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Discussion Starter #1
Hi...

I have a quick question...

My installer will be installing my springs soon...he hasn't done a E60 M5 before, so I'm trying to help him research what is the best way to access the rear shock tower?

I have fold down rear seats if that matters at all...

Any tips would be greatly appreciated!!!

Thanks! :)
 

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Nope, you access it from the trunk. You take the trunk lining off from the sides to access the strut tower. You can feel the screws out with your fingers. I think there are like three-four nuts and bolts on each side and then the EDC connection on each tower. It is kind of a two man job. One person is unscrewing while the other holds the shock to prevent it from falling straight down. The rears are really easy to pop out! The fronts are what take a long time.
 

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The front is a beating because you have to take off the contol arms. and I think the splash guard. There is alot more you have to remove to get the front shocks to fall down.We started with with unplugging the EDC connection on top of the strut tower ( be very careful with this and don't get it dirty, for from what I hear, it is very very expensive to replace. One connector is attached to the shock and the other connector is stays with the car) Be careful with the one on the shock when you take it to the spring compressor.), loosen the nuts at the top(remove all but one), and leave one nut in but loosen it up (after you remove what you need to from the bottom, then remove the last nut and it should fall right out.The shock should start to fall while you are unscrewing the bolts from the top. (Back to step two) You have to then remove all the stuff on the bottom that is connected such as the control arms. I don't know all things that were remove for I am a novice when it comes to working on cars and was watching for the most part. I would suggest taking off the caliper and maybe the rotor. I had my friend who is a BMW tech help me and we tried to take a short cut which translated into two hours just to remove the front. The shocks with the rotor attached is heavy as hell! The rears took all of 30 minutes to take off and put back up. I also recommend you get an alignment afterwards so your tires wear evenly. I hope this helps and good luck with your install!
 

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The front is a beating because you have to take off the contol arms. and I think the splash guard. There is alot more you have to remove to get the front shocks to fall down.We started with with unplugging the EDC connection on top of the strut tower ( be very careful with this and don't get it dirty, for from what I hear, it is very very expensive to replace. One connector is attached to the shock and the other connector is stays with the car) Be careful with the one on the shock when you take it to the spring compressor.), loosen the nuts at the top(remove all but one), and leave one nut in but loosen it up (after you remove what you need to from the bottom, then remove the last nut and it should fall right out.The shock should start to fall while you are unscrewing the bolts from the top. (Back to step two) You have to then remove all the stuff on the bottom that is connected such as the control arms. I don't know all things that were remove for I am a novice when it comes to working on cars and was watching for the most part. I would suggest taking off the caliper and maybe the rotor. I had my friend who is a BMW tech help me and we tried to take a short cut which translated into two hours just to remove the front. The shocks with the rotor attached is heavy as hell! The rears took all of 30 minutes to take off and put back up. I also recommend you get an alignment afterwards so your tires wear evenly. I hope this helps and good luck with your install!
Q probably gave you the 'proper' way to do the fronts. I am not suggesting you do anything, but will tell you another way.

Disconnect the EDC and unscrew the 3 nuts on each side. On the passenger side is a servo arm that controls the headlights. Make sure to disconnect before proceeding so you don't snap it while swinging everything down. Take spring compressors and clamp down the springs while in the wheel wheel. It is easier to have the 'nut end' of the compressors down, but you will need to 'shorten' the bolts if you do it that way. Disconnect the link to the stabilizer bar.

Swing the top down and out of the wheel well while still attached. Do whatever you got to do and put it back. About an hour per side that way.
 

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Tom's method is definitely a better way to go. The BMW dealership did not have that particular spring compressing unit to compress the spring while the shock was still attached to the car. My friend had to take the shock completely out and walk it over to the other end of the shop where they had a compressing machine strapped to a table. That is why I suggested removing the rotors. In all, the less things you have to remove and take off the faster the process.:cheers:

Cheers Tom! :cheers:
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Q probably gave you the 'proper' way to do the fronts. I am not suggesting you do anything, but will tell you another way.

Disconnect the EDC and unscrew the 3 nuts on each side. On the passenger side is a servo arm that controls the headlights. Make sure to disconnect before proceeding so you don't snap it while swinging everything down. Take spring compressors and clamp down the springs while in the wheel wheel. It is easier to have the 'nut end' of the compressors down, but you will need to 'shorten' the bolts if you do it that way. Disconnect the link to the stabilizer bar.

Swing the top down and out of the wheel well while still attached. Do whatever you got to do and put it back. About an hour per side that way.
Thanks for the detailed instructions! All the help is certainly giving me a better picture of how this is all done.

If you guys have any other suggestions, please chime in!

Thanks!
Chris
 

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some tips ...

on the fronts .....
use 2 people, have 1 person TURN the brake caliper INTO the car and pull downwards. the 2nd person grabs the top of the shock and pulls it down below the fender lip and and out.

^ I've done the above 4x now but i still wouldn't recommend it to anyone simply because you are only milimeters from the fender when youpull the shock out. It just saves a bunch of time!

The rears are easy when you remove the inside rear upper control arm. (18mm nut and bolt) and move it out of the way

I have all the pics on my camera just need to upload.

Finally be very careful with the EDC wire for the rear shocks. it looks and probably is fragile!
 

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Discussion Starter #12
some tips ...

on the fronts .....
use 2 people, have 1 person TURN the brake caliper INTO the car and pull downwards. the 2nd person grabs the top of the shock and pulls it down below the fender lip and and out.

^ I've done the above 4x now but i still wouldn't recommend it to anyone simply because you are only milimeters from the fender when youpull the shock out. It just saves a bunch of time!

The rears are easy when you remove the inside rear upper control arm. (18mm nut and bolt) and move it out of the way

I have all the pics on my camera just need to upload.

Finally be very careful with the EDC wire for the rear shocks. it looks and probably is fragile!
Hi Kittan,

I would really appreciate any pics! I'll send you a PM!

Thanks!
 

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Sorry about the OT, OP. Actually, I would be worried to have a "first timer" install my springs. I would really hunt for a shop that have had some experience. As recommended by Baller, I went with a shop that took only 1.5 hours. Nothing broken, no EDC error codes. They charged me a flat rate for the install, so I just wanted to get out of there as quickly as possible... and 1.5 hrs is pretty quick. Some shops ask for 8+ hours, which, IMO, is much too much.

Another note, do make sure that they loosen and retighten the bushing locknuts when the car is sitting on its suspension (as opposed to wheels dangling from the air). I hear that that is important so that the bushings are not under "tension" as the car is just sitting there. Get an alignment about 3 weeks later after the springs settle a few cm's or so.

ps (baller) - Cross-Gender? I was thinking Cross-Species... No wonder your program doesn't work. Sheep do not reciprocate well to my deep eye contact. :eek:oohhh:
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I wish I could find someone that has previous experience, but that's almost impossible to find here in Hawaii. Maybe the dealer, but they won't touch aftermarket parts.

But your tips are really helpful!

Does anyone have the alignment specs? Or should I just bring it to the dealer and do a factory alignment.
 

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Ask for a discount and get your car aligned at the dealership. That is what I did, and the price was something like $140.00. Otherwise, a reputable alignment shop should have the specs already.
 

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onesixeight:

Your guys did it in 1.5 hours. That is an amazingt time. How many people were working on it? I know with two technicians, an install can range from 4.5-6.5 hours depending on what you run into. That is with taking the strut completely out of the car to swap springs as they method posted above can do serious damage if that little spring compressor tool ever lets go inside that fender area.
 
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