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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have an 07 m6 with xenon's and angels. How can I use my angels as daytime running lights like the new models?
 

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Here's one way. There is also a pre made relay kit available by one of the advertisers on the Board. I don't recall which one, but it's essentially a pre made kit of the attached home made version. It works without errors. Basically gives you Ignition on power to the AE's whether the headlight switch is on or off. When the headlight switch is turned on, the relays de energize and power is applied through the normal car wiring. If I can find the item number and source I will re post.

Good luck. It's an easy mod

http://www.m5board.com/vbulletin/e3...n/137130-diy-wiring-your-angel-eyes-drls.html

http://www.m5board.com/vbulletin/e3...n/137130-diy-wiring-your-angel-eyes-drls.html
 

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Wirelessly posted (Mozilla/5.0 (iPhone; U; CPU iPhone OS 4_1 like Mac OS X; en-us) AppleWebKit/532.9 (KHTML, like Gecko) Version/4.0.5 Mobile/8B117 Safari/6531.22.7)

Knight75. Found it. Actually it's JleviSW that carries it. Nick, it's the DAEOs kit you sell (or
used to). I used the one JleviSW sells

Quote from another post by Cal at JleviSW:

We do offer a wiring kit that will enable this feature...its our Daeos Daytime AE operation system.



I'd double check to make sure your car isn't an LCI first, however.

__________________
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Zerock 1.. Just got off the phone with Nick @ JleviSW. He said the Daeos kit was made for the 3 series. Hes not aware if it can be fitted to work on a M6. Did you use this kit your M6??? if so, did you have to make any changes to make it work. Thanks !!!!
 

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I did use it on my M6. A 2007. No problems at all. Be happy to assist you with the precise wiring. It's relatively easy.
 

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I did use it on my M6. A 2007. No problems at all. Be happy to assist you with the precise wiring. It's relatively easy.
Hey, I'd be interested to see that post as well. Always wanted to have my AEs on without turning on lights.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
That would be great !,,, will in turn off my drl that is on now, and just leave the AE on or will I have both ? I can't wait !! Lol
 

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DYI to make AEs DRLs

Attached are the full instructions to wire an M6 Angel Eyes for use as DRLs

This is at your own risk

Suggestions and tips:
- The power wire you will be connecting (the wire referred to as a power wire from fuse box), is an ignition on +12v wire. That means there is only power to that wire when the car is on, or the start-stop switch is in the ignition on position. I strongly urge you to use an inline fuse from the car power to the red wire on the DAEOS Angel Eye wiring system. I used a mini 3a fuse. The wire you are going to tap into is in the large wiring harness, under the hood, passenger side running from below the cabin filter area towards the front of the car (picture below)

If you carefully cut the OEM tape back you will see a red/white wire. Thats the wire you will tap into. There are many choices of tap in connectors. Personally I like the one with a spade lug crimp. Radio Shack or other electronic stores carry them. You will need four of them

I also strongly advise you to disconnect the negative battery cable in the trunk prior to beginning wire connection work

There are five wires in total you will be connecting (page 1 of the attachment)

-The Red wire on the left side of the picture with the spade lug see through cover, is the one you tap into the red/white wire described above
- The black wire is the ground lug, which you attach to a nearby chassis ground connection. (see pix below)
- The purple wire is attached to a tap in, to the passenger side low beam 12v line. The diagram shows to a yellow/blue stripe. If you have a meter, insure you tap into the 12 v side which you'll need to check before you disconnect the car battery. Access to both the passenger side and driver side wiring for the low beam and the angel eyes (next step) are accessible through the covers in the front wheel wheels. Turn the steering wheel far left to access the drives side, and far right for the passenger side. You'll need to do this with the car battery connected
- Finally, the remaining two wires tap in to the passenger and drivers side 12v angel eye existing wiring. Theses are are also accessible through the wheel well opening. I believe the yellow wire is the 12v side, but again, a verification with a meter is essential. It taps into the 12 v side when the AEs are active of course

Thats it. I wrapped the whole relay system with BMW OEM tape and stuffed it under the large hose in the picture

So now the AEs are on anytime the cars ignition is on or started, and they remain on when the headlights are on either in auto mode or manually. There is a short delay (3-5 seconds) after the care is turned off, before the AEs turn off. Thats normal. That red-white wire is timed to deactivate a few seconds after the care is turned off

The attachment is a pictorial of this

Happy modding

http://www.jlevistreetwerks.com/daeosguide.pdf

**Note; this pdf set of instructions seems to be for a 3 Series; the wire you will need for power is as I've described above
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
thank you for all your help. a few questions..

1. does it matter what type of upgraded AE bulbs i use ( ie angel bright)
2. if im planning to add DRL's like dans ( Hella) will that be a issue?

Again, thanks for all help!
Bobby
 

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thank you for all your help. a few questions..

1. does it matter what type of upgraded AE bulbs i use ( ie angel bright)
2. if im planning to add DRL's like dans ( Hella) will that be a issue?

Again, thanks for all help!
Bobby
Any type of AE, including the AIbrights will work. This mod merely provides the same power to the AEs whether the headlights are on or off, bulb agnostic

Adding the Hella's are independent of this mod. The Hella's will be controlled by a switch you may choose to install or using the headlight switch in the parking light position, or other of your choice.

There are a number of threads on both topics. If you search under Hella DRL or Angel Eyes, many previous posts will give you many options for both.
 

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Zerocks, Very helpful post here. I am almost done the install of the DAEOS harness. I have one wire to attach, the wire to the low beam on the passenger's side. I was just wondering what the purpose of this wire is? The system seems to be working. I put the key in, pressed start and the angel eyes come on. Tried parking and head lights and they all seem to be working correctly. Its dark out now, so getting a drop light out to finish the install. Thanks again!
 

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If the AE's are on with ignition on all times, you do not need the wire to the low beams. That was intended for different models and/or a different 12v feed for carlines without iDrive AE control. You obviously have an ignition on 12v connection and a proper lead to the AE's themselves. So congrats. You now have AE's as DRL's without the need for any coding.
 

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Thanks again! All finished up and everything working as planned.
 

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Hey can anyone help me here? Thanks
I tried to install the harness. I connect the "red wire with fuse" to the under hood fuse box "red/white" wire,


black wire to gound

long black wire to the driver side angel eyes (aftermarket) positive
DIDNT take photo just same as the passenger side
red wire to the passenger side angel eyes (aftermarket) positive.

I left the white wire not connected to anywhere.

It ends up the angel eyes only flicker for like 10 times then became off. Did I connect any wire wrong?
 

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The wiring seems correct. Do yo have a multimeter to check the voltage on the wire you used as a 12v. There are a number of 12v wires in that area that are red. One is 12v only with Ign on and that's the one you want. So trouble shooting steps would be:

- make sure the 12 v you tapped into is 12v all the time with Ign on. 0v with Ign off (#15 as its referred to vs #30)
- make sure your headlights are not in the parking light position (off is best for this test)
- remove one AE (yes you will get a cluster display error temporarily) but see if the remaining AE lights without flickering
- Then do the same with the other AE
- Make sure the inline connectors are solidly crimped. A loose connection will cause your symptom (these connectors are not the best)

report back after you take these steps.

- and make sure that ground connection is truly a ground. many bolts can be deceiving and look like chassis ground but in fact are not. A continuity test between your ground and - side of under hood battery connection is the only real test
 

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As an atlernative to purchasing an aftermarket harness, a guy on the 6 board created his own system by using a couple of 5 blade relays. I believe the entire solution was around $20. The installation procedure is about the same as putting in the pre-made harness since you have to tap into the power and then the AE power line.

This is courtesy of 30yrVeteran on the 6 board. I offer this as a simple alternative to solutions already posted.

The 5 blade relay operates as follows:

1. When the headlights are off but ignition is on it provides power to the AE's from the constant 12v source that you are tapping into, Driving Lights activated.
2. When the headlights are on it switches the power over to the BMW factory AE power (to avoid error code)
 

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Just a quick note: I would never recommend the usage of any of those "tap splices".

Those tap splices are no good with providing good connection and will result in electrical reliability issues later on.

If you try and open up one of those tap splices after you installed them - you will see that often times they dont actually splice the wires - they actually cut / sever some of the wires and only a few wires are left providing good connection. I know because I have experimented with them.

I am an electrical engineer by trade, I am an engineer for Boeing and I used to install car stereos in college so I have a little bit of experience with electrical connections. I bought some of those too and I ended up throwing them all away. They are no good.

I highly recommend using high quality butt splices or solder all connections, then use heat shrink to protect all connections.

Nothing worse than intermittent connection and it will drive you nuts trying to troubleshoot the root cause.
 
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