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Discussion Starter #1
Hello Everyone,


I'll try and be as brief as possible without leaving anything important out. I have a 2006 e60 M5, and thanks to info from this forum as well as jcolley, I was able to get it fixed my 4f67 smg fault code last June by replacing the slave cylinder, clutch, and flywheel.


One thing I noticed after getting the car back was when coming to a stop a yellow cog popped up with the message "transmission fail safe, please take to nearest BMW yada yada yada" but would go away shortly after it appeared. And it stopped altogether for about 6 months until last week when it popped up again. Then yesterday the debacle began. I put the car in R, then when I put in 1 gear, the car jolted like Id just been rear ended, and I was unable to get the car back in neutral to do anything. I did get it towed to my house with special wheel dollies and when home


I put the computer on it and went through the test schedule from the fault codes 4FA0, 510e, and 510d. The 510e/d test failed the first time but I did it again and they passed and stated not to replace the PLCD sensor.


Then the 4FA0 test schedule wasted to do transmission and clutch adaptations. The transmission adaptation completed but the clutch did not, stating engagement position outside tolerance, as well as displaying a red cog clutch adaptation active symbol.


Any idea what this could be? The slave cylinder was just replaced a year ago, but I tried to bleed both the slave cylinder and the actuator block with DIS and the slave cylinder failed saying "minimum stroke of slave cylinder not reached" and the actuator block never finished after waiting 30 minutes. Any guidance is greatly appreciated. Sorry if I broke any rules with this post. Its my first one.
 

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4FA0 was caused by the 510d/510e.

Those codes are caused by an interruption in the signals from/to the PLCD. Nothing else causes those.

No signal from PLCD -> no position information for clutch -> position deviation (4fa0)

Replace the PLCD and the 4fa0 will be gone. ;)
 

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Also verify your fluid reservoir is topped off after bleeding. It's not uncommon for the slave or block bleeding to fail the first few times as all the air is being purged. Just make sure it isn't sucking an air bubble now due to low level cavitating the pump suction.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thank you very much jcolley. I was thinking the same thing, but was confused when the software said the plcd sensor was good and not to change it. However, I just ran the test again and it now says "when activated , none of the signals of the PLCD sensor had a position difference of 332...371[increments]! This corresponds to a clutch travel range of 17.5...19.5[mm]" Im not real sure what all that means, but I'd guess it translates to what you said, replace the plcd sensor.


Also, isn't this sensor located on the slave cylinder? Will I need to drop the transmission all the way or will the 6 inches it lowers down be enough to do it? And will I need to replace any dowels by either procedure used to get to the plcd sensor.


Thanks again jcolley. To say you are a great asset to this forum is an understatement. I really appreciate your help.
 

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Also, isn't this sensor located on the slave cylinder? Will I need to drop the transmission all the way or will the 6 inches it lowers down be enough to do it? And will I need to replace any dowels by either procedure used to get to the plcd sensor.


Just have to lower the back of the transmission. You will need a 4mm allen on an extension to get the 2 bolts out holding the PLCD. Once loose you'll have to rotate the PLCD 180 degrees to enable it to slide back past the reservior vent.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Just to update my situation, i went ahead and replaced the plcd sensor but unfortunatwly that didnt resolve the problem. I was left no choice but to drop the transmission and i was shocked to find the slave cylinder torn up and also damage to the fork where it connects to the slave, as well as the ball pin crumbled to pieces. I was shocked because i just had this replaced less than a year ago along with the clutch and flywheel kit. Is this normal for the slave to have gone bad in less than a year. I don't do launch controls but i do drive the car like its an m5 with 500 horsepower and not like its a toyota corolla. I almost wonder if i bought a used slave that was advertised as being new .....now i have to buy another one along with fork, ball pin, and whatever else, is there anything else i should get? Thanks in advance. I hate my life. J/k
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Just to update, i got the 4FA0 smg fault code, and the reason was from a faulty slave cylinder, and this was also the cause of the inability to stop/delete the clutch adaptation active red cog along with the continuous beep. Keep in mind, this happened to be the cause for my situation and although your smg's behaviors may be similar to mine, that doesnt guarantee replacing the slave cylinder will remedy the situation. Once i receive the parts and re-install everything, ill update. Is anyone even reading this? Lol. Hope so.
 

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Good grief, did yo say you just had that slave cylinder replaced?

There is a parts warranty from BMW on that, I would claim that in a heartbeat. No doubt that was the cause.
 

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I am :). I also got that code recently lucky for me I did a bleeding procedure on the smg and the code never came back. I also had a shudder in 2nd gear which happened to be the throw out bearing. I replaced the clutch with bearing and all is good. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Thanks for the response jcolley. In order to make that claim, do you know what would i need to do? I bought the slave cylinder new last year in may, but i dont have the reciept from bmw. All i have is my credit card reciept.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Mcc,
thanks for the respose as well as confirmation someone was reading all this jibberish.
In your opinion, should i replace my throw out bearing? It was replaced a year ago in june. I took pics of it and attached them above. I dont remember how the bearing felt when it was new, but now it has grooves that feel similar to how a brake rotor would feel that needs to be cut or replaced.
As of now, I've only ordered a new slave, plcd sensor, folk, spring clip, and ball point.
Thanks in advance for any advice/help you or anyone else can give.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Really? Im a novice at this but are you saying to reinstall the throw out bearing backwards? If thats a dumb question, i apologize, but i really am confused
 

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I would install the brass pivot ball that Vincent sells at Bimmerzone. The white plastic one will not keep the original shape and wears down which changes the geometry and throw of the fork slightly. As cheap as the fork is, I'd buy new.
 

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I find it only wears down on one side of the inside of the sleeve so I meant to rotate it if you have to reuse it again. The bearing still needs to contact the pressure plate. Sorry for the confusion.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I find it only wears down on one side of the inside of the sleeve so I meant to rotate it if you have to reuse it again. The bearing still needs to contact the pressure plate. Sorry for the confusion.
wow. I feel like the jackass of the year. Of course you meant rotate it 180 degrees and not flip it 180 degrees. This is why this forum is so valuable. I am doing all this clutch/transmission crap for the second time and I would've had a better chance a seeing Santa Clause tonight than seeing these repairs done by myself had it not been for m5board and all you gosh dern geniuses!!!!


Thanks again all
 

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Discussion Starter #20 (Edited)
I would install the brass pivot ball that Vincent sells at Bimmerzone. The white plastic one will not keep the original shape and wears down which changes the geometry and throw of the fork slightly. As cheap as the fork is, I'd buy new.
Your absolutely right, I thought I took pics of mine, but in any case the one installed in mine was the white one and it was all crushed and when I pulled the fork off, the ball pin looked almost like a chewed up piece of Styrofoam (the kind that is used inside of shipping packages), so definitely getting the brass replacement from Vincent at bimmerzone. Thanks for the input B767capt.


I wonder if this ball pin being crushed was the root cause of the slave cylinder malfunction and everything else that has happened. Is that the most probable cause or is that highly unlikely? Because like I said before, the slave cylinder was barely a year old and was installed brand new with the new clutch/flywheel.
 
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