[amessimon]

Hi

My yellow engine warning light came on the other day. This has happened three or four times before with other BMWs I have owned if the car got low on fuel or I used a different grade of fuel (95 instead of 99 for instance).

It usually clears a few miles down the road after refilling. In this instance the light came on after I had refilled the car as the fuel tank was low.

As usual the engine warning light went off after a couple of miles driving - I assumed all was fine - although a few miles later the light came back on and stayed on.

Its been that way for maybe 10 more miles driving.

I've decided not to use the car and invest in a PEAKE code reader to see what the problem might be before taking the car to a mechanic/stealer.

The fault codes I've taken from the car as as follows

Table 1b:

69: Engine Coolant temperature. Plausibility
35: Electronic Fan (relay)
Od: PreCat 02 sensor, Cyl # 1-3
90: Fuel Control, Cyl # 1 - 3
91: Fuel Control, Cyl # 4 - 6
95: Misfire w/ empty fuel tank

Can anyone throw any light on whether it might be a single issue causing all the codes? Or whether these parts all need individually replacing?

I also changed both MAF sensors around 5K miles ago if this makes any diff?

There seems to be a few related threads on the forum, but I cant find anything with enough in common to gauge an onion on my problem.

Also I'm based in Norwich (UK) anyone know any decent Indy mechanics in the area?

Cheers for any advice.

Simon

 

[lothar]

Hi

My yellow engine warning light came on the other day. This has happened three or four times before with other BMWs I have owned if the car got low on fuel or I used a different grade of fuel (95 instead of 99 for instance).

It usually clears a few miles down the road after refilling. In this instance the light came on after I had refilled the car as the fuel tank was low.

As usual the engine warning light went off after a couple of miles driving - I assumed all was fine - although a few miles later the light came back on and stayed on.

Its been that way for maybe 10 more miles driving.

I've decided not to use the car and invest in a PEAKE code reader to see what the problem might be before taking the car to a mechanic/stealer.

The fault codes I've taken from the car as as follows

Table 1b:

69: Engine Coolant temperature. Plausibility
35: Electronic Fan (relay)
Od: PreCat 02 sensor, Cyl # 1-3
90: Fuel Control, Cyl # 1 - 3
91: Fuel Control, Cyl # 4 - 6
95: Misfire w/ empty fuel tank

Can anyone throw any light on whether it might be a single issue causing all the codes? Or whether these parts all need individually replacing?

I also changed both MAF sensors around 5K miles ago if this makes any diff?

There seems to be a few related threads on the forum, but I cant find anything with enough in common to gauge an onion on my problem.

Also I'm based in Norwich (UK) anyone know any decent Indy mechanics in the area?

Cheers for any advice.

Simon

Have you tried clearing the codes with the Peake and seeing which ones come back?

 

[M5 London]

What MAFS did you put in ?

Generally 69 would imply your T Stat is slow and failing or failed. You need to do test number 7 on the secret menu and check the temps on that readout.

35 seems simple enough, and I think the wiring on the electric pusher fan between bumper and radiator goes bad on some examples. So check the relay and/or wriring here.

0d, 90, 91 and 95 could well all be related to a fuel pump for example, or your recent mafs (probably with the exception of 95) First thing I would do after making sure your MAFS are correct and good, is swap your precat o2 sensor over to bank 2 and see if you then get 0c.

I wouldn't be too concerned about your codes, and once resolved your car is goign to feel better for sure I reckon.

Good Luck.

PS Your biggest problem is the loss of Cylinder #s 7 and 8.......Please use table number 18, unless of course you have transplanted an S54 into your M5

EDIT : Only one guy touches my M5 really, apart from me, and that is Phil Crouch.

 

[Sailor24]

You need a new thermostat. With the number of times I have seen that one I am confident. It could be a temp sender if they tell you that you can be confident. The 35 I have not seen nor read about but on a straight read it maybe that a relay controlling the fan cooling the computer is dead. Not a biggy this time of the year. The OD could be a little more expensive because if you have one bad O2 sensor you should replace both Precat sensors.I think you will have read that on the board many times. The other codes are likely related to the O2 but could be unmetered air getting in(read vac leak). You have nothing serious going on. You should probably clear the codes and drive it again and see what comes back. Some of your codes could be old. You do want to get the relay, O2 and thermo done fairly soon (if the code comes back) but the car won't break from those codes.

By and by I think you are reading the wrong table for your codes. Table 18 only from what I have read for M5s. I don't use a peake so not sure but it seems the instructions were written in chinese by a russian then translated to latin by a child and finally printed in english on a small island in the south pacific. Very hard to understand.

Crud lost the race got to be faster on the reply button

 

[amessimon]

Hi

@Lothar: What's the idea of resetting the error codes out of interest? Could some of these fault codes still be listing even if a previous owner might have rectified them?

@M5 London: The MAFs I switched in were Bosch, they are the correct ones according to the local parts centre.

Thanks for the advice so far guys.

Cheers

Simon

 

[M5 London]

@M5 London: The MAFs I switched in were Bosch, they are the correct ones according to the local parts centre.

Cool ! Did you pay about £320 for the pair of them.

What mileage on your car ? Fuel pump danger zone starts at about 70K, just saying.

 

[lothar]

Hi

@Lothar: What's the idea of resetting the error codes out of interest? Could some of these fault codes still be listing even if a previous owner might have rectified them?


Simon

Yep. No way of knowing when they were stored or if they were taken care of.

 

[vantaam5]

Yep. No way of knowing when they were stored or if they were taken care of.

Only with simple tools like Peake,this information is not present.

More sophisticated diagnosis tools like DIS,autologic,INPA,.....show at which mileage the issues happened.

 

[amessimon]

Hi

@Sailor24: Nice tip on the thermostat, I will investigate that further - via this board. True on the PEAKE code reader, its says table 1b on the reader, but its seems like most of the codes are the same for table18 - as this is the table for the M5 like M5 London says - would not have known that.

@M5 London: Dont asked me what I paid. It was more than £320 though. (EuroCarParts - Norwich) I can't remember exactly. Seemed totally ridiculous at the time for two plastic tubes. If you can get cheaper parts let me know!

Car has done 90K, service record is pretty clean to be honest. Only stuff is minor brake and suspension. I did get some new tyres recently though, PS3s, quite a lot better than the Nexens that were on it when I bought it. Understandable at the price though.

@Lothar: I'll delete the current errors, run the car, and see what's still occurring. Cheers for that.

@vantaam5: DIS, autologic, INPA - I'll take a look at these, more info I can get the better.

Thanks all, awesome resource this site.

 

[Phump]

Hi, as pointed out 35 is your pusher fan ( sits in front of the rad)
I don't bevieve it has a relay as it works off pulses from the DME, i.e the more pulses it receives the faster the fan spins. It's used an Aux fan to help with the cooling when things get too hot, hot weather, AC on full wack etc.

One thing you can do to test the fan is turn on the AC to the max ( either by hitting the max button , or by turning it manually down to 16 C) Then go and look the fan for upto about 2 min, it should start to turn ( in a pulse motion at first then a constant motion) if your fan has had it, it either won't come on at all, or you will see it judder intermittently but not turn.
PS you can only test this if the out side temp is above 4 C (I think) otherwise the AC won't turn on because the outside temp is too cold.

Good luck

 

[amessimon]

@Phump

Thanks for that, I'm gonna reset the error codes later, drive the car a little and see what comes back. I wonder if some of these codes are things that might have been previously sorted but not reset.

Regards

Simon

 

[M5 London]

Simon,

Please don't take it to the stealer.

Let the knowledge on the board get your car sorted !

Cheers

 

[amessimon]

True. This code reader is a great start TBH. Without it you are going blind to a mechanic and they can spin you any old b****ks.

 

[Beemer Guy]

I'm gonna reset the error codes later, drive the car a little and see what comes back. I wonder if some of these codes are things that might have been previously sorted but not reset.

My new (to me) M5 hasn't thrown any codes (and I sacrifice virgins weekly to the CEL Gods that it won't) but it seems like a monthly occurrence on my fiancee's E46. Generally I just write them down and reset it to see if they come back. A stuck or just silly sensor can throw a bad code, especially on an older car. When it happens twice, then I start to worry about it.

But it's very possible that the last person who worked on the car forgot to reset the codes as well, so as noted, there's no telling how long they've been there.

Back to London's comment, did I read that right? Even though the reader says table 16, we should use 18 for the Ms? First I'd heard of that!

 

[amessimon]

@Beemer Guy

The reader is pretty confusing. What looks like 16 is actually 1b.

If you treat it as a 16 it redirects for to table 11 in the manual (Where none of your error codes will match up) :7:

e39 M5s should use table 18.

S54 engines (e46 M3) should use table 1b.

Thanks to M5 London for that earlier cos it was confusing me.

Someone correct/punch me if this is wrong.

Cheers.

 

[M Baker]

Advice on Peake codes before taking car to stealer.

Simon, definitely do not take it to a dealership if you feel you have to call them "stealer". Do the work yourself. As an auto dealership employee I would appreciate it if you would not use slang like "stealer" to describe dealerships in public forums.

I won't slander your profession even though there are crooks in every workplace: I've come across unethical and pathetic IT people, pilots, doctors, artists, teachers, policemen, financial managers, business owners, etc... but I won't slander them in public forums. I work for a dealership and we take great pride in how we care for our sales, service, and parts customers.

 

[amessimon]

Fair play. Apologies and no offence intended.

 

[M Baker]

Fair play. Apologies and no offence intended.

Thanks Simon, you are a gentleman.

 

[amessimon]

Apologies for resurrecting an old thread.

Does "Od: PreCat 02 sensor, Cyl # 1-3" refer to the driver or passenger side of the the cat (RHD UK car)?

I've got conflicting info on this, can anyone set me straight for sure?

Regards

Simon

 

[Vector57]

Apologies for resurrecting an old thread.

Does "Od: PreCat 02 sensor, Cyl # 1-3" refer to the driver or passenger side of the the cat (RHD UK car)?

I've got conflicting info on this, can anyone set me straight for sure?

Regards

Simon

Looks like you're using Table 1b again, rather than Table 18. Code 0d in Table 18 is PreCat 02 sensor, Cyl # 1-4.

Cylinder #1 is always in Bank 1, which is always on the right side of the car (as viewed while seated in car).
For your RHD, it's the driver-side.

Regards,
Alan