Now that is a nice DIY! Nice work man!
I am really impressed. Welding aluminum in such a dirty environment and with such a big amount of "heat-sink"metal behind it is REALLY challenging. That could easily be a new oil pan. I noticed you did not show a picture of your weld before you applied the putty. Was it a good weld? You used a TIG setup right? I am asking because I would not have attempted this knowing the challenge of Al welding.Hello,
I have finally had some time to work on the beast. As per my intro post awhile back I bought a 12/05 with 80K miles got lucky that I had the new Vanos pump gears and oil pump chain tensioner set up. I have taken a week off of work to spend with the beast.
Here is the list of all the work performed:
-Throttle bodies cleaned
-MAF sensor cleaned
-WPC rod bearings
-ARP rod bearing bolts
-Vanos high pressure line
-Oil pump guides and tensioners
-Oil pan secondary drain plug
-Powersteering pump pulley
-Removed radiator to clean all the junk in between condenser and radiator
-and more fun.........:biggrin:
I did send an oil sample to blackstone and the lead was 42ppm which was high compare to average of 12ppm. That kind of freaked me out so I let the car sit until I had time to do all this work.
Here are the pics of the bearings @ 42ppm.
This is from back to middle of engine ( right to left of pic)
This is from middle to front of engine (right to left of pic)
I was really happy to see that the bearings looked like that at 42ppm. As you can see only 2 bearings are showing the copper color.
To my surprise I measured the Vanos pump backlash before I loosen the pump and the lash was out of spec at 0.00375 in = 0.094mm. I set the backlash at 0.0026 in = 0.066mm and that definitely made the pump quieter. I can post a pic of the setup I used to measure the backlash if you are interested. The vanos high pressure line was giving me a hard time and from reading Jcolley experience that he had to bend the line slightly I took a shortcut by cutting the line and to my surprise the new line was a little different and slide right in!!!!
Here is a pic of the of the difference between the lines:
While I had the the pan off I decided to install the secondary oil drain plug. I was amazed how much oil stays behind. I machined a little sleeve and welded in and for insurance I coated the area with aluminum putty and gave it a little spray paint job to make it look like new. Here is the progress in different stages:
Here it is welded in and smoothed the welds
Here is the aluminun putty for extra insurance and smooth it out
Here it is all nice and painted
Here is a pic on the car
After so much oil recommendations I choose to used M1 0W40 and I will be doing a 750 miles break-in for the bearings and SMG here I come next!!!
Well I wanted to share my adventure with you all and because of this forum was able to educate myself of how to hopefully have a very reliable S85 V10 that was always my dream car.:biggrinbounce:
I did use a Tig to melt the bottom collard on the bung and then used a spoolgun to add more aluminum by doing 3 passes one in the bottom, middle and top. If you look at pic 2 that pic is welded without the putty on it. You are right about having to clean aluminum. I spent about 2 hours cleaning the oil pan.I am really impressed. Welding aluminum in such a dirty environment and with such a big amount of "heat-sink"metal behind it is REALLY challenging. That could easily be a new oil pan. I noticed you did not show a picture of your weld before you applied the putty. Was it a good weld? You used a TIG setup right? I am asking because I would not have attempted this knowing the challenge of Al welding.
You are 100% correct I read and did my homework for sure thanks to you guys!! I did this job in my head about 5 times and made sure I ordered all the parts before I started this adventure. To be honest It was a very nice experience and I cant wait to do more work on the car!!Outstanding. That's what I call reading the forum and doing your home work. You didn't leave anything out. You were right in the zone mileage wise on the rod bearings from what we are finding out.
Use a lift!! I planned on doing it in my garage on jackstands but got a slot at a shop for a couple of days. There is no need to pull the subframe out!!Nice work and thanks for sharing. I have all the parts needed to do the rod bearings job, just need to find some free time to do it. I am definitely dragging my feet for sure.
I have tought about that but I only put 30 miles on the car so I'll run a tank like your recommendation which that means another 100 miles and I'll easy in to it. :M5rev:I don't see a need to break-in the rod bearings. Maybe just run a tank of gas and go easy on it to make sure no problems.