BMW M5 Forum and M6 Forums banner
1 - 20 of 56 Posts

·
Registered
2009 BMW E63 M6, Sapphire Black
Joined
·
577 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Decided to take on a suspension rebuild at 37K miles, after all, its 11 years old. Going to log some of it here, will just comment on the unusual things I'm finding, because I've done a full documentation of it already over here for the E60.


This started because control arm hydrobearings were looser than I want. Using Lemforder or BMW parts. Pulled the front right side off yesterday, found that wish bone bushing still seems strong, and the tie rod (inner and outer) still seems like they have plenty of life remaining. The ball joints on the control arms and wishbone are quite a bit looser than new. I've also cataloged where the parts are manufactured and will list that as well. Most of my time will be probably be spent cleaning parts. Its pretty easy job if you have the right tools. If you don't bother cleaning you can get the front done in a day or two.

Unlike my E60 (N62) - Didn't need to move the shock up to remove the control arm from the wheel bearing housing. Plenty of room. Another point of compare, I did my E60 at 82K miles. The tie-rods inner and outer were probably due to be changed at that miles. So, I'd venture a guess that with normal, spirited driving, our tie-rods are ready to be replaced somewhere between 50-80K, but you could probably get by longer, just depends on how tight you want your suspension to be.




942092
 
  • Like
Reactions: Fiftytwoeighty

·
Registered
2009 BMW E63 M6, Sapphire Black
Joined
·
577 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
More compares. This factory part is clearly marked TRW. Don't see that elsewhere.

942115

942116



942117


942118
 
  • Like
Reactions: Fiftytwoeighty

·
Registered
2009 BMW E63 M6, Sapphire Black
Joined
·
577 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)

·
Registered
2009 BMW E63 M6, Sapphire Black
Joined
·
577 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Having done this recently you have to remove the covers to get a torque wrench in there.
Got all the covers removed. I'm referring to the smaller control arm, #17 in the photo. where the bushing goes into the subframe. Can get a torque wrench on the bolt side, but not the nut side.

 

·
Registered
2009 BMW E63 M6, Sapphire Black
Joined
·
577 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Yeah same arm. Unless the M6 is different I had no issues with covers removed.
I haven't actually tried yet. will be sure to document if it is an issue. On my E60, I had no issues with this either.
 

·
Registered
2009 BMW E63 M6, Sapphire Black
Joined
·
577 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
My mind was playing tricks on me - chalk it up to garage fumes. It is the forward control arm that has the space issue. You have to remove the swaybar to get to the bolt. The swaybar bracket is in the way otherwise. Additionally, only a 3/8" torque wrench will fit in that space. Bring some muscles for the torquing of this bolt because the car must be at ride height. When removing this bolt, remove the 2 8mm screws from the air ducts so they have a little play. Otherwise the bolt will bump up against them.

942152


Sway bar factory sticker.

942153
 

·
Registered
2009 BMW E63 M6, Sapphire Black
Joined
·
577 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Just about done with the front, waiting on my 3/8" torque digital wrench to arrive so tension struts can be torqued to angle, can't get the 1/2" one in there.

A few more notes. I purchased the URO boot kit in order to get the o-ring for the steering rack. URO has stepped up their quality on these since I last purchased. Boots not as cheap and the large clamp seems to contain zinc, similar to the Lemforder and BMW clamp. The small clamp is still painted. I would use this boot, but did not, just the o-ring.

Here is a photo of the o-ring. BMW factory on left. Also shown is factory BMW small clamp (left) -vs- Lemforder. Didn't like the Lemforder clamp, too weak, re-used the factory clamp because of this.


942205
942206
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
1,396 Posts
Wow you’re buying another wrench to get to these? I know there’s stuff in the way but it can be removed. What exactly is blocking your access? I don’t recall having a major issue. A zoomed out picture would be helpful.
 

·
Registered
2009 BMW E63 M6, Sapphire Black
Joined
·
577 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 · (Edited)
Also decided to wire brush rust off the outside of bearing and paint so rust doesn't accumulate. While doing this, I noticed the front bearings seem to have a square air gap/drain hole on the outside, bottom. Not sure if that is actually an air gap, or if it gets covered inside. didn't look that close. Only painted the center of bearing, no where else, to ensure rotor mates up perfectly.

Those are the new Hawks Performance Ceramics tucked up under there. Looks forward to trying them out. Running Hawks HPS 5.0 on my E60. Called Hawks a few weeks back to ask them a few questions and they pointed me to these. They are fairly new and they said perform better, with no noise, and even less dust. Cant beat that!

942207
 

·
Registered
2009 BMW E63 M6, Sapphire Black
Joined
·
577 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Wow you’re buying another wrench to get to these? I know there’s stuff in the way but it can be removed. What exactly is blocking your access? I don’t recall having a major issue. A zoomed out picture would be helpful.
I don't have anything better than this photo. With the sway bar bracket on, you can't get anything in there. Put bracket on for photo to show clearance issue. With it off, the subframe is very close to the bolt. only enough room for a 3/8". 1/2" won't fit.

942208
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
1,396 Posts
I don't have anything better than this photo. With the sway bar bracket on, you can't get anything in there. Put bracket on for photo to show clearance issue. With it off, the subframe is very close to the bolt. only enough room for a 3/8". 1/2" won't fit.

ok on that side "right" side use conventional open/closed end wrench to get the NUT (6 point ideally if you have it, else use the open end side, I'd avoid 12pt), come at the BOLT from the left with your torque wrench and socket. I seem to recall the brake duct thing being in the way on the M5, not sure about M6. That can be removed very easily. Once that is out of the way you can get to the head of the bolt quite easily. I used my 1/2" FACOM thing with like a 6" extension. I had my bumper off anyways so that's another benefit since when these are assembled at the plant the bumper is not on the car yet, but the whole subframe and links are all done separately on a sub-assembly line. The links have to be loaded so sit the car down on some elevated stands like tree stumps or stack of cinder blocks etc to get the suspension loaded.
 

·
Registered
2009 BMW E63 M6, Sapphire Black
Joined
·
577 Posts
Discussion Starter · #17 ·
ok on that side "right" side use conventional open/closed end wrench to get the NUT (6 point ideally if you have it, else use the open end side, I'd avoid 12pt), come at the BOLT from the left with your torque wrench and socket. I seem to recall the brake duct thing being in the way on the M5, not sure about M6. That can be removed very easily. Once that is out of the way you can get to the head of the bolt quite easily. I used my 1/2" FACOM thing with like a 6" extension. I had my bumper off anyways so that's another benefit since when these are assembled at the plant the bumper is not on the car yet, but the whole subframe and links are all done separately on a sub-assembly line. The links have to be loaded so sit the car down on some elevated stands like tree stumps or stack of cinder blocks etc to get the suspension loaded.
not sure why, but I "feel" like torquing the nut is better, because you are trying to stretch the bolt. yes, duct is in way of removing bolt, but you could get torque wrench in there. Are you saying the links need to be on for the car to be at ride height when you torque these control arm bolts? Yes, having the car at ride height is a challenge w/o a four post lift. when/if I build my dream garage I will have one of those too!
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
1,396 Posts
Yes in general it’s better to torque the nut, when it is a bolt and nut joint, but in this case you have no access. Also there are equal and opposing forces.

no, the sway bar doesn’t need to be attached as long as the front is set down equally. You have a lift, it’s very simple to get the front to ride height. Find somethings for the front wheel to sit on as you lower the car on the lift. Bring the ground to the car not the car to the ground.
 

·
Registered
2009 BMW E63 M6, Sapphire Black
Joined
·
577 Posts
Discussion Starter · #19 ·
what is the rationale for having the car at ride height anyway?
 
1 - 20 of 56 Posts
Top