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ABS/DSC issues and possible theory.

7.6K views 21 replies 8 participants last post by  gzig5  
#1 ·
Gonna see if I can make this short n sweet...

A few months back I had a caliper sticking issue on the front left and a little bit on the front right. So I replaced both lines, caliper pistons, and of course the seal/boots. Bled with ATE type 200 and all seemed to be fixed. Prior to that I had a DSC triangle light that was persistent and narrowed it down to the DSC pump in the driver fender well. Well I wasn't really concerned about the DSC so I just left it alone... Fast forward to today and I had a severe caliper sticking issue from the left front that had my steering wheel vibrating and brakes smoking when I finally arrived to work.

My question is, can the DSC failure be related? Is the DSC freaking out and telling the car to apply brake pressure inadvertently ? On a whim I unplugged the ABS connector in the engine bay ( the small one on top of the module) and didn't have any issues coming home. Thoughts?
 
#2 ·
Are you seeing the DSC kicking on when you are breaking and experiencing this issue?

Also, it is very common to have the module fail (I had mine repaired a couple years ago) so it could be time to send it out and see if that fixes your issue.


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#8 ·
Not sure what to tell you the first time I tried to help someone I got them to unplug the DSC/ABS module. So there was no change which convinced me that it was a brake issue so I took him through the steps and none worked. Basically I wasting his time because I was wrong. He sent out his module for repair and that was in fact the issue. I have no idea how it could still happen with the module unplugged. The guy who rebuilt it said(second hand so don't quote me) that they are like mechanical switches and if the switch is on when you unplug it stays on.

Sorry really have no idea I have never seen one of these in person and it all sort of baffles me. Even though this did not work I would unplug the module it is the same as pulling fuses.
 
#10 ·
After ruling out the brakes, it is almost certain your issue is in the ABS/DSC. The electrical part of the module controls a bunch of solenoids in the back half of the module which open/close valves that control brake pressure to each wheel. So an electrical problem in the module can result in a valve being stuck open and sending too much pressure to a wheel.
You can pull off the electrical part of the module, cover the mechanical part to keep it dry, and send your module off for refurb. OK to drive with the module out, you just won't have ABS/DSC function of course and you will get trifecta lights and an SES light.
 
#11 ·
Think you might have mentioned the key to diag. Since we do know that removing the whole module will leave the brakes in working order where as unplugging does not seem too.
I think if I was suspicious of the module, the first step would be to remove it and drive the car. That is a good bit easier than even getting the car up and the wheel off to start checking the brakes functionality. Of coarse if there is nothing wrong with the caliper etc checking functionality is even more tedious.
 
#12 ·
As of now I only have the unit unplugged, assuming from sailors post the mechanical switch seems to be in the off or open position as I haven't had an issue since. But I think for good measure I'll go ahead and just remove the module all together this weekend. It's strange that I never got any sort of ABS or BRAKE light when this problem came up, just the DSC light which at the time I thought affected traction control only. I never realized it tied into the ABS. The more you know.....


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#15 ·
I used BBA Repair. Check eBay for their service. You can pick it up for ~$100 or so


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#16 · (Edited)
From Bluebee's comprehensive thread (2009):

PRICE REBUILDING OF YOUR ABS MODULE:
- Module Masters ($105) http://www.modulemaster.com/en/abs/ate_bmw_asc.php
- BBA Remanufacturing (8 days, $225) Home (GB) | BBA Reman
- Auto & Truck Electronics ($105) EBAY seller's ID ATE1234, lifetime warranty, free shipping, quick turnaround
- Note: A rebuild of your ABS unit won't require VIN coding, activation, or steering angle calibration
 
#18 ·
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