple of alligator clips. Find a good/easy bolt and clip there then to the ground wire on the board. If no change then think hydraulic.
If it is hydraulic with that code it would be piston seals failed, unusual but there is a kit for it. Many posts on the system, I have no experience with it. In all the cars I have seen I have never seen anything but board failure.
If you want to read about the failure. It was first posted by one of the Aussies put vinegar in your search as this is how he cleaned it. Sorry don't remember who but the Aussies like to start their names with M5.
 

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I don't want to create panic but maybe one of the vanos units failed. It's a rare occurrence but can happen...it happened to me. I had a B8 code and followed a similar path that you have without fixing the problem. Turned out the vanos unit shredded itself.
Try opening the oil cap and looking towards the vanos to see if anything looks out of the ordinary. Other side will be more difficult to check. Pull the oil filter to see if you have any metal in it. Lastly drop the oil pan to see if there are any remnants of a failed vanos.
Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Sailor24 : Alright i will check that tomorrow , any suggestions on what to check otherwise?

mech9t8 : I'll guess ill pull the valve covers off and check , i dropped the pan recentley and nothing out of the ordinary there.

Also there has always been a ticking sound coming from that bank 1 , i just assumed it to be the vanos sound but maybe this is the problem of the ticking sound , since i belive ive had this code for a quite a long time, the car seems to work fine so i've never really bother fixing it but now i want to fix it


I'm always open for some suggestion no matter how crazy / unlikley they are :)
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
So i pulled the vanos boards out again , one thing that struck me is that when i pulled bank 1 is that the oil seemed to have alot of air bubbels compared to the bank 2


Update : i pulled the covers for the pistons , the exhaust cover was full of oil inside (bad seal)? While the inlet cover there was no oil

Could thos be the culprit?
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Checked the bank 2 covers , they were full of oil aswell so that must be normal

Recap

B9 - Exhaust camshaft vanos postion control bank 1 (Exhaust retard dosen't retard more then 6-7 degrees according to reader, (should retard all the way to 60ish degrees i belive ))

Engine ticking on bank 1 when hot ( not sure if that related to the code but likley)



Have swapped the Boards and put in new cps and swapped them aswell and the error always stays on bank 1 side


I have no idea where to look to next , was wondering if i could maybe meassure output voltage on the bank 1 vanos connector (from DME) ?
Maybe pull the vanos units off and do the beisan vanos procedure , dont know if that will help anything
 

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You know the boards are good? You have activated them with a 9v battery and click crisp and all the same? Assuming yes, you might want to check the oil flow out of bank 1 and compare it to bank 2. You do that by taking the drain hose and run it to a bottle instead of the pan.

Next or before see if the piston will move in all the way, you have to push hard and rotate the engine at the same time. Could be the splines are screwed and the piston is limited in its movement.

I had one like yours and thought it was the piston seal but when I switched boards I got different results on the valve timing. With one board I had a small advance/retard but with the other board it was maxed out. If an inlet is leaking the outlet will stay open to allow for that but if the outlet leaks badly then there is no hope to keep oil in there. When you switch boards what was intake becomes exhaust and inlets become outlets.

Piston seals do fail but not often and what you are seeing does look like the seal is letting oil past it. If that is true you will get no oil out of the drain tube because it is blowing by the seal and getting to the pan that way.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Sailor24: Hmm i will go and try that but when you say "drain hose" do you mean the overflow hose (see pic) ? Won't there be alot of pressure?


Also you say to see if the piston will move , do you mean that i open the piston covers and try to push the pistons with my hand while someone turns the engine?
 

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I will suggest you search for some of 68fb posts on this. I am just going on memory and parroting what he said since he is not here to say it again.

There is not much pressure on the out from the vanos. The pressure will only be there when the solenoids outlet is active. It should not be active at idle except for an initial adjustment. The solenoids don't operate constantly, they adjust then do nothing until the next adjustment.
 

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My bad. I re read your first post and got it wrong the first time.You replaced a CPS and switched it side for. Then you swapped the boards side for? Through all this the code has remained the same? You have cleared the codes in between? I assume yes.
Could be hydraulic but finish checking the wiring first. There is this strange ground fault, it is located in the injector wire housing, but you need not go there just jump a wire to the grounds of the boards. A temp wire with a couple of alligator clips. Find a good/easy bolt and clip there then to the ground wire on the board. If no change then think hydraulic.
If it is hydraulic with that code it would be piston seals failed, unusual but there is a kit for it. Many posts on the system, I have no experience with it. In all the cars I have seen I have never seen anything but board failure.
If you want to read about the failure. It was first posted by one of the Aussies put vinegar in your search as this is how he cleaned it. Sorry don't remember who but the Aussies like to start their names with M5.
That was me, 12 Jan 2015, thread was "Vanos codes and rough running after new board"

Had to strip injector harness to chase a short in the earth to the DME, was a connector in the harness gone bad..
 

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It was first posted by one of the Aussies put vinegar in your search as this is how he cleaned it. Sorry don't remember who but the Aussies like to start their names with M5.
That was me, 12 Jan 2015, thread was "Vanos codes and rough running after new board"

Had to strip injector harness to chase a short in the earth to the DME, was a connector in the harness gone bad..
Scary huh....

yes, an Aussie. No name didnt start with M5.

;)
 
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