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01 Carbon/Silverstone Exhaust: Jedders-HJS high flow cats-resonator delete-Xpipe-Eisenman cans
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What was the result here? Sounds to me like the cable had some broken strands. Happens on bicycle derailleur cables all the time and you can never get them to adjust properly. Must be replaced.
 

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Im thinking I need to do that (new cables) as it's still useless and been like that for years.
No matter how hard the hand brake is engaged (don't bother any longer)it's about a brake force 2 out of 10 (10 being rock solid)..

Apples
 

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01 Carbon/Silverstone Exhaust: Jedders-HJS high flow cats-resonator delete-Xpipe-Eisenman cans
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Seriously?
I'm sure if this was true there would be a thread but it seems you could just tie the new cable to the old one end to end and pull it through....
 

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Routing the cables isn't difficult, you need to remove the exhaust to remove the heat shield that gives you access to the cables. Without that access the cable sheath won't move without causing damage to the cables.
 

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I've had a nightmare adjusting my handbrake. The first attempt resulted in a broken lever which was a PITA to replaced. Hopefully I will be more successful second time around, I don't want to be replacing the cables.
 

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I replaced the parking brake pads this past weekend. I was replacing my brakes under warranty from FCP, and figured I haven't had an ebrake since I purchased this car so i'll just go ahead and do it myself. I purchased a hardware refresh kit from FCP euro along with my warranty replacement order for the pads/rotors.

This should be a relatively straight forward job...if you have the correct tool(s). Pads and rotors are just like any other car. Easy and simple. If you do not have the special tool for expanding the spring in the braking brake assembly, it is just not possible. I struggled for hours before I got on the old two-wheel horse and took a ride to the auto parts store for the proper tool. After that, I finished the passenger side in 1/4 of the time.

I've run into one issue, the driver side is cleary rubbing or making some sort of contact. I did loads of testing/adjusting when I completed the job, and I'm not sure if the pads need to break in, but there is clearly an annoying screeching noise coming from the rear driver-side assembly. I know it's not the rotors and pads, I re-adjusted the driver side this morning along with the cables in the handle and while it's better, it's still very noticeable and makes me hate driving the car.
 

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You are going to have to pull it a part again and look for signs of rubbing. Everything is in nice and flat then you adjust it but one of the retainers is not set perfect and it pops out. That is the most common thing I have seen and done. Might have to do with doing the last steps blind and you really can't see how your adjustment tool is going in or what it it really touching.
 

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Can you tell me, if I'm sitting in the driver seat looking forward? The two cable adjusters in the hand brake. Does the right one adjust the driver side, and the left nut (closest to me) adjusts the passenger side? When I put everything back together and went to adjust the cables in the handle, the left nut (closest to me) was way taller than the right.

This morning I adjusted the star nut (adjuster?), again and noticed it was completed closed off and I couldn't see any threads. I backed it off until I saw about 4-5 threads and then readjusted the hand brake cables after I tested resistance. It's better, less screechy then 2 days ago, but the more I drive the noise seems to be going away.

I'm breaking in the new rotors and pads and will go for another ride in about 30min to see where it's at.

P.S.

Minus all this non-sense, the FCP euro lifetime warranty replacement is legit and boy am I happy! One rotor was defective and became warped and they just said replace it all!
 

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Does not sound like you adjusted them up properly through the lug hole at the wheel. I am not sure I understand your cable question but they should not be crossed drivers side does drivers side passenger passenger.
 
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