BMW M5 Forum and M6 Forums banner

1 - 5 of 5 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
991 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
They say the only stupid question is the one not asked.:cheers:
That being said:

1) When replacing the rear main seal (sometimes called the flywheel seal), must I drain the engine oil before removing and replacing the new seal? Does this seal hold the engine oil in, or is it something you can R&R with oil in the motor?

2) I have a LUK pressure plate and flywheel kit. It came with a plastic alignment tool. However, it appears that since there is a locking plate installed on the pressure plate, I won't be able to use the plastic tool.



Do I:
- separate the ring from the tube (as pictured)
- install the alignment tube without the ring installed
- install dual mass clutch disk
- install pressure plate and torque down
- remove locking/shipping plate
- then insert ring and remove the alignment tube?

Sorry. I havn't done this before and I don't have anything apart yet so I'm trying to work through this in my head before turning wrenches.

Thanks!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,841 Posts
1 - Drain the oil first. It is highly unlikely in any engine that the oil level at rest in the sump isn't at least partway up the cross-section of the rear flange on the crankshaft. It may be possible to do it without losing much or any but unless you just changed it yesterday is it really that much more trouble to drain and replace during this job?

2- You'll have to remove the locking plate from the pressure plate first. Usually those plastic arbors are all one piece but here's how they work. You'll insert it into the hole in the middle of the clutch plate aligning the splines and push it through as much as you can. Then you line it up with the pilot hole in the center of the crank flange that the flywheel is mounted to and push it into the pilot bearing with the clutch disc on it. Make sure you have put the disc on with the proper side facing the transmission. Then you'll place the pressure plate over it lining the bolt holes and dowel pins up with the flywheel and torque down the bolts. The arbor keeps the clutch disc centered between the pressure plate and flywheel while you do this. Then you can just pull the plastic arbor out and mate the transmission back up.

I think you may be right about using the arbor without the ring first then removing the locking plate after the pressure plate is installed. Can you post some pictures of the clutch disc and pressure plate?
 
  • Like
Reactions: Jetpilot718

·
Registered
Joined
·
848 Posts
I just did this an hour ago, vantaam5 is right
I didn't have to drain the oil but the car had to be level.
Also my clutch alignment tool looks a little different and what i did was cut about 2" off the end. You have to make sure the tool fits behind the locking plate on the new pressure plate.
 
1 - 5 of 5 Posts
Top