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Well I finally gathered up all the parts, and the warm weather to do the repair. I know there is already several posts about rebuilding the rear diff in our cars, but I wanted to start from scratch with an organized initial post containing all of the info, so future DIY'ers won't have to read though miles of posts to get all the answers.
This work was completed on jack stands in front of my garage. I will list tools and equipment needed as best as possible, and also a list of parts I used/replaced.
Symptoms: Leaking pinion seal along with whine noise from the rear at certain speeds and loads.
Time: Friday night, all day Saturday, all day Sunday {all day meaning morning until dinner time, taking breaks along the way... its not like I'm getting paid to do the work
}
Hands: 4 hands needed at some points in the removal/installation process, so it's good to have a buddy there or on call - can be done soley but it will take you longer.
Tools/equipment: 4-6 jack stands, 1 or 2 floor jacks, metric sockets and wrenches [mostly 13, 16, 18mm], inverted torx socket set [E8 or E10 I think], air tools [if available] make some of the work go faster, pry bars, hammers, the usual. 10 ton (or so) press for the bearings
Parts List:
TIMKEN BEARINGS: HM89410 HM89448 HM803110 HM803149 JLM104948 (x2) JLM104910 (x2) I sourced these from eBay, total cost $120
Crush sleeve: 33-12-1-204-657 $9.92 from dealer
Output shaft seals: 33-10-7-510-289 (x2) size - 76x50x10mm $11.00 ea from AutohausAZ (Victor Reinz)
Pinion seal: 33-12-1-213-949 size - 50x80x9mm $41.50 from AutoHausAZ (OEM)
Cover gasket: 33-11-1-211-679 $1.49 AutoHausAZ (Victor Reinz)
Royal Purple 75w-140 diff fluid, suitable for LSD $36.00 for 2 quarts, local
Operation:
Get the car jacked up high enough to safely work under it. Remove exhaust, I have a Tubi Catback, but couldn't get the pipes to separate for the life of me, so I dropped the whole system. It is VERY HEAVY and is a PITA to do. Recommend 2 people job. It is a time consuming scope of work.
Next, unbolt the halfshafts from the unit, using the E-torxs.
Unbolt the driveshaft from the unit, leave setting in place for now.
Now, support the diff and remove the 3 bolts securing it to the car. Start with the front mount and manipulate the jack to tilt the diff to allow more space to get at the top bolts, if needed.
TIPS FOR REMOVING TOP BOLTS
-grind 2 flat spots onto a cheap 18mm short well socket, or heat and bend an 18mm box end wrench
-Grip the socket with vise-grips or use the wrench to hold the passenger side nut. You will know what I'm talking about when your under there.
Slowly begin to lower the unit from the car. You will have to use your pry bars here, and an extra person is helpful once again. - both for steadying the unit and for prying. dislodge each halfshaft one at a time, then continue to lower enough to pull the unit backword and/or angle it out of the driveshaft bolts. Its hard to describe, but can be done.
Bring unit to a work bench.
FROM HERE ON YOU NEED PRIOR DIFFERENTIAL REBUILD EXPERIENCE, OR A FRIEND WHO HAS.
For everyone else I recommend bringing all of your parts and the unit to a qualified shop that can do the rebuild for you. Make the arrangements before hand and confirm they can do the right job for you.
Remove half shaft "stubs". Use a small pry bar to pop them out.
Remove rear cover
Unbolt the 2 side covers that hold the carrier in place. Tap these out.
Now you can easily knock the seals out from the back side with a punch and hammer. TIP - use a scribe to mark the inside edge of where the seal should sit, to reference when installing the new seals.
R&R the bearing cups in the covers.
Install the new seals.
NOTE: Clean everything nicely during the whole process, you should know what to do to have a good project.
Scrape old cover gasket, ready for new gasket and gray silicone sealant
Remove old bearings from the carrier. - use whatever method your used to. I find it too hard to fit a bearing splitter, so I use a cut-off wheel and cut the bearing off. - it is a flat-rate mechanic technique, only do it if your confident you wont grind into the parts. The tip here is cut it down as far as you can and then use an air hammer to crack it open. This relieves enough pressure to slide it off.
Take diff housing with pinion to your press, set up and press pinion from the housing.
R&R the bearing cones from the diff housing.
Again, choose your method and remove the inner pinion bearing. If you use my method, DO NOT CUT/GOUGE INTO THE PINION GEAR! This creates a stress point and could cause the related tooth to break off in that area. If you nick the "shaft" part, it is OK, but be careful to not nick anything.
Install all the new bearings, don't forget to slide the new crush sleeve on before pressing the pinion back into the housing.
Reinstall carrier, side covers, half shaft "stubs", rear cover, and input shaft seal and "stub". Torque nut to set preload. Be careful here. The crush sleeve "crushes" really hard, but it is easy to tighten too far. Go slow and use your previous experience. I have seen 15 in lbs thrown around as the target torque spec.
INSTALL TO CAR:
NOTE: This is a good time to replace the front mount bushing. Mine was completely shot and made a clunk every time I shifted or put load on/off the diff. It can be replaced using a balljoint press with the proper adapters.
I prefilled the diff with a quart of fluid before putting it under the car, makes for a little less hassle later. After the job was done I realized I probably could have filled it up as long as I had the right angle on the diff. (Proper fill level)
Use a helper to get the diff back "onto" the driveshaft and halfshafts. Jack into place and reinstall the 3 mount bolts. I believe the TIS says to mount everything loose, tighten the top bolts first, then the front mount.
Finish installation reverse of removal. The exhaust will again be a time consuming PITA!!!
Check fluid level, double check everything looks tight, properly aligned, etc. Make sure you don't have any extra bolts :nono:
Job done! Now clean up, sit back and crack open a 12 pack with you helper.
Next post will have some pics.
This work was completed on jack stands in front of my garage. I will list tools and equipment needed as best as possible, and also a list of parts I used/replaced.
Symptoms: Leaking pinion seal along with whine noise from the rear at certain speeds and loads.
Time: Friday night, all day Saturday, all day Sunday {all day meaning morning until dinner time, taking breaks along the way... its not like I'm getting paid to do the work
}Hands: 4 hands needed at some points in the removal/installation process, so it's good to have a buddy there or on call - can be done soley but it will take you longer.
Tools/equipment: 4-6 jack stands, 1 or 2 floor jacks, metric sockets and wrenches [mostly 13, 16, 18mm], inverted torx socket set [E8 or E10 I think], air tools [if available] make some of the work go faster, pry bars, hammers, the usual
. 10 ton (or so) press for the bearingsParts List:
TIMKEN BEARINGS: HM89410 HM89448 HM803110 HM803149 JLM104948 (x2) JLM104910 (x2) I sourced these from eBay, total cost $120
Crush sleeve: 33-12-1-204-657 $9.92 from dealer
Output shaft seals: 33-10-7-510-289 (x2) size - 76x50x10mm $11.00 ea from AutohausAZ (Victor Reinz)
Pinion seal: 33-12-1-213-949 size - 50x80x9mm $41.50 from AutoHausAZ (OEM)
Cover gasket: 33-11-1-211-679 $1.49 AutoHausAZ (Victor Reinz)
Royal Purple 75w-140 diff fluid, suitable for LSD $36.00 for 2 quarts, local
Operation:
Get the car jacked up high enough to safely work under it. Remove exhaust, I have a Tubi Catback, but couldn't get the pipes to separate for the life of me, so I dropped the whole system. It is VERY HEAVY and is a PITA to do. Recommend 2 people job. It is a time consuming scope of work.
Next, unbolt the halfshafts from the unit, using the E-torxs.
Unbolt the driveshaft from the unit, leave setting in place for now.
Now, support the diff and remove the 3 bolts securing it to the car. Start with the front mount and manipulate the jack to tilt the diff to allow more space to get at the top bolts, if needed.
TIPS FOR REMOVING TOP BOLTS
-grind 2 flat spots onto a cheap 18mm short well socket, or heat and bend an 18mm box end wrench
-Grip the socket with vise-grips or use the wrench to hold the passenger side nut. You will know what I'm talking about when your under there.
Slowly begin to lower the unit from the car. You will have to use your pry bars here, and an extra person is helpful once again. - both for steadying the unit and for prying. dislodge each halfshaft one at a time, then continue to lower enough to pull the unit backword and/or angle it out of the driveshaft bolts. Its hard to describe, but can be done.
Bring unit to a work bench.
FROM HERE ON YOU NEED PRIOR DIFFERENTIAL REBUILD EXPERIENCE, OR A FRIEND WHO HAS.
For everyone else I recommend bringing all of your parts and the unit to a qualified shop that can do the rebuild for you. Make the arrangements before hand and confirm they can do the right job for you.
Remove half shaft "stubs". Use a small pry bar to pop them out.
Remove rear cover
Unbolt the 2 side covers that hold the carrier in place. Tap these out.
Now you can easily knock the seals out from the back side with a punch and hammer. TIP - use a scribe to mark the inside edge of where the seal should sit, to reference when installing the new seals.
R&R the bearing cups in the covers.
Install the new seals.
NOTE: Clean everything nicely during the whole process, you should know what to do to have a good project.
Scrape old cover gasket, ready for new gasket and gray silicone sealant
Remove old bearings from the carrier. - use whatever method your used to. I find it too hard to fit a bearing splitter, so I use a cut-off wheel and cut the bearing off. - it is a flat-rate mechanic technique, only do it if your confident you wont grind into the parts. The tip here is cut it down as far as you can and then use an air hammer to crack it open. This relieves enough pressure to slide it off.
Take diff housing with pinion to your press, set up and press pinion from the housing.
R&R the bearing cones from the diff housing.
Again, choose your method and remove the inner pinion bearing. If you use my method, DO NOT CUT/GOUGE INTO THE PINION GEAR! This creates a stress point and could cause the related tooth to break off in that area. If you nick the "shaft" part, it is OK, but be careful to not nick anything.
Install all the new bearings, don't forget to slide the new crush sleeve on before pressing the pinion back into the housing.
Reinstall carrier, side covers, half shaft "stubs", rear cover, and input shaft seal and "stub". Torque nut to set preload. Be careful here. The crush sleeve "crushes" really hard, but it is easy to tighten too far. Go slow and use your previous experience. I have seen 15 in lbs thrown around as the target torque spec.
INSTALL TO CAR:
NOTE: This is a good time to replace the front mount bushing. Mine was completely shot and made a clunk every time I shifted or put load on/off the diff. It can be replaced using a balljoint press with the proper adapters.
I prefilled the diff with a quart of fluid before putting it under the car, makes for a little less hassle later. After the job was done I realized I probably could have filled it up as long as I had the right angle on the diff. (Proper fill level)
Use a helper to get the diff back "onto" the driveshaft and halfshafts. Jack into place and reinstall the 3 mount bolts. I believe the TIS says to mount everything loose, tighten the top bolts first, then the front mount.
Finish installation reverse of removal. The exhaust will again be a time consuming PITA!!!
Check fluid level, double check everything looks tight, properly aligned, etc. Make sure you don't have any extra bolts :nono:
Job done! Now clean up, sit back and crack open a 12 pack with you helper.
Next post will have some pics.
