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Yes there are 2 relays in the box you should change out. The smg hyd pump is 61366901469 and Tischers price is 10.94. Of course this one gets a lot of hard use. The other one is the smg transmission oil pump which moves transmission oil through the cooler. That one is salmon color and it's part number is 12631742690 for 6.94. Since I'm in the relay box anyway, I change both when I do spark plugs. I always buy 2 each so I have a spare in the garage. How many times have we read where someone is left walking and their car is flatbeded to the dealer just for the burned out relay. I think they should be changed often, they are cheap.
 

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When I get a E60 I will make sure this is the one of the first things I do!!!!
 

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Agreed. One theory I read somewhere was if the relay starts to go bad, then maybe it's not supplying 100% power to the smg hyd pump and they too burn out. I don't know but for 10.00 I'm keeping it fresh.
 

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What all is entailed in changing these 2 parts. Is there a lot of proficiency needed, because I have very little but would love to do this.
 

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Very easy. Remove the micro filter on passenger side in the engine compartment. Now remove the bottom tray that the micro filter sat in. The L and R trays overlap in the middle and you have 1 plastic nut there to rotate 90 degrees. That one nut is under a plastic cover you must slide off. I think there are (4) 13mm plastic nut heads that rotate 90 degrees to get the tray out. Just like the one on the micro filter cover. One metal screw with a torx head in the front. Now you will see a relay box that takes a #5 allen wrench. Remove the 5 screws and near the firewall you will see a white plastic tab that you must slide to the unlocked position. Pull the cover off and you will now see the realys. The black one closest to the firewall is the smg hyd relay. There is a plastic ridge on top of the relay. Grab that with plyers and pull straight up. PAY ATTENTION to the orientation of the metal prongs on the relay when you pull it out. This way you know which way to align the new one when you push it in. You can't get down there to see it if you don't do this. Towards the fender is a salmon colored relay. That's the smg oil pump relay. That's it. Put everything back in reverse order.
 

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When I open the door the smg pump comes on goes off briefly and then comes back on (intermittently), will be changing these relays tomorrow.
 

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Just replaced these relays, it was a breeze. hopefully my smg pump starts priming correctly. I opened the smg pump relay and the contacts looked dirty and with a black dust.
 

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This relay controls power to the SMG pump. The pump can't stay
on all the time so whenever it needs to be primed (starting the car,
maintain pressure etc), it switches.

It eventually goes bad and I believe it's a weak link which can potentially
damage the pump with irregular power regulation.
 

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Very easy. Remove the micro filter on passenger side in the engine compartment. Now remove the bottom tray that the micro filter sat in. The L and R trays overlap in the middle and you have 1 plastic nut there to rotate 90 degrees. That one nut is under a plastic cover you must slide off. I think there are (4) 13mm plastic nut heads that rotate 90 degrees to get the tray out. Just like the one on the micro filter cover. One metal screw with a torx head in the front. Now you will see a relay box that takes a #5 allen wrench. Remove the 5 screws and near the firewall you will see a white plastic tab that you must slide to the unlocked position. Pull the cover off and you will now see the realys. The black one closest to the firewall is the smg hyd relay. There is a plastic ridge on top of the relay. Grab that with plyers and pull straight up. PAY ATTENTION to the orientation of the metal prongs on the relay when you pull it out. This way you know which way to align the new one when you push it in. You can't get down there to see it if you don't do this. Towards the fender is a salmon colored relay. That's the smg oil pump relay. That's it. Put everything back in reverse order.

When these relays start to burn/get tired, will it throw a transmission error code ?? I got the big red cog error this last weekend after the car had been sitting a few hours.... Clutch is having a hard time engaging.... waits till about 3000, then WOW.....Hoping it's just a relay or sensor....... Jon
 

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Discussion Starter #17
When these relays start to burn/get tired, will it throw a transmission error code ?? I got the big red cog error this last weekend after the car had been sitting a few hours.... Clutch is having a hard time engaging.... waits till about 3000, then WOW.....Hoping it's just a relay or sensor....... Jon
Yes. If its the relay you won't hear your pump priming at all or as often as it should.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I717 using Tapatalk 2
 

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Make this sticky or link to DIY thread.
 

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Agreed. One theory I read somewhere was if the relay starts to go bad, then maybe it's not supplying 100% power to the smg hyd pump and they too burn out. I don't know but for 10.00 I'm keeping it fresh.
Missed this statement a while back Bill, but very true and even likely. If relay contacts have high resistance, they drop some voltage across them and less is available for the pump motor. The motor will draw the power it needs, so if supply voltage goes down, current goes up. More current through the brushes means faster wear.
 
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