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Discussion Starter #1
I have been running the Active Autowerkes Cold Air Intake since last summer. I have had the front bumper off several times for other installs (electric engine fan, remote air temp sensor, etc...). Each time I had access to the air tubes, I would try to seal up air leaks to create a 'ram' air path. Well just the other day I noticed the plastic air tubes were not aligned and were actualy restricting the flow. Without removing the bumper or the front wheels, I was able to remove the black plastic air tubes and the aluminum air box that the flex air hose connected to. I found that I could twist the air hose and connect the hose right to the aluminum fitting in the plastic mesh. After tightening the clamp, I found that if I just folded over the portion of the aluminum air box that extended in front of the box opening, I could mount it up and still have mounting points for the air pan. Now I have a direct air path to the air filter boxes. I an not concerned about rain getting in as there are drain holes in the filter box and it would be dificult for water to travel that far up. I will check this the next time I am out on a rainy day. As to the butt-o-meter I have to say I really do feel a big difference. I think this complements the other mods. :M5thumbs:
 

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hmm.... quite a good idea, except that you've taken away cooling away from the brakes.. unless you feeding another pipe towards the inner grill area..
 

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Discussion Starter #4
My inner plastic fender well does not have the holes for the air and I did not want to cut them as I feel the air would only hit the back of the dust shield. Unless you have ducted dust shields that put the air where it is needed. These could be piped to an area around the fog lights. I also felt that the AA air path did not put enough air to the intake filters. With so many gaps and leakage areas, the air flow would always take the path of least resistance, i.e. right out the brake duct. Now the air cloumn to the air filter box is always packed at speed. I don't know if I will dyno this as I would have to find a way to simulate air flow at speed (a leaf blower?). Right now all I know is that it feel great. :cheers:
 

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mr_bock said:
My inner plastic fender well does not have the holes for the air and I did not want to cut them as I feel the air would only hit the back of the dust shield. Unless you have ducted dust shields that put the air where it is needed. These could be piped to an area around the fog lights. I also felt that the AA air path did not put enough air to the intake filters. With so many gaps and leakage areas, the air flow would always take the path of least resistance, i.e. right out the brake duct. Now the air cloumn to the air filter box is always packed at speed. I don't know if I will dyno this as I would have to find a way to simulate air flow at speed (a leaf blower?). Right now all I know is that it feel great. :cheers:
I have the same setup, but I do have the ducting to the brakes as well. I never saw the issues you mentioned with regards to air leaks. Of course I have not removed the front bumper lately. Did these leaks occur over time?

I have had the AA CAI for the better part of two years and there is no way to realize the posative impact from this modification on a dyno no matter how much air you try and force into those intakes. I suppose it is in theory, possible to simulate the ram air effect, but no one has been able to.

Mark

BTW - I like the AA CAI. I would do it again.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
The air leaks are the gaps and lose fitting between the plastic tubes (AA CAI) that just sit behind the aluminum inlets in the grill. I tried using Heating/Air conditioning aluminum tape to close off and seal the openings. This is hard to do because of the way these fit together along with the bumper. Anyway, running the hose direct solves all of this. I do have to remember to release the hoses when the bumper has to come off. Any excess air pressure being forced into the inlets from forward motion of the car has only a couple of small vent holes in the air box. :thumbsup:
 

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mr_bock said:
The air leaks are the gaps and lose fitting between the plastic tubes (AA CAI) that just sit behind the aluminum inlets in the grill. I tried using Heating/Air conditioning aluminum tape to close off and seal the openings. This is hard to do because of the way these fit together along with the bumper. Anyway, running the hose direct solves all of this. I do have to remember to release the hoses when the bumper has to come off. Any excess air pressure being forced into the inlets from forward motion of the car has only a couple of small vent holes in the air box. :thumbsup:
I am still confused. Did the openings in the hoses occur because of a faulty install or are the hoses too short to fit properly against the fittings?

Can you see these problems by looking in the wheel wells with the wheels turned all the way to one side? If not, how did you discover the problem?

Thanks,

Mark
 

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I did something similar on my car last week. I installed the sink drains in my front lower grille, then I connected the the sink drains to some hose.... the other end of the hose goes to the airboxes. Now, what is different on my kit? what I noticed is that those pipes (the snorkel tubes from airbox to the front bumper) had good fitting, so I decided to cut them and then connect my hose to it....
all I can say its that my car feels way better, car feels more powerful and not restricted.
then last week I also installed GruppeM intakes, and boy the car feels powerfull, I will dyno the car soon just to see if there are any gains.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
MAH said:
I am still confused. Did the openings in the hoses occur because of a faulty install or are the hoses too short to fit properly against the fittings?

Can you see these problems by looking in the wheel wells with the wheels turned all the way to one side? If not, how did you discover the problem?

Thanks,

Mark
The gaps I am talking about have nothing to do with the hoses (no damaged parts). It is because there is no air tight seal between the black molded plastic tube that sits just behind the grill duct. Then there is no seal where the same plastic tube sits inside the aluminum air box. If the brake duct opening is not sealed there, the air will just rush through and out and not exactly into the hose up to the air filter box. I tried to tape all of these different sections together but it is too much hanging out while trying to get the bumper back on. Ram air intake is just that, ram it in, no leaks except that that goes into the engine when the valves open. The faster you go, the more air pressure at the valve ready to go in.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Re: Mr. Bock...........

FAST 5 said:
We would all be greatful if you were to post PICS of what exactly you are describing, since this will answer many questions that can't be described in words. PICS PLEASE! :cheers:

Ok, but this will take a few or more days as I will have to get the car up on the lift and remove the front under pan and wheel well liner. Also this will give me more time to asess the improvement.
 

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Re: Mr. Bock...........

mr_bock said:
Ok, but this will take a few or more days as I will have to get the car up on the lift and remove the front under pan and wheel well liner. Also this will give me more time to asess the improvement.
Mr Bock, I understand what your trying to accomplish, I too did place a fair amount of duct tape around each of the black plastic tubing and the inside of the lower grille area, just behind/above each "sink plug"... it is quite difficult to ensure a good fit, which is air tight, but I think that placing the tubing as far forward behind the grille is best, as there is a fair amount of overlap when it feeds into the metal ducting... :M5thumbs:

Tin
 

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Re: Mr. Bock...........

mr_bock said:
Ok, but this will take a few or more days as I will have to get the car up on the lift and remove the front under pan and wheel well liner. Also this will give me more time to asess the improvement.
Wow........ Thank you very much for accepting this request. Looking forward to seeing the detailed pictures of what you've been speaking about.
Thnks again! :cheers:
 

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Re: Mr. Bock...........

mr_bock said:
Ok, but this will take a few or more days as I will have to get the car up on the lift and remove the front under pan and wheel well liner. Also this will give me more time to asess the improvement.
I do look forward to your pics. I too will want to undertake this "tapeing" if there are gaps present.

The good and the bad are that I noticed an improvement when I added the CAI originally. The good would be that there is more performance to be had for nothing more than some good tape! :1:

Thanks again for this observation,

Mark
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Re: Mr. Bock...........

Here we go M5'ers... the pictures are in! First is a shot of the basement garage. It had room for four cars till I had a car lift installed. Above this garage is another garage 'The Show Room' that can also hold four cars. The next shot is my car up on the lift. I am one lucky SOB.


The plastic tubes are not used at all. Mine were getting mashed into the aluminum air boxes.

I removed the aluminum air box so I could fold the end over. This gives clearence for the flex hose and retain the mounts for the belly pan.

This pix is where I originaly tried to seal the opening for brake cooling. I felt that air would just flow out and not pressurize up to the engine intakes.

Here I was able to get the flex hose and clamp over the aluminum funnel in the grill as in direct connect. All of the air is directed to the air filter boxes. No leakes except the small vents in the filter boxes which is fine.

For added effect, I masked the grill and top edge with tape and painted the funnel interior satin black. You can see the flex hose right at the funnel exit. The flex hose fitted perfectely in length and size to the funnel.


For some added air cooling, I installed a heat shield under the air plenum. I used 'Cool It's made by Thermo-Tec Automotive, Inc. (www.thermotec.com). I bought several sheets from J.C. Whitney. The shield is adhesive backed aluminized heat barrier that is claimed to reflect 2000 degree F radiant heat.

Here is the car with the plenum off. Easy to do, just dont drop anything down the holes!

Here I am applying the shield material. It 'molds' very well to the shape. Be sure to clean the plenum surface very well first.

All of this feels like more power to me. Comments are welcomed.
 

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Great Post Mr.Bock. I love the garage. Imagine, buying something from jc whittney again.... i want to do the heat shielding too.
Mike
 

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One more question, are the gaskets for the plenum reuseable? They look pretty sturdy in the pics.
thanks,
Mike
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Mike, The gaskets are o-rings. I just wiped them cleaned with alcohol with out removing them. Same with the plenum top. The one problem I found is that the shield material is not sticking at the top edge around the front and front sides of the plenum. The shield sags away from the aluminum plenum. This may be a cleaning problem before applying the shield, or more likely greater heat around the front of the engine that the adhesive can't handle. I looked for high temp spray on adhesive with no luck. I think the heat shield is a good thing. Keep me informed if you do this....

George B.
 
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