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Discussion Starter #1
It is 2009 model with 30,000 miles. I just got the car recently, previous service history between 10,000 to current is not clear. I changed oil and sent sample to black stone, report shows lead and copper, should I replace the rod bearing immediately?

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9 qts make up oil? Why?

A few of us around here don't believe in BS for determining rod bearing health. They should be changed, end of story.
 

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9 qts make up oil? Why?

A few of us around here don't believe in BS for determining rod bearing health. They should be changed, end of story.
At 30k you've got time, but agreed on the oil analysis stuff ... it's just wasted money.
 

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9 qts make up oil? Why?

A few of us around here don't believe in BS for determining rod bearing health. They should be changed, end of story.
at 30K miles?? I haven't heard many on this board talk about using a 30K interval. I've seen 60K-75K as the more prevalent recommendation and general practice.
 

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Don't rely on Blackstone to make a decision as I don't believe anyone has proven empirical evidence that a Blackstone report really means anything when it comes to bearing longevity.
30K miles is awful low for a 2009. Do you know what brand of oil was in the sample you pulled? How many miles on the last change?
With this said, when in doubt change them.
If seeing copper in the report is a deciding factor for you, change them.
If you plan to keep the beast long term, change them.
But... don't do it based on a Blackstone report alone.
My 06 beast El Guapo bearing's were change at bit over 100K miles.
Personally, if in doubt (which it looks like you are) I would change out the bearings if you have the budget and want the peace of mind.
Otherwise drive it for a couple thousand miles and then pull the filter (of course do a fresh oil change and send off the Blackstone again if it makes you feel better), cut it open and look for particles.
If you see copper, park it until you can do the bearing change.
As Craze mentioned, I would be just as concerned about TAs.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
There are two problems that worried me and that's why I am asking:

1, When I pulled the filter out, I saw tiny metal spark in the oil at the bottom of the filter holder, I think it is brass. However, I did not see metal particles inside the filter itself, so I am confused here. I asked a friend and he said the only part that inside engine that contains brass is the rod bearing...

2, The black stone oil report said the oil sample is more like 5W-30 rather than 10W-60, the previous owner may have no idea how to maintain the car at all.

I think I will probably go ahead and buy the ACL bearings and change it after 3000 miles while next oil change is due. Should I get the standard one or the oversized one? (with +0.025 clearance).
 

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oh well - yikes, that does sound like a pretty good reason to do them earlier than normal. Because the 60K ish interval assumes proper oil and oil change intervals were followed and then you have no idea how the car was driven when cold either, and you just have to assume that an owner that stuck 5W30 in this engine doesn't know any better and won't be very cautious about hammering on the throttle when it's cold.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
And the clutch and throttle actuators and idle actuators and ig coils and fuel pumps
They can fail also
Changing clutch at 30K miles? I thought rod bearing is an easy DIY but clutch is not at all. Do you suggest me to pull the engine out and do PM at one time?
 

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Based upon your post #8, change the bearings..
BTW - This has been argued at length (search is your friend), but I prefer Liqui Moly 10-60. I will point out that I am in S. Florida where the beast hardly ever sees temps below 50 degrees, and even then it is only for a few hours.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Based upon your post #8, change the bearings..
BTW - This has been argued at length (search is your friend), but I prefer Liqui Moly 10-60. I will point out that I am in S. Florida where the beast hardly ever sees temps below 50 degrees, and even then it is only for a few hours.
I am doing a lot of modifications now, those cost much more than the value of the car itself. Looks like changing the bearings is the way to go. Thank you for the suggestion!
 

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Hell no you don’t need to change the bearings at 30k. Or anything else for that matter. Just drive it enjoy it. Drive it hard and change the oil. Changed mine at 80k and it didn’t need it. ‘07 with 130k daily driver fbo.
 

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I think the risk of a screw up in rod bearing DIY or using local mechanic is greater than the risk of bearing failure at 30,000 miles.

Please defer this decision till after you change oil and filter. Drive as hard as you can without getting arrested, better yet take it to the track when they open up again.
After 500 miles of hard driving check the filter and bottom filter housing, check again after 2000 miles if all OK, if no glitter you are good to go.

That is how i determined if i had a good motor or not.

I have seen 10-60 oil look like 5-30 after only 5,000 miles and had glitter in bottom of filter housing when used as a short trip only daily driver in the winter.

No sign of glitter after doing many 50 minute sessions running to 8,200 rpm at every gear change, 6.5 mpg track average (normal driving I get 19 mpg at 75 mph).
Burned no oil and runs better than when i got my m5 4,000 miles ago
 

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I think the Blackstone oil analysis is fine if you do a few of them, to establish a norm......then when you get one that is significantly different than the others you act accordingly
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Thanks all for the contribution. I think ticat928's suggestion to pretty good, pull the filter out by 2,000 miles then check for metal debris, maybe another blackstone report, that will give better idea. Maybe the oil I have drained was really old and bad so it may not tell the whole story.
 

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I assume you took the sample from the drain plug? Try taking it directly from the filter plug, expect higher readings. We do tons and tons of OA on ships, it only works if you establish a trend. You have the first now you can start the trend. Nothing is stopping you from taking a sample as frequently as you like say 500 miles, watch the trend. I have always been a BMW bum, I fix it when it needs it. If you have the money and are committed by all means go for it. I prefer a measured approach to service and repair it's really half the fun of owning the car. You are in the right place for information and advice. That year, that mileage I would do some more testing and watch the filter before I pulled the trigger on bearings. Drive it and enjoy it and if the worst happens spend the money and fix it.
 

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OP, listen my friend.
Do not get paranoid even before you enjoy your car
I assume you just bought your car.
You don't need any more of blackstone since the car produced in 2009 did not use the con-rod bearings with lead and copper. BMW changed the bearings from tri-metal bearings to aluminum tin bearings to meet EU regulation.
So, no more waste of money and time, and listen to what I say.
based on your mileage on the motor, you do not need any bearing replaced.
Bearing should be fine for now. The metal speckles you saw in the filter housing is probably related to the wrong grade of oil (5w-30) the previous owner put in to the motor before your ownership. but I am sure it seemed bronze only because of oil not because the metal itself is the piece of copper.
I assume you must burn hell a lot of oil revving a car using 5w30...crazy.
Put 10w60 right now, and let the car re-adapted to the change.
After the change of oil, DME must re-adjust the engine load during idle and other multiplication requires adaptation of about 300 miles.

DO NOT PUSH YOUR CAR WHILE YOU DO ADAPTATION.
GENTLE WITH YOUR CAR UNTIL YOUR CAR FINISH READAPTATION.

I am selling my m6 convertible btw, if you need headers to play around. I have a set from infinity design by sal.
I can hand you over evolve tune I purchased for the store credit but did not use. so let me know
my name is jayden
and btw welcome to the forum,
sometimes you need to bite a bullet to enjoy, my 2 cents bud
 
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