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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys. Yes I did use the search tool but I couldn’t find anyone with similar situation.. I bought a scan tool for the M5 just Incase i needed it in future.. got home from work today to scan car just to see if any underlying codes were going on..( no dash lights on the car as of now and never had a yellow or red cog). From what I can tell there Smg has been great besides the every now and then clunk people talk about and sometimes I think I switch gear but didn’t because I possible didn’t pull paddle hard enough(unless this is a symptom of the 4f40 code).. anyway I scan the car .. first scan nothing pops except restraint code which popped on my dash a week ago twice but hasn’t been back on the Idrive since that night and a couple other things like Bluetooth and rear window shade.. so I try to clear those codes because I’m trying to learn to use the scanner tool.. I clear them (i think) and rescan the car and the 4f40 code pops.. so I clear it (again, I think I cleared it) and go for a 20 minute drive.. come home scan again.. code still there.. again.. car has never popped itself into neutral or had any cogs since I’ve owned it.. had it 9 months and it’s just about to roll over to 97k. Don’t know the history on the car. Should I be scared to drive the car?? Thanks guys
 

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Drive on until it doesn't drive, to many nuisance codes. Just like the lame vanos test. Start with the relay, then the pump motor and the the SMG controls if you really want to get into it?
 

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Isn't 4F40 clutch position deviation? That usually points to clutch valve solenoid, specifically the rubber o-rings on it.

I haven't had that code come back since I've swapped the orings and the smg hydraulic fluid:
 

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4f40 is target pressure not reached.
4fA0 is clutch position deviation, which if set by itself usually means plcd.

If you don't get any cog errors then just drive it. I'd suspect your scanner is not clearing codes at all. With the ign switch on but engine not running you should see this code gone after clearing it.

You may want to check fluid level (google newtis). If fluid is good and code comes back you should see a cog error. Usually due to a smg pump motor in need of refresh/replace.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thank you all for replies.. coincidentally, I had it scheduled to service most of the fluids including transmission and SMG fluid. The next day when I took her to the shop she drove just like she normally does.. I asked the shop to check the status of the battery as well.. the shop is also cleaning my vanos solenoids.. I asked them to run a test on them before to see if they pass or not.

Also, does anyone have the Schwaben scan tool? It seems pretty straight forward and I was able to clear codes on my E39 540, but when I cleared codes on the M5 it would say clear code, I would press that, then the code would just pop right back up. Same spot.. thanks guys.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Quick update on the car.. so I didn’t mention in my last post but the night I got the Smg code I took the car on a long drive to Seattle and back. When I was in seattle I scanned the car and code was still there, turned car off. When I started it I got a red cog.. turned car off for 20 seconds, then back on and it was gone. I drove home, then like I said drove to shop next morning. No problem cogs, no problems.

car has been in shop for a week getting done the following: front brake kit, trans fluid, Smg fluid/bleed, diff fluid,Coolant flush, brake fluid flush, power steering, right front wheel bearing, and back window seal.. I asked them to run the codes after the Smg flush which I’m sure is a given...they said Smg code is still present but car didnt Act up while at the shop except for taking awhile for “the shifter to engage due to Smg priming” I’m not sure what they mean by that since I don’t think I’ve experienced that...

anyway. I think my plan is it just drive the car until I get the dreaded cog errors (probably get stranded).. if and when that happens I’ll just get the pump rebuild kit and have them throw it in.. any thoughts?? Thanks everyone.
 

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Always park it in N and use the parking brake, never leave it in P. Saves lots of grief if you ever get stuck with the red cog and need to have it towed. Also always keep a 10mm socket in the car so you can disconnect the battery if needed. From what I seem to have read it seems that also get rid of cogs temporarily. The previous owner of my SMG told me he's had to do that from time to time.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks for reply Gmtegear.. I usually throw it in gear when I park if on a hill.. but I won’t park on any hills for awhile I guess.. question.. if I have to unplug battery is it bad for car? Or could I be stuck with a bunch of other codes if I have to do that? Also how long do you think I got until i get stranded ? Lol, probably not something anyone can predict.. I’m down to rebuild the pump, but I’ve dumped over 5k over like 8 months doing all the preventative and maintenance so I’d like a little break to stack back up some cash lol.

PS, that bill probably would be cut in half if I did my own work, but I’m not experienced
 

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I've never been stranded but I only picked up my SMG a few months ago. When you command the lever to P it automatically puts the car in to gear. SMGs are really just manual transmissions, there is no other real way for the transmission to lock itself like an automatic trans. An auto trans has a "toothed" gear with a finger that locks in when you put it in P (technically it is called a parking pawl). It is a real mechanical lock that prevents the driveshaft from turning. Remember that manual cars can be parked on hills too. Just make sure your parking brake is adjusted and working properly, never a bad thing and you need it if you want to hoon anyways.

I don't drive any of my M5s in the winter. It is just chilling waiting for spring time when I can drop the trans. It is overdue for a new clutch, but I will replace the SMG motor. Unclear how the pump is holding up, I may tear that down, but the internal seals are hard to come by as I understand. You really need to diagnose the SMG issue properly otherwise you will throw alot of money at it. You are pulling codes so that's the first step. I think alot of folks will help you as much as they can but we all need to know the codes, if they are current or old ones, and then the symptoms you see.

There are just a ton of stories here and other places of people getting stranded with SMGs. I'm sure others that have more experience will chime in. I really have no clue how long, but I think it really helps to know that it can/will happen as some point and there are things you can do to either reset the module to hopefully get rid of the cog as well as not being in a situation where you can't get the vehicle out of "P" like when you need to have it towed. Disconnecting the driveshaft is not easy, you will have to lift the car, drop the exhaust, and then unbolt alot of tight bolts. Tow truck guy is not going to do that. I understand that dragging the car backwards up the flatbed with car in gear will spin the VANOS gears backwards which is a big NO-NO.
 

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Disconnecting the battery is not ideal but it won't hurt the car. The clock resets but there isn't any volatile memory that affects operation that I'm aware of.
 

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Drive on until it doesn't drive, to many nuisance codes. Just like the lame vanos test. Start with the relay, then the pump motor and the the SMG controls if you really want to get into it?
Replace the relay. The relay is under the passenger air filter in the E-box, it cost like $20. There is a write up in the DIY for the pump motor, you can buy a kit or just clean the motor like I did. If you get to controls you send it to Jim at FAMS for rebuild.

If it were my car I wouldn't be flushing fluids when I have a known problem. You are here so the information for you to survive an E60 M5 is available. If you are going to go to a shop you need to find a great one and have deep pockets. Get a cable and software from bimmergeeks and you can do all the testing you want for free. Then you can ignore the tests and wait for codes.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I only did all the fluids because I already had it planned. I wouldn’t even have know about the code if I hadn’t decided to buy my code reader which would be the same as the software you are talking about? It’s for BMW Rolls and mini and it Will let me preform the tests.
 

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When the red cog popped up did you pull the codes? It's important to know what that code was. It should still be in memory unless the shop reset it.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I didn’t pull codes right after the red cog because I didn’t want to kill the battery. I was 45 min from home. Like I said it popped and I turned car off right away, waited 20 seconds.. turned car back on cog was gone .. turned it back of because I had a girl in the car and we were talking....

the codes that have popped are

4F40
A0B4
And a battery related voltage code that I messed the pic up I took so I can’t see code.. And 2 others bluetooth A379
The one for back window shade and one about a tweeter

Will run codes again tomorrow when I pick her up
 

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Discussion Starter #16
quick update.. got the car back from the shop they said I’m still getting the SMG code and said buy the SMG pump kit will solve the issue. No cogs since I had it back and the car feels great.but I am getting the restraint and airbag faults popping on and off when I have a passenger so I brought the car back to shop today to have them code them out.

I was going to wait to have them coded out until I bought the Smg pump kit but I decided I’m just going to drive the car for another month or so since I have no cogs at this time.. what do you guys think?

Thank you
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I’m not sure where to find the SMG relay at.. can you provide part # and what does it do? Thanks Alan
 

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