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Discussion Starter #1
Got the code for bank 2 tonight along with the idle actuator on the same side. Thoughts on rebuilding? Im worried that it wont just be the gears or mosfets and want to know how likely they fail after those rebuilds. Ordered a new unit already but considering getting rebuild kit and returning one or the other.
 

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Idle actuator I have not been able to find a rebuild kit for.
Ended up buying two new units. I did dismantle an old unit and didn't see a problem with the gears so assume it was something electronic that failed after 10 years hard service.

Throttle actuator, you can get a rebuild kit with new gears, I did mine whilst it was apart to swap the idle actuators, they're working well. Got the kit from this chap: https://www.rebuild.org.uk/
Careful tightening the actuator unit screws, seem to be made from chocolate.
 

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Ok so next morning before I started the car I checked and cleared codes. This time only generator com and TA bank 2 error popped up. After clearing nothing came back after driving around at temp etc. Still plan on checking the TAs this weekend but not sure what is going on anymore. Could an alternator cause TA problems?
 

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Oh when they first go, you can clear the codes and they'll run clean for a bit, then it'll come back later on, eventually getting worse over time as they continue to wear.
If you have ISTA available, you can run a test in there to check each IA or TA performance, it will report whether it is happy with the test values or not.
See if you get another error, if it comes back, consider replacing the gears inside on both whilst they're accessible.
From my experience, when one goes, the other will follow shortly.

I've previously had the voltage regulator in the alternator fail, causing voltage spikes, which threw up all manner of faults across all modules. It's a real WTF moment :LOL:
 

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You should not have to clear anything once repaired. This code does not get stored like those ghost codes. It should not appear upon start after replacement.

If these are the original TA’s consider $ we’ll spent. I replaced mine before car reached 60k miles. Some have done it as early as 20 and 30k miles.

There is a guy on this board who was selling rebuild units with warranty, but I never purchased one from him. I don’t have my e60 anymore although will most likely find one and make it new or buy s65 and dump it in my e46 M3. Bmw will never make crazy engines like this again specially high rpm N/A engines like the one in the e46, e9x or e60 or the beautiful S62
 

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Ok so next morning before I started the car I checked and cleared codes. This time only generator com and TA bank 2 error popped up. After clearing nothing came back after driving around at temp etc. Still plan on checking the TAs this weekend but not sure what is going on anymore. Could an alternator cause TA problems?
YES, this is a known issue. However, it’s not the actual alternator. It’s the voltage regulator that is part of the alternator and is sold as a separate part.

When the voltage regulator goes bad, the dash goes Christmas tree mode. Some experience this intermittently other have constant light show.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks for all the imput. I have already ordered a TA and Idle for bank 2 and plan on investigating this weekend. All leads so far point towards the voltage regulator as I haven't been able to check oil level either. Still going to check everything but previous owner did both TAs already and if some people have had VRs cause similar issues might as well start there.
 

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TA’s, voltage regulator, battery, bearings, Vanos solenoids, SMG are a weak point on this platform. Did I miss anything else? Lol.

But am awesome car though when everything works.
 

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Got the code for bank 2 tonight along with the idle actuator on the same side. Thoughts on rebuilding? Im worried that it wont just be the gears or mosfets and want to know how likely they fail after those rebuilds. Ordered a new unit already but considering getting rebuild kit and returning one or the other.
My bank 2 threw a code with associate limp mode at 87k miles. I replaced both with a rebuilt one from m motorsports. Runs great now!

Feel free to ask me any questions you may have regarding the process or ISTA.
 

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TA’s, voltage regulator, battery, bearings, Vanos solenoids, SMG are a weak point on this platform. Did I miss anything else? Lol.

But am awesome car though when everything works.
It's a complex car with a lot of electronics. Needless to say, if you can wrench on it (or learn to) it's a fantastic car. I bought it as my DD mostly because it was a great deal in the local area, so I picked it up. The original throttle actuator went out only 1k miles after purchasing, but I knew that it'd go eventually. The rebuilt ones were half the price of new ones and now my m5 is running like it should.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
So I checked over the TAs this afternoon and both feel smooth and unlike gear wearing. Waiting for the new Voltage regulator to arrive to see if problem goes away. Due to circumstances for the codes to show up I doubt the issue is the TAs. Also as previously stated both have been replaced before however it has been some time since. Will report back later.
 

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My VR crapped out earlier this year leaving town and I had to get it towed. F**ker. Luckily I was only 15 miles out of town and not in BFE middle of Texas that I had to go through.
 

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My VR crapped out earlier this year leaving town and I had to get it towed. F**ker. Luckily I was only 15 miles out of town and not in BFE middle of Texas that I had to go through.
What happened? Did your car go into limp mode?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Worse, it shut off while I was doing about 65, luckily there wasn't any traffic and I was able to coast down an exit ramp. IIRC, a few minutes prior I got the ABS light but it kept running ok. Then all at once a yellow cog, DSC error, and poof. That was at about 100k. The VR should be deemed a regular maintenance item after 75k or so, similar to the clutch slave cylinder.
 

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Worse, it shut off while I was doing about 65, luckily there wasn't any traffic and I was able to coast down an exit ramp. IIRC, a few minutes prior I got the ABS light but it kept running ok. Then all at once a yellow cog, DSC error, and poof. That was at about 100k. The VR should be deemed a regular maintenance item after 75k or so, similar to the clutch slave cylinder.
Damn, please provide the VR part number and location if you can. Im at 93k now and drive the m5 hard as much as I can lol.. and occasionally take long family trips with it - will be going up to Maine with it from DC in the spring. I want to do it at the same time as the fuel filter..
 

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Here's what I got..alot of other folks too.
There's a good DIY about the swap but I don't have time to look for it right now. Even on a lift, I still couldn't get that bastard top clip to release (you'll see when you view the DIY) and had to get some help. Everything cleared up after the swap.
 
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