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Discussion Starter #1
Hello all, I have not posted in a while but would appreciate some advice on purchasing a 2000 M5. The car has 190,000 kms, black on black with aluminum trim, Canadian car and is currently on the third owner. Car had one small accident went the current owner hit a small animal on the road resulting in the front bumper and radiator being replaced. The previous owner(s) also replaced the following items:

-both vanos
-camshaft position sensor
-MAF's
-replaced both fuel pumps and replaced fuel filter
-brakes two years ago (all around)
-its had various cooling system hoses replaced and radiator.
-brake fluid flush and coolant flush
-various small suspension pieces (he says the suspension has been completely replaced but I haven't actually seen the receipts for these)
-tires have about 60-70% all around.
-car has had regular synthetic oil changes.

Car is on original clutch but apparently it was "inspected" in 2012 and did not need replacing. Is this possible that an M5 with 190000 kms could still have a healthy original clutch? The car does a Check engine light on, the cause of which I'm not sure about. Current owner said that this CEL, one daytime running light is out and it has a small blemish on the rear bumper. Other then that he says the car is perfect. The car also has an updated MK IV navigation unit which is not installed yet.

I would appreciate any advice on other items I should be concerned about and have inspected as part of my PPI or any other large maintenance items. Link to ad is below. Thank very much in advance.


2000 BMW M5 Sedan | cars & trucks | Calgary | Kijiji
 

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Looks like it sold already. That's a ton of miles, for that price though. Keep looking, there are tons of options in the board sale section. Take a flight and take a road trip home. At least you would know the car was from good hands
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I think the buyer removed the ad cause I've agreed to buy it, the mileage is in kms so that translates to about 112 000 miles, any other advice or input? Thanks
 

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If you plan to drive the car hard, you will probably see signs of the clutch needing to be replaced, so I would say keep that in mind when buying the car.

Price seems cheap but I would definitely get a PPI and go from there.
 

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Have you heard of the code reader? The CEL is potentially worrisome.
 

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No receipts, better get a PPI, pull the bottom plastic trays, to search for leakage, or make sure all the plastic underbody pieces are present (all fenders) . They break easily and oddly cost a lot to replace. I'd make sure the replaced vanos had the upgraded cover and orings. Get a code reader and pull the codes AFTER the test drive. Still think the price is closer to 10K cash, if it's not mint. Good luck
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks for input guys, I'm actually getting the car for $11500 (negotiated a bit). I will definitely have the mechanic pull the plastic underbody pieces to look for leaks.

The CEL concerns me, I was told that this could relate to carbon build up which could be very costly to fix? Any codes to look out for that relate to this? Any further ideas on this? The guy actually told me that the CEL came on when he replaced one rear tire that was mismatched? Any thoughts on this? Is this possible?
 

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so your asking for advice about a car you already agreed to buy? why do people make these threads asking for advice for something they are going to do anyway.
 

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Secondary Air Pump almost guaranteed... Any number of reprogramming options to make it go away, or you can tear the motor down and grind the carbon out.

What was the month of manufacture? If it's an early 2000, I'd be asking how many miles/qt. My 1999 build is currently running happy on a 127:1 mix of 10w60 and 91 octane! But if buying 10w60 at $12 a qt by the case isn't your thing, then you may want to check very carefully!
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I will check the build date when I pull the carproof/carfax this week, I have no problem buying 10W60.
 
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