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Discussion Starter #1
So I read some good reviews about the CRC MAF cleaner on this forum. I had experienced some flakiness with the throttle response..."nervousness" described it pretty well. Very slight, but I could notice it.

I grabbed a bottle at my local Kragen and sprayed the MAFS. It took about 15 minutes, I used maybe 1/4 of the bottle. The instructions say 10-15 sprays, whatever that means. Immediately after start up I noticed a smoother idle. On a short drive I was VERY impressed with the improvement. Throttle response is much improved, no more hesitations at throttle tip in. It pulls smoother and stronger from a 2k rpm dig in the higher gears. (3,4,5) WOT felt stronger as well, especially in the upper RPM range. Maybe it's just me but I swear the car even sounds different. Butt dyno says 10hp reclaimed =) Best $6 bucks I ever spent. I think I'll do this every 5-10k miles, assuming there are no long term ill effects for cleaning the MAFS.
 

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Ok, I'm convinced 110% now that I need to do this.

I ordered my Torx bits last night.

I can't wait to see what difference there is. I definitely have the symptoms described by so many.
 

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You don't need the Torx bits. Just a needle nose plier around the outside of the screws.

Using the cleaner on MAF's can help, but only temporarily. The MAF's degenerate over time, to the point of being useless; additional cleaning won't help.

Probably Every 40K miles they need to be replaced to get all the HP out of the S62.
 

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You don't need the Torx bits. Just a needle nose plier around the outside of the screws.

Using the cleaner on MAF's can help, but only temporarily. The MAF's degenerate over time, to the point of being useless; additional cleaning won't help.

Probably Every 40K miles they need to be replaced to get all the HP out of the S62.
Yeah, I realize they will need to be replaced. I have 26k on my car right now, but I mainly want to clean them as a diagnostic tool. If it helps, I'll have new MAFs on order. I'm just getting a lot of the same symptoms people report.
 

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Search feature would be your friend here as this issue has been discussed here many times.

MAF's wear out after around 50,000 miles. Cleaning it with CRC definitely works but temporarily only, it will surely go bad again as the sensor is simply wearing out.

Most people here including me have had great success with VW MAF so we highly recommend the VW MAF as they are a lot cheaper than original M5 MAF.

Time is money, so I suggest to replace your MAF if it has more than 50,000 miles and not having to worry about them again for another 50,000 miles.
 

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Yes, definitely, if you have less than 40,000 miles on your MAFs, cleaning them with CRC is absolutely a great idea.

Yeah, I realize they will need to be replaced. I have 26k on my car right now, but I mainly want to clean them as a diagnostic tool. If it helps, I'll have new MAFs on order. I'm just getting a lot of the same symptoms people report.
 

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I couldn't find the torx bits so I went to Lowes to get a phillips head screw match. It was a #10 3/4 wood zinc wood screw. Best $2 I've spent. Now the MAF's come out with ease. Needle noses work OK too.
 

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MAFS--Amazing Results

I read these posts last night and was sold. I thought it was in my head, the lack of power around 3 to 4K RPMs. Went out today, and purchased the non residue MAFS cleaner (6 bucks). Didn't do any Simple Green or Alcohol, just sprayed directly onto sensors. I can't put into words how happy I am. Amazing results. I just hope I don't jinx it with these words. I know I'll probably have to replace them soon (53000 miles) but more importantly I got my power back. THANKS TO ALL THE GREAT POST BOTH CURRENT AND IN THE PAST REGARDING THIS MATTER. This site is the best thing to happen to the internet since... well you know.
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
I read these posts last night and was sold. I thought it was in my head, the lack of power around 3 to 4K RPMs. Went out today, and purchased the non residue MAFS cleaner (6 bucks). Didn't do any Simple Green or Alcohol, just sprayed directly onto sensors. I can't put into words how happy I am. Amazing results. I just hope I don't jinx it with these words. I know I'll probably have to replace them soon (53000 miles) but more importantly I got my power back. THANKS TO ALL THE GREAT POST BOTH CURRENT AND IN THE PAST REGARDING THIS MATTER. This site is the best thing to happen to the internet since... well you know.

335i owners better watch out for the clean-MAF M5 crew....:M5launch: lol


As for instructions..there were some pictures posted up if you search a bit. Basically you can use a security Torx bit or needle nose on those Torx screws to remove the MAFS from their housings. To remove the MAF housing, just unclip and remove the top half of the airbox and loosen the clamp on the MAF housing to intake joint with a flathead screwdriver. Just be careful not to touch the actual MAF sensor wire.

It may be easier to just remove the entire MAF housing, and spray it with the MAF sensor still in place. Then you don't have to worry about the Torx bit or touching the sensor wire. The CRC cleaner sprays forcefully with the provided straw, so you can spray in there pretty good.
 

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I just got done using CRC this afternoon. I didn't have the hex, and my needle nose pliers didn't do the job, so I just removed the airbox real quick (took about 5 minutes). After spray and re-assembly, took it for a quick test drive. I didn't feel a difference...I *think* the car feels slower (i.e. didn't pull as hard as I remember) :dunno: My car has 43k miles. I'm going to test drive the car again tomorrow and repost my findings...
 

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to test your MAFS - - -

originally posted by MarcK #11;

http://www.m5board.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=1898

As promised, here are the instructions on how to get to the "Test Modes" of the OBC. I didn't run into any trouble, but as always, do this at your own risk :) BMW apparently doesn't want you to play with this, so most modes are locked. Once you unlock them, they remain unlocked, until you bring in your car for service, or explicitly lock them yourself.

UNLOCK PROCEDURE:

1) Key to ignition pos 2 (no need to start engine).
2) Fasten the seat belt to get rid of the "Fasten Seat Belt" message.
3) Press the right button on the instrument panel, and hold it until "TEST-NR. 01" comes up (5 to 10 seconds).
4) Press the left button on the instrument panel, and the vehicle id comes up (last 7 digits of VIN).
5) Add up the last 5 digits to get the "unlock code", e.g. the unlock code for "AB12345" would be 15 (1+2+3+4+5).
6) Repeatedly press the right button until "TEST-NR. 19" appears.
7) Press left button -> "LOCK : ON"
8) Repeatedly press left button until "LOCK : xx" appears, where "xx" is your unlock code.
9. Press the right button. All modes are unlocked now.

NAVIGATING BETWEEN TESTS AND PERFORMING THEM:

- Follow steps 1) to 3) of the "UNLOCK PROCEDURE" to enter test mode.
- Use the right button to step from test to test.
- Press the left button to enter a test and cycle between modes within a test.
- Press and hold the right button to exit test mode (turning the key to 0 works as well).

Here is what I know about the various test modes:

2) Instrument test: Cute light show in the instrument panel. Ever wanted to see the speedo show 190 without having to leave the garage?

3) Don't know.

4) Current fuel consumption in liters per 100 kilometers and in liters per hour.

5) Average fuel consumption in liters per 100 kilometers and range.

6) Current fuel levels in left tank, right tank, and total.

7) Engine temperature (not sure where measured), engine RPM, and outside temperature.

8) Current speed in kilometers per hour.

9) Battery voltage.

10) Country.

11) Don't know.

12) Not sure what these are. Could be average speed used to calculate arrival time for distance to destination set in OBC?

13) Sound test. Goes through the various gong sounds.

14) Don't know. Could be some diagnostic codes.

15) DOn't know. Looks like a real-time readout of some registers.

16) Oil temperature. I sometimes get a bogus -48 degrees C when the engine is not running. Corrects itself when the engine is on.

17) Don't know.

18) Doesn't do anything.

19) Locking & unlocking of the test modes.

20) Don't know.

21) Don't know. This test asks you "RESET?". Let me know what it does, if you're brave enough to try it. I'd recommend to stay clear, though.
 
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