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Correction I took the car into European Auto in Anaheim, California , new ACL .001 oversized . So far they have been great I will know more when I pick the car up tomorrow . The price was right too
 

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which shop

It came down to timing they both had good reviews .
MRF had even little bit better reviews . But they had not got back with me . ( and EAS could fit me right in ) I had request a price quote ( from MRF) . Nothing negative about them . I had planned on taking it to them . Then I found EAS . I had also looked at some shops in Arizona but these cars are more common here in California ( I live in AZ but work in CA right now) . The one shop in PHX was about 1k more . Long story short I miss read the email and thought I was taking it to MRF up until the day of service ( been working a lot of hours and switching from day shift to nights and wasn't thinking right ) . Then got a email from EAS and seen the sig block said EAS and not MRF. But on a side note EAS normally does not use ACL,s but had used them for a few people upon request . And being I had already bought them they reduced their price and said they had no problem using my supplied bearing. I had them supply all other parts ( Rod bolts gasket oil ,etc ) .There shop was in order ( when I got there to pick up my car ) , they had good customer service. So I just got the car today and had to trailer it home so I haven't driven it much so I will post any thing that comes up but so far so good price was fair too
 

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update info

On a another note , I had asked EAS to look the car over ( steering , etc) to see if there was anything that needed attention. They didn't try to sell me anything I didn't need and stuck to their price quoted , matter of fact I am pretty sure they charged me less than amount quoted .
 

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^ I've been looking for a shop also (in SoCal).
I assume your shop was, European Auto Source [EAS]?

I have BE Bearings and ARP Rod Bolts.
Hoping shops will be OK with installing those.
 

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good shop

^ I've been looking for a shop also (in SoCal).
I assume your shop was, European Auto Source [EAS]?

I have BE Bearings and ARP Rod Bolts.
Hoping shops will be OK with installing those.
They had my car for about 4 days to do the work, they had to order the rod bolts, but they should have no problem with using your parts ( as they used the bearings I supplied ) Ask For Kevin & and yes European auto source . The price was very competitive . Tell them I sent you ( Chad Jones ) they just had my car last week.
I haven't drove my car ( just to the car hauler ) I am waiting for the dang rain to stop for a few days before I off load it
 

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Not the worst, but also pretty worn.
 

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How many miles are on those? Assuming the ones with more wear are the uppers? I've had my car for about three weeks and the bearings done about 10k ago. Trying to prepare for the future.

The oil viscosity discussion is interesting. I have been working on cars since I was old enough to walk. I have been sailing on ships as an engineer for almost 30 years. The rotation of the crank and friction wedge prevent the crank from touching the bearing. A lower viscosity oil would flow more at a given pressure and provide more cooling. Based on my knowledge start up is when 90% of bearing wear takes place. I plan on installing an accumulator to reduce bearing wear.

The other part of the equation is RPM/Mile. If you are revving an engine to 7k and doing 50mph you have 350,000rev/mile. If you are cruising at 2000rpm you have 100,000rev/mile. As you can see the actual number of rotations the engine makes per our standard unit of measurement is higher. I think for what they are the engine do pretty darn well considering what we are getting out of them
 

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How many miles are on those? Assuming the ones with more wear are the uppers? I've had my car for about three weeks and the bearings done about 10k ago. Trying to prepare for the future.

The oil viscosity discussion is interesting. I have been working on cars since I was old enough to walk. I have been sailing on ships as an engineer for almost 30 years. The rotation of the crank and friction wedge prevent the crank from touching the bearing. A lower viscosity oil would flow more at a given pressure and provide more cooling. Based on my knowledge start up is when 90% of bearing wear takes place. I plan on installing an accumulator to reduce bearing wear.

The other part of the equation is RPM/Mile. If you are revving an engine to 7k and doing 50mph you have 350,000rev/mile. If you are cruising at 2000rpm you have 100,000rev/mile. As you can see the actual number of rotations the engine makes per our standard unit of measurement is higher. I think for what they are the engine do pretty darn well considering what we are getting out of them
Curious how would you install the accumalotor?
 

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How many miles are on those? Assuming the ones with more wear are the uppers? I've had my car for about three weeks and the bearings done about 10k ago. Trying to prepare for the future.

The oil viscosity discussion is interesting. I have been working on cars since I was old enough to walk. I have been sailing on ships as an engineer for almost 30 years. The rotation of the crank and friction wedge prevent the crank from touching the bearing. A lower viscosity oil would flow more at a given pressure and provide more cooling. Based on my knowledge start up is when 90% of bearing wear takes place. I plan on installing an accumulator to reduce bearing wear.

The other part of the equation is RPM/Mile. If you are revving an engine to 7k and doing 50mph you have 350,000rev/mile. If you are cruising at 2000rpm you have 100,000rev/mile. As you can see the actual number of rotations the engine makes per our standard unit of measurement is higher. I think for what they are the engine do pretty darn well considering what we are getting out of them
I thought rpm stands for revolutions per minute. So if you're going 7k, and you're going 50mph, roughly little under a mile per minute why would your engine spin more than 7k? Even if you are considering each bearing as stand alone, that'd still be 7000 x 10? 70,000?
 

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How many miles are on those? Assuming the ones with more wear are the uppers? I've had my car for about three weeks and the bearings done about 10k ago. Trying to prepare for the future.

The oil viscosity discussion is interesting. I have been working on cars since I was old enough to walk. I have been sailing on ships as an engineer for almost 30 years. The rotation of the crank and friction wedge prevent the crank from touching the bearing. A lower viscosity oil would flow more at a given pressure and provide more cooling. Based on my knowledge start up is when 90% of bearing wear takes place. I plan on installing an accumulator to reduce bearing wear.

The other part of the equation is RPM/Mile. If you are revving an engine to 7k and doing 50mph you have 350,000rev/mile. If you are cruising at 2000rpm you have 100,000rev/mile. As you can see the actual number of rotations the engine makes per our standard unit of measurement is higher. I think for what they are the engine do pretty darn well considering what we are getting out of them
I've been down the thinner oil route and after 14k miles pulled the OEM clearance bearings. Zero improvement, same pattern of wear indicating starvation. I've now had 7 engines apart with larger (more correct) oil clearance bearings and while wear occurs on any plain bearing, the degree is far, far less and the pattern more uniform, indicative of proper lubrication. On these engines, the wear occurs at high RPM as the film depletion rate is greater than the supply rate and the thickness of the oil wedge insufficient. Increasing the oil clearance and staying with the 10W-60 (oddly, per Clevite's recommendation) yields a properly running and wearing motor.
 

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I've been down the thinner oil route and after 14k miles pulled the OEM clearance bearings. Zero improvement, same pattern of wear indicating starvation. I've now had 7 engines apart with larger (more correct) oil clearance bearings and while wear occurs on any plain bearing, the degree is far, far less and the pattern more uniform, indicative of proper lubrication. On these engines, the wear occurs at high RPM as the film depletion rate is greater than the supply rate and the thickness of the oil wedge insufficient. Increasing the oil clearance and staying with the 10W-60 (oddly, per Clevite's recommendation) yields a properly running and wearing motor.

Very good info. Thanks Jim.

In your opinion, the variability we are seeing in bearing wear from car to car, do you think this is down to user treatment, or variations in the bearing clearance?
 

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For 104k miles they don't really look that bad. My bearings were done 10k ago by the PO. Whatever is in there i'm stuck with for now. I agree with you assessment about clearance and starvation. For me the only things I can change is the oil and add an accumulator. There is a thread on the forum, not like it was my idea. Not sure it will solve the problem but I am sure it won't hurt. Somewhere after the oil filter with a solenoid activated by the start command for the engine.
 

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Very good info. Thanks Jim.

In your opinion, the variability we are seeing in bearing wear from car to car, do you think this is down to user treatment, or variations in the bearing clearance?
I'm not Jim but yes, in my opinion engine to engine variation means you could have a larger clearance engine and experience less wear. Explains the odd one that shows up from time to time showing little wear.

I've been down the thinner oil route and after 14k miles pulled the OEM clearance bearings. Zero improvement, same pattern of wear indicating starvation. I've now had 7 engines apart with larger (more correct) oil clearance bearings and while wear occurs on any plain bearing, the degree is far, far less and the pattern more uniform, indicative of proper lubrication. On these engines, the wear occurs at high RPM as the film depletion rate is greater than the supply rate and the thickness of the oil wedge insufficient. Increasing the oil clearance and staying with the 10W-60 (oddly, per Clevite's recommendation) yields a properly running and wearing motor.
Evidence like this should be in a sticky. Even then people will still claim the issue is due to too thick oil...
 

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I'm not Jim but yes, in my opinion engine to engine variation means you could have a larger clearance engine and experience less wear. Explains the odd one that shows up from time to time showing little wear.



Evidence like this should be in a sticky. Even then people will still claim the issue is due to too thick oil...


Exactly it’s not all about thick oil.


2010 E60 M5 • Space Grey
 

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I've been down the thinner oil route and after 14k miles pulled the OEM clearance bearings. Zero improvement, same pattern of wear indicating starvation. I've now had 7 engines apart with larger (more correct) oil clearance bearings and while wear occurs on any plain bearing, the degree is far, far less and the pattern more uniform, indicative of proper lubrication. On these engines, the wear occurs at high RPM as the film depletion rate is greater than the supply rate and the thickness of the oil wedge insufficient. Increasing the oil clearance and staying with the 10W-60 (oddly, per Clevite's recommendation) yields a properly running and wearing motor.
Hi jcolley,
Which rod bearings would you recommend..?
 

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for those interested, i'm almost at 30k on my ACL bearings with zero issues. I also supercharged it a few months ago. No issues. I'm looking at every fin on the filter looking for copper flakes, and at the first sign of it, i'll do another bearing change and post the bearing conditions. My plan was to just do bearing change at 30k and show you the ACL bearing conditions, but man... I'm enjoying this car too much! maybe i'll do it one of these weekends. I feel I can probably do it much faster this time and forget about plastigage, vanos pump assembly, and all that.

I have the extra clearanced ACL race bearings straight from ACL. I forget the actual part number. I posted it up on my original thread when I was doing the bearing change. Personally, that's what I recommend. No, I'm not being paid or incentivized to say that.
 
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